"" Carb problem maybe? - Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 7:11 AM Thread Starter
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Carb problem maybe?

Yesterday I was ridding and when I wanted to accelerate suddenly like I lost the power at 6k rpm and engine changed noise-typical syndrom of out of fuel or tank vent problem. I switched to reserve just in case and stopped. Bike was working on idle but little lower. Then I switch off. Checked fuel, then start it and still it wasnt rev good for a few seconds then it was all fine and I went home. Same day, I started it and got poor reving, turn it off, started again witch choke and it was working fine again.

-I pulled off those 2 rubber disks from vent cap last year so that isn't a problem. I checked a tank vent and that air line isnt cloged.

-I would check petcock, but I doubt thats the problem. I have repair gaskets for it so I ll do it.

- I suspect on the carburetor. But I can't do the cleaning on my own, and I can't send it for cleaning at this moment and probably not soon enough. What can I do with it on the bike? Can I at least check main jet and try to clear it with a string and little spray? Any other tips?
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 9:47 AM
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year and mileage always good info to provide

bike stored outdoors?

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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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year and mileage always good info to provide

bike stored outdoors?
Its 1996, 50.000kms. I have it for 9 years but didnt ridden more than 14.000kms. Bike is stored in garage for 6 years, last 3 years is under the roof and covered.
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 10:55 AM
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keyboard diagnosis from afar always a crapshoot....

You are in the US?

its possible ethanol fuel has bitten you
if you don't already...use Stabil 360 ethanol treatment 1/2 oz per tankful

For your specific condition, consider purging your fuel (including draining the floatbowls) , fill fresh with the 360 added. Give it a tankful or so, see if any improvement (or not) and reevaluate from there.

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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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keyboard diagnosis from afar always a crapshoot....

You are in the US?

its possible ethanol fuel has bitten you
if you don't already...use Stabil 360 ethanol treatment 1/2 oz per tankful

For your specific condition, consider purging your fuel (including draining the floatbowls) , fill fresh with the 360 added. Give it a tankful or so, see if any improvement (or not) and reevaluate from there.
No Im from Serbia/South east Europe.

Problem started when I filled new fuel on the gas station. But I always filling there and using same fuel with aditives (best one they have).

Could be rust from the tank I ll check everything in a day or two. I ll try with some carb cleaning aditive-like Seafoam which you have there in US. Ill drain the floatbowls as I suggesting and open the carb covers to see if theres some crap there.

I would be 100% sure that its valve cap if I didnt remove those orange discs before...
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 12:42 PM
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Fuel filter?

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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 2:06 PM
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It may be you've gotten a batch of bad fuel... maybe with some water in it. It happens sometimes.

Drain the fuel bowls... although I'm not a huge believer in it... add some Seafoam to tank. Ride that tank out and see if it gets any better.

And just for kicks and giggles... have you checked your battery's condition with a load test lately?
A failing battery can cause some issues that seem like the carbs but it's actually the ignition not being able to fire.
Just a thought anyway.

O_E_M
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 2:26 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel filter?
I dont have it. I know its bad but I cant find that simple slip on from zxr6 here. Ill try.
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 2:29 PM Thread Starter
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It may be you've gotten a batch of bad fuel... maybe with some water in it. It happens sometimes.

Drain the fuel bowls... although I'm not a huge believer in it... add some Seafoam to tank. Ride that tank out and see if it gets any better.

And just for kicks and giggles... have you checked your battery's condition with a load test lately?
A failing battery can cause some issues that seem like the carbs but it's actually the ignition not being able to fire.
Just a thought anyway.

O_E_M

Didnt checked battery , its not brand new but its working and starting bike fine. Before few years I was driving for some time with battery that had 7.5Ah instead 14 and I didnt have this problem.
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 2:40 PM Thread Starter
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Can you give me numbers for checking out battery? How to test it
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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 2:40 PM
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In an emergency situation I've actually started and ridden mine using a 5Ah battery. And it did fine too.... But.... when my factory battery had begun to fail... I could get the bike fire most times and idle... and ride. But trying to get on the throttle it would go to bucking like it was running out of fuel. The battery just didn't have enough to keep up with the ignition demand.

Just a thought that you may want to check it, just to 100% eliminate it from causing any of the problem.
I think you may have just picked up some trash or bad fuel though.

And the filter you want is for the ZZR, not the ZX6.

O_E_M
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 2:43 PM Thread Starter
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Is this test ok?
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/faqs.php?action=1&id=30

Ill try to get voltmeter and test it.

We dont have that late ZZR model in Europe
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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 2:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toniplavna View Post
Can you give me numbers for checking out battery? How to test it
Sure.
You need a volt meter. A digital multi-meter or analog one.
Set it to read DC voltage.
Check the standing voltage of battery with ignition off. Should be at least 12.5 volts.

Then, with the meter still attached to battery, watch the meter's reading as you are starting the bike.
If the voltage drops below 10.5 volts while the starter is spinning, then the battery's load voltage is too low.

While engine is running, rev and hold to 4k RPM.
The meter should read around 13.5-14.5 volts.
If much lower or higher then you most likely have a problem with the regulator.

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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 2:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toniplavna View Post
Is this test ok?
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/faqs.php?action=1&id=30

Ill try to get voltmeter and test it.

We dont have that late ZZR model in Europe
You replied with this as I was typing my last reply.
Yes, their test is pretty close.
But 9.5 volts while starting is too low for our bike.
Needs to be no lower than 10.5.

Oh... well you can still order the ZZR filter though.
Not that expensive. Should be less than $10 US.

O_E_M
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 2:52 PM Thread Starter
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Ok Ill check it in a few days and write the results.
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 3:36 PM
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easy fuel filter ALTERNATIVE....YES!
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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 3:55 PM Thread Starter
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Saw that ducatiman, thanks

Also about batteries. I had bad and semi-bad batteries before, especially on the cars and never had problem with idling or running. So when you already cruising on your bike, shouldnt alternator produce all the power? Whats the role of the battery?
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-19-2017, 7:20 PM
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I going with no filter = crap in the pilot circuit /carb, even an in line filter is better than nothing.

It doesn't take much to mess up the carbs as far as dirt goes.

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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-20-2017, 2:27 AM
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The role of our battery is to first start the engine.
Then the battery actually powers everything once it's running.
The alternator does provide power but in an indirect way.

Power from the alternator flows up to the rectifier, which converts the power from AC to DC, then the regulator steps the voltage down to the usable range... around 14 volts average.
That power then flows to the battery.
The battery then powers everything.

All the lights and ignition system take their power directly from the battery whether the engine is running or not.
When the engine is running, as the lights and ignition uses the battery's power, the regulator monitors the battery's voltage and kicks in as needed to maintain the battery's charge level to be able to restart the engine and keep a constant supply for everything to operate.

If the battery's voltage drops below a certain point because it's failing and cannot accept the power coming from the alternator while the engine is running, the ignition coils literally can't provide enough current to fire the spark plugs reliably... because the battery is unable to provide the coils with the power they demand.

tl;dr
Our bike works slightly different than a vehicle..... Have you ever had a vehicle that the alternator has stopped putting out any power?
The vehicle is then running off of nothing but the battery... until the battery goes dead.
Cars use their battery just to start, then the alternator takes over to power everything.
Our bike uses the battery to power everything and the alternator just keeps it charged as the power is used.

O_E_M
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Last edited by one_evil_monkey; 3-20-2017 at 2:30 AM.
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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-20-2017, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for detailed answer.


@Ghost. Well I know but Im the real proof or just lucky for using it without filter for 9 years. Gas tank has rust also and I never had any problems with the carbs or petcock cuz of it. (Till now, maybe). So I guess the filter in the tank on petcock is doing pretty good job, but having fuel one is bonus
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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-20-2017, 12:24 PM
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NP

I should have a rail filter, just because it's always a good idea....
However, after 12 years with the EX... I still don't.
It's got the factory petcock filter and that's it.
But... my tank is rust free... so... ya know, that makes a difference. Haha

O_E_M
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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-20-2017, 1:40 PM
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^ sure....until your fuel line decomposes from the inside out, spewing sand like specks of rubber in through the entry point of the rail....directly into needles/seats. Haha.

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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-20-2017, 3:29 PM Thread Starter
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I contacted the dealer of kawasaki here for that filter and they said: we dont have it stock, need to order it and we dont know the price xD
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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-20-2017, 5:28 PM
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US retail is around $5...but must factor inbound shipping to the dealer. Not a lot of $ , and unless torn or damaged, should last indefinitely.

You understand it presses into the black fuel rail nipple, right? The media is very similar to that of the petcock screens....super duper fine synthetic nylon mesh built on a nylon frame....tiny.

Fully understandable it wouldn't be in stock at a dealer, kind of obscure and obsolete these days...hopefully will come in before your fuel line rots.
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File Type: jpg railfil2.jpg (103.8 KB, 8 views)

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post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old 3-20-2017, 5:32 PM Thread Starter
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Should check those lines too
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