Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: knocking noise in engine and loss of power  (Read 4205 times)
styxnsk1n
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 6


« on: September 02, 2012, 06:31:10 PM »

Hello, I am new to this forum. I have owned my 2006 500 since day one and i have never had any issues with the engine. Current mods include K&N air filter, sarachu exhaust, dynojet stage 3 kit, and EBC kevlar race clutch. Today  the engine started knocking while i was riding and I lost power big time. I pulled over right away to examine. Im not leaking any oil, and my sight glass shows it isnt low on oil. Sounds if a rod bearing/bushing has gone bad and i lost power big time. There wasnt any smoke coming from my exhaust. Most recent mod was replacing the clutch, and that was about 2k miles ago. I have a total of 17k miles. And I have been using Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50 since day uno with a WIX filter. My dad wants to go the rebuild route right away. So i started searching the internet for answers and I came across this forum. I dont know why I havent came across this site before lol. SO if anyone can point me into a right direction i would greatly appreciate it. I really dont want to buy a salvage engine. Price does not matter to me. This bike has been through hell and back with me and I dont wanna give her up. SO please help!
Logged
EX-500.com
Advertisement
2WheelMax
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 568


« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2012, 08:49:47 PM »

You didn't say if it was over revved or anything.   
Logged
styxnsk1n
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 6


« Reply #2 on: September 02, 2012, 09:37:59 PM »

ive never hit over 11k before .. i usually shift around 9.5k tops whenever i decided to open it up on the highway ... but when it started "knocking" today .. I was going around 35mph
Logged
moped
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1033


« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2012, 04:49:06 AM »

20W-50 is also too thick an oil for normal use in the 500. With it the engine is not getting proper lubrication when it is cold and it could cause excessive wear. See oil chart in WIKI for recommend oil viscosity. 10W-40 is optimal for most conditions.
« Last Edit: September 03, 2012, 04:52:23 AM by moped » Logged
rayycc1
Post Whore Superstar
******
Offline Offline

Location: Harmony Pa.
Posts: 8307


FTW = Forever Two Wheels


« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2012, 06:14:38 AM »

I don't understand the question? if its knocking its knocking so...you either have to get a salvage motor or...you need to rip it apart and put a bearing in it. If you are not 100% sure of your mechanical abilities ...and do not have access to a machine shop...you need to find another motor . If your not a pro wrench...you're not going to be able to fix it.
Logged

If it floats...flys...or f*cks...its cheaper to rent it.
FloridaEX500
Post Whore Superstar
******
Offline Offline

Location: Lake Mary, Florida
Posts: 11080



« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2012, 06:17:32 AM »

I scored a beautiful gen 2 engine with 4 k miles for $150 on craigslist.  I highly doubt you could rebuild one  for that especially if you have a bad crank bearing. These engines are not worth rebuilding in most cases. But there's people here that can help you if you insist.

Your first goal is to determine if your engine problems are fatal,  this may include a compression check and turning over by hand.
Logged
styxnsk1n
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 6


« Reply #6 on: September 03, 2012, 08:06:05 PM »

well i have pin pointed the problem today... being that the engine cranks fine and runs without any help, does not smoke, and has oil rerouted me away from thinking it was a rod knocking or any other major engine part failure. i decided to check my spark plugs... i took out cylinder #2 plug first and the electrode and arch were totally blown out of the plug ...cylinder #1 plug still had electrode and arch, but were pretty much at the end of their lifespan. i replaced them about 9k miles ago. people have told me today that i should replace my plugs every oil change. does anybody on here agree? but i also wonder, electrodes just dont normally blow out of a plug. something caused it to happen. anybody have any ideas? ..luckily the plugs were still under warranty through oreillys and ill get a new pair tomorrow. they are NGK Iridium X .. is there anybody that uses these plugs ever run into a problem with them?
Logged
exer
Sponsoring Member
Post Whore Superstar
*****
Offline Offline

Location: SE PA
Posts: 3627



« Reply #7 on: September 03, 2012, 08:10:15 PM »

I would go with stock plugs. 
Logged
moped
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1033


« Reply #8 on: September 03, 2012, 11:06:33 PM »

I would ask the dealer what plugs they recommend. I know some plugs are not always temp compatible. The way I read your response it sounds like parts of the plug broke off and are rattling around the combustion chamber.
« Last Edit: September 03, 2012, 11:08:35 PM by moped » Logged
styxnsk1n
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 6


« Reply #9 on: September 04, 2012, 11:04:24 PM »

yah.. i put the new plugs in today and shes all better.. ill call kawasaki tomorrow and see what plugs the recommend.. thanks everybody for the help!
Logged
jrm_2011
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 15


« Reply #10 on: October 05, 2012, 01:05:25 PM »

Did you ever hold the throttle in one spot?
Logged
Apriliarider
Post Whore Superstar
******
Offline Offline

Location: NorCal
Posts: 5564


more bikes than I can ride at once....


« Reply #11 on: October 05, 2012, 01:34:59 PM »

well i have pin pointed the problem today... being that the engine cranks fine and runs without any help, does not smoke, and has oil rerouted me away from thinking it was a rod knocking or any other major engine part failure. i decided to check my spark plugs... i took out cylinder #2 plug first and the electrode and arch were totally blown out of the plug ...cylinder #1 plug still had electrode and arch, but were pretty much at the end of their lifespan. i replaced them about 9k miles ago. people have told me today that i should replace my plugs every oil change. does anybody on here agree? but i also wonder, electrodes just dont normally blow out of a plug. something caused it to happen. anybody have any ideas? ..luckily the plugs were still under warranty through oreillys and ill get a new pair tomorrow. they are NGK Iridium X .. is there anybody that uses these plugs ever run into a problem with them?
That sounds like a plug with too high a heat range was used. The EX doesn't need iridium plugs. They're much lower resistance than the stock plugs and that can cause problems. No, electrodes don't normally blow out of plugs. Ever. If they have, then they melted because the heat range was too high. Normally you can go up or down one heat range from the stock plug without doing any damage. Too low a heat range and the plug will foul. Too high and it can detonate like yours appear to have. Click the link:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/p2.asp

If the ground electrode is gone....then maybe the plugs are too long for your application. If the threaded shank allows you to thread them in too far they can be hit by the piston and damaged.

Plugs don't need to be replaced often at all. Maybe 40 years ago, sure. These days, not so much. I did the ones in my Aprilia shortly after I got it because I didn't know what was in there already. If I'm going through the trouble to remove them, may as well replace them. My old Gixxer, which is carbureted and has a stage III jet kit installed only needed a plug change once in 60K miles. The other bikes in my garage? Never changed the plugs in them at all. When I went to GM's training center, we were told that the modern engine doesn't require a spark plug change until 150K miles. Why? Because of the technology. The engineers determined that they needed XX,000 volts per plug to prevent them from deteriorating. The figure, if I remember it right was 60,000. Today, with individual coils for each plug, they're getting that. BTW, that training I went to? Over ten years ago.

Being that motorcycles most often have a single coil for each plug, the same principle applies. If things start running poorly, then sure, change the plugs. If it runs and doesn't have issues then the plugs are probably okay. I figure a bike, not being as sophisticated computer wise as a modern car a partial tune up every 35 or 40K is probably about right. Even then, if it's not running poorly, then wait until it does............sean
« Last Edit: October 05, 2012, 01:40:52 PM by Apriliarider » Logged

FOG
FOG
Post Whore Superstar
*****
Offline Offline

Location: North Central Arkansas
Posts: 16015

DO not send me PMs such messages will be dumped. E


« Reply #12 on: October 05, 2012, 03:36:36 PM »

Comparing other Motorcycles to the EX with regards to Plug life is comparing apples and oranges. The problem with EX plugs is not the plugs, but the ignition system that's firing them. Basically it's very weak and barely able to jump a .025 gap.  iridium plugs are a good choice for this engine, as the small electrode doesn't radius as large and continues to fire the same resistance rate for a longer time ,but yes they don't blow out .
   There must be some other reason for the plug damage. Possibility a defective plug. but I doubt it. Describe the condition of the plug better or a picture would be best. Changing plugs often is a good Idea but not every oil change. Certainly clean the insides of the plug boots and the plug insulators every change, new plugs at 7-10 K for sure
  You haven't forgotten to install a washer have you or used a different plug length.

FOG
Logged

I hate PMs if you want to contact me, find my email address.
Apriliarider
Post Whore Superstar
******
Offline Offline

Location: NorCal
Posts: 5564


more bikes than I can ride at once....


« Reply #13 on: October 05, 2012, 06:43:26 PM »

According to the NGK website, the proper iridium plug for the EX500 is a DR9EIX with the gap set at .028. It lists the standard plug as a DR9EA with the same gap measurement. This is for all years of EX500, both 49 state and CA versions. OP, is that the part number you are using or no? A DR8EIX would be one heat range higher. Any number lower than that is too hot. A DR10EIX would be one heat range colder. Also, there are a number of other plugs that will thread in, but as indicated previously, if the threaded shank is too long, you'll thread it right into the combustion chamber and risk hitting the piston crown......sean
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK_HeatRanges.pdf

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK_LaserIridium_vs_Iridium%20IX.pdf

Logged

John1994
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Location: West Midlands, England
Posts: 11


« Reply #14 on: November 04, 2012, 02:00:21 PM »

I aint trying to be stupid but i had a similar problem, your external symptoms are identical to mine. my exhaust was loose at the manifold on the right piston, gas was escaping and igniting making a knock sound from sitting atop the bike, also accounted for the power drop
Logged
zombitch
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 15


« Reply #15 on: November 04, 2012, 03:35:26 PM »

john1994 has a good point i had a fairly similar problem with a bad knock and no power on my 94 it was a bad carb boot never noticed it when buying the bike but it was cut halfway around the bottom made it run real lean popped my plug and was running on one cylinder the knock was the dead cylinder detonating good luck
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to: