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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-15-2017, 4:34 PM Thread Starter
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Post Carb Cleaning Problems.

So I just acquired an ex500 about 2 weeks ago. It wouldn't run without choke so I did some research and found the carbs might be dirty. I took apart the carb (per the manual here) and it was dirty af. Dirt in the bottom of the bowl, clogged jets etc. So I cleaned it thoroughly and put it back on the bike along with a new stock air filter (old one was shot). Now it will run without choke. The problem is it's popping at idle, not backfiring so to speak but I don't know another way to describe it besides "popping". When it does pop each time you can see the idle fluctuate. Another problem I'm having is it just randomly cuts off at idle. And the only way to get it to run is to put full choke on and when I do that it sails up to 5K RPM and stays there. If I take the choke back off it dies immediately. I'm stumped.


Here's a video I did before it died:

Last edited by JusticeMaster; 5-15-2017 at 4:37 PM.
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-15-2017, 4:50 PM Thread Starter
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One thing I forgot to mention is I set the idle mixture to 2 turns.

*EDIT* I let it sit about 20 minutes and it started up without choke but still has the popping.

Last edited by JusticeMaster; 5-15-2017 at 5:00 PM.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-15-2017, 5:03 PM
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before pointing fingers at your carb clean...the pop almost sounds like a random electrical misfire...have you removed the innards and cleaned the inside of the spark plug caps? Assured the wires are sound (especially at the ends)

AFA the stalling...after you square away the misfire...reset the pilot screws, each side, for highest idle and response.....the "sweet spot" on each side will, no doubt, differ.

Of course, my comments wouldn't be complete without asking...the bike being new to you (mileage is impertinent) have you performed the much dreaded valve clearance check yet? So important to make these buggers run really well. This "resets" the maintenance schedule...a PO generally can't be fully trusted when he states...oh, yeah, the bike was "fully gone over". So I'd strongly suggest a valve check.

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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-15-2017, 5:17 PM Thread Starter
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before pointing fingers at your carb clean...the pop almost sounds like a random electrical misfire...have you removed the innards and cleaned the inside of the spark plug caps? Assured the wires are sound (especially at the ends)

AFA the stalling...after you square away the misfire...reset the pilot screws, each side, for highest idle and response.....the "sweet spot" on each side will, no doubt, differ.

Of course, my comments wouldn't be complete without asking...the bike being new to you (mileage is impertinent) have you performed the much dreaded valve clearance check yet? So important to make these buggers run really well. This "resets" the maintenance schedule...a PO generally can't be fully trusted when he states...oh, yeah, the bike was "fully gone over". So I'd strongly suggest a valve check.
After I read your reply I went to check the seat of the caps and as soon as I pulled on the caps, the wire came OUT of the left cap as I was pulling on the plastic....so theres a potential fix.

One of the first things I did to the bike was checked the valves because I know you can have valve issues if they are out of spec and everything seemed ok with the clearance.

I'll order a new set of coils tonight and see if that fixes it.
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-15-2017, 5:36 PM
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"I'll order a new set of coils tonight and see if that fixes it"

coils? as in ignition coils? huh?

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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-15-2017, 5:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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"I'll order a new set of coils tonight and see if that fixes it"

coils? as in ignition coils? huh?
The spark plug wires....sorry my motorcycle lingo is not up to par lol
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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So the plug wire fixed the popping issue but now I have another problem. It was running ok this morning but as I let it warm up it would start dieing and will only crank with full choke on. But now also it idles up and down like this:


No throttle input at all just full choke on.
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 2:44 PM
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***choke abuse ...you only use choke to enable starting.and immediate warmup until the bike is capable of idling on its own....

so the whole vid was taken on full choke revvin its nuts off? and when you turned it off at the end of the vid, idle was low? So readjust the idle to 1200 warm....how does it run there? One step at a time. Check you vac hoses too...are they placed properly?
Tight? No splits?





*** yeah, yeah we all know its really an enrichenor...

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 2:48 PM Thread Starter
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***choke abuse ...you only use choke to enable starting.and immediate warmup until the bike is capable of idling on its own....

so the whole vid was taken on full choke revvin its nuts off? and when you turned it off at the end of the vid, idle was low? So readjust the idle to 1200 warm....how does it run there? One step at a time. Check you vac hoses too...are they placed properly?
Tight? No splits?





*** yeah, yeah we all know its really an enrichenor...
It won't start without it though. As I type this now, it won't start at all even with it. Looking at the fuel filter and it's full so I know its getting gas. I'm checking the lines now. I will say I did replace the fuel line with longer hoses because the hose before I replaced it was quite short and kept getting pinched.
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 3:01 PM Thread Starter
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Is there such a thing as too long of a fuel line? I have it routed going to the front of the carb up to the left to the gas tank. Probably about a foot total. I was thinking that the fuel would be pushed by the petcock to the carb. Am I wrong in assuming that?
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 3:22 PM
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yes. too short or too long, caused by an inline filter installation can def be problematic. The beauty of the Kaw rail filer is it employs the stock length and stock routeing of the original hose.

If the tank is clean, rust & debris free...the rail filter is all you need. If the tank is, in fact, contaminated...the petcock and carbs will need review...along with dealing with the source...the tank...once and for all.

Does the petcock have the inlet screens present?

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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 3:26 PM Thread Starter
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yes. too short or too long, caused by an inline filter installation can def be problematic. The beauty of the Kaw rail filer is it employs the stock length and stock routeing of the original hose.

If the tank is clean, rust & debris free...the rail filter is all you need. If the tank is, in fact, contaminated...the petcock and carbs will need review...along with dealing with the source...the tank...once and for all.

Does the petcock have the inlet screens present?
I just went and purchased a new petcock. It doesn't have the vacuum line though, so I know I'll have to switch it to off everytime I turn off the bike. The stock one looks terrible. Almost rusted and the smell thats coming off of it is horrific. I'll see if I can route one line that goes straight
down to the rail without it kinking. The old one did have a screen for the on position but not one for the reserve position.
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 3:27 PM
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re-reading, a foot is too long. stock is abioiut 8 3/4 inch....ready the alternative fuel filter in the stick section

PS I've got them in stock, routinely install them within my refurb service.

sounds like you've got multiple issues going on...

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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 3:33 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, trying to solve them one at a time. The bike was in terrible shape when I got it.
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 3:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
re-reading, a foot is too long. stock is abioiut 8 3/4 inch....ready the alternative fuel filter in the stick section

PS I've got them in stock, routinely install them within my refurb service.

sounds like you've got multiple issues going on...
embarrased...lets try READ the alternative fuel filter in the carb sticky section. There are many, many folks using it, tried, tested and true.

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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 3:42 PM Thread Starter
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If this fails I may get you to do a service on it for me. I've heard your carb cleaning skills are excellent.
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 4:29 PM
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ty, I stand at the ready if need be. My modern equipment does a helluva job. In the interim...give it a shot.

Note I have, in stock... carb kits, rail filters, orings, salvage parts, new aftermarket diaphragms (mounted on cleaned, salvaged slides), stainless or stock hardware... refurbed carbs or service yours....various options and virtually anything needed carb-wise.

Please utilize and support my services as a known, trusted vendor (and long time member) here...as opposed to strangers on ebay.

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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 5:59 PM Thread Starter
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Well, looks like shortening the fuel line did the trick, the bike is idling well with good throttle response. Thanks for the help ducatiman. I think I now have a stator or a regulator/rectifier problem now though. I'm sorting through the forum as we speak for that one.
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 6:17 PM
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charging output voltage issues?

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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 6:19 PM Thread Starter
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Indeed. 11.4V at idle and 11.7V at 5K RPM
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 6:25 PM
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disconnect the stator from its harness....the bike will still run, though on "total loss", but just for a few minutes anyway.

set your voltmeter to AC <100v

There are 3 terminals on the stator output harness...read (at 4K or so) between 1 and 2, 2 and 3 , 1 and 3. Stator should be putting out around 60AC volts in each leg. This is best done with bike up to operating temp on the gauge...in other words...warm.

What 3 readings do you get on this standalone stator output test?

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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 6:51 PM Thread Starter
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Where is the wire harness where it comes out? Cant seems to trace it. Also, where is the rectifier located?
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-18-2017, 7:04 PM
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looking at the stator cover, the upper right. 3 yellow wires, IIRC. Unplugged, you are reading between the 3 leading to the stator.

The rr is under the LH side panel, but please concentrate on stator output first (its the worst case scenario within the charging system)

If its' ok, we move on

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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-19-2017, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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33 to 35VAC on all 3 connections at 4500 RPM. Time for a new stator I guess. Should I replace the R/R while I'm at it?
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 5-19-2017, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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I just re-read your post and you said to check with both leads on the stator wires, I went back and did that and on all 3 it gives me a reading of OL for all test. The first test I did was the black wire on the battery ground and the red on each of the 3 stator wires.
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