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Universal Digital Speedometer : "The Ebay Special"

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84K views 28 replies 13 participants last post by  lukedemes  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I recently installed a universal digital speedometer on my EX500 streetfighter build. This speedometer came in a box of parts included with my bike when I bought it, but it seems to be identical to many of the same models found on ebay and aliexpress, see the following link for example:





http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016...cycle-MotorBike-F1-2-4-Cylinders/32622056831.html?spm=2114.40010308.4.92.tMCxdQ

.... You get the picture. There's a ton of these things for sale and they're dirt cheap. I was considering getting an acewell or trailtech gauge, but these things are a fraction of the price.

So far it seems pretty sweet. It's easy to read in a variety of lights, the tach seems accurate, the indicator/neutral/hi/lo lights all seem to work well. Also despite being a cheap ebay product, I've ridden in the rain a number of times and it hasn't fried yet!

The downsides: On a functionality front, it lacks an oil pressure warning and coolant temp gauge. I hooked up the fuel level gauge to the coolant temp wire from the bike's harness and the resistance is wrong so it reads incorrectly. I am working on finding the proper resistance to run to make it more accurately display coolant temperature. The speed is time averaged (as it should be) but the sampling time seems to be a bit large so there is some lag in changing the display.

From an installation point of view, it comes from china, with little to no instructions or technical support available. I tried contacting a seller on ebay for a wiring diagram or programming instructions and I got very broken instructions that appear to have come out of google translate. It also requires a custom mount, as well any other aftermarket speedometer, and you need to mount a hall effect sensor and magnets to get the digital speedometer to work.

Wiring The Speedometer:

After finding a sample wiring diagram on an aliexpress sales page, as well as some trial and error, here is the wiring I came up with.

The first thing I did was clip the connectors off of the unit, as they don't fit the kawasaki harness anyways. I crimped on some butt connectors to play around with different wiring. I also removed the bike harness's gauge connectors and crimped on butt connectors. Leave the halll effect sensor connector as is, since you will want to use that later.

Speedometer:

Light Blue - Right Signal
Brown - Low Beam
Orange - Left Signal
Black - Ignition
Green/Black - Ground
Blue/White - Fuel Level (Connect this to the coolant temp line on the bike harness)
Dark Blue - High Beam
Purple/Black - RPM
Yellow/White - Neutral Indicator
Red - Connect this directly to the positive terminal of your battery. This is the "memory" supply to the unit. If you disconnect this, then all the settings that you program into the dash will be reset (ie. wheel circumference, odometer, etc)

The other wires are for gear indicators, which the EX500 is not equiped with. I clipped these wires and electrical taped them to keep them out of the way.

Bike Harness:
Blue with thin red stripe - Oil pressure light (this isn't able to be plugged into the gauge, so just cut it and tape it to the harness for the time being)
Dark Green - Left Signal
Grey - Right Signal
Red/Black - High Beam
Red with thin blue stripe - low beam (this is referred to as the "meter light" on the EX500 wiring diagram)
Light Green - Neutral indicator
Yellow/White - Coolant temperature
Green/white - tachometer
black/yellow - ground
Brown/White - Ignition

Once I confirmed the wiring configuration with butt connectors, I labelled everything, removed the connectors, and pinned a 10-Pin DELPHI connector. You can use whatever type of connector you want, I just had DELPHI parts kicking around so I used them. DELPHIs are waterproof but I really don't think it is necessary.

Mounting the Hall Effect Sensor:

Hall effect sensors work by varying it's output based on a magnetic field. They're used on all modern cars and motorcycles for speedometers, traction control, and so forth. Much like the trailtech vapor, this unit requires mounting the sensor near the wheel and installing two magnets which will pass by hall effect sensor.

The magnets that came with the speedo were set into brake buttons for floating disks (which the EX500 does not have) so I got some small magnets from the hardware store and JB welded them to the inner edge of the disk, just outside the mounting bolt circle. I mounted them 180 degrees apart. Make sure to test fit them for rubbing/interference before epoxying them in place.

As for mounting the sensor, I took a 1/8" thick piece of aluminum and drilled an M10 clearance hole, then a clearance hole for the sensor (don't remember the exact size - you can do this yourself). The brake caliper mount has an extra tapped M10 X 1.25 hole which I secured the bracket to. Make sure you loctite this. Now the sensor can be adjusted to an appropriate distance from the magnets to work. You can test it by propping up the front end of the bike and spinning the tire to see if it reads anything.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Before you mount your magnets, test them with the sensor to make sure you have them in the proper orientation. Hall effect sensors are polarity sensitive, so if your magnet is mounted backwards they will not work.

Programming the Speedometer:

Programming is simple - turn off the key, hold the button on the back, turn the key on. If you hold it for long enough, a different display will appear. This is the set up menu. The first three digits are half of the wheel circumference in millimeters. To shift digits, press and hold the button. I had to play around with this as it wasn't exactly what I calculated. I compared it to a GPS speedometer on my phone for a while to get it dialed.

The next digit is for fuel level resistance - 1 is for 100 ohm, 5 is 500 (only two options here). I used 5 but I still think it's wrong.

The last digit I've read can mean either number of cylinders.... or stroke. There are only two options: 2 or 4. Whatever it is, I used 4 and it seems to work fine.

Once you're done, turn off the ignition and turn it on again, it should work from there.

To switch between MPH and KMPH, hold the back button for a few seconds under normal operation.

Mounting the Speedometer:

I measured the back of the speedometer up with my calipers and made a rough drawing for what the pattern should be. I made an aluminum bracket that is mounted to the bike between the upper triple clamp and the ignition switch. I milled mine and then bent it, but you could probably get away with a drill, a dremel and a hacksaw. There's a million ways to mount it to the bike so I'll let you work your own creative process on this.

Attached are a few photos of the gauge, the mount, a wiring schematic from aliexpress, and the old gauge for comparison.

I'll snap a few photos of the hall effect mount later and upload them.

Anyways, I hope this helps you all with your installation if you decide to get this gauge. It's pretty sweet and if you're a broke university student like me then the price speaks for itself. If you have any questions feel free to post them here.

- Ryan
 

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#3 ·
If you want to... pick up a small potentiometer.
Use it inline with the temp sending unit wire and the guage.

You'll have to figure out how a correct reading looks on the fuel guage but you can adjust the potentiometer to an almost infinite number of resistances just by turning a little dial until you get it where it needs to be.
Then you remove the potentiometer and use your multimeter to read the resistance it's set to.
Then you'll know what actual resistor (or combo of) to get.

Have to browse and find the base resistance one you need. After that it's easy.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...0601.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xpotentiometer.TRS0&_nkw=potentiometer&_sacat=0

O_E_M

ETA: A rheostat would probably be better for this application.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...trksid=p2045573.m570.l1311.R1.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xrheo.TRS0&_nkw=rheostat&_sacat=0

Same concept... hook it up, dial it in.... measure its setting and get the correct resistor(s)
 
#7 ·
Jayrock205 said:
So I'm assuming u didn't get the temp gauge to work yet. How difficult do u think it would be to mount the stock gauges with some kind of bracket?

Kind of like this guy did to his orange EX, if you scroll down towards the bottom

http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?p=563831
Easy enough... you'd need some fab skills and a welder.

If you've got the stock fairing stay and don't mind me cutting it up I'll make a guage mount for you...
One that'll be more stream lined than the stock mount.
Just PM me about it and we can discuss details.

Sorry for the interruption of your thread, rjohnst...
O_E_M
 
#8 ·
Jayrock205 said:
So I'm assuming u didn't get the temp gauge to work yet. How difficult do u think it would be to mount the stock gauges with some kind of bracket?

Kind of like this guy did to his orange EX, if you scroll down towards the bottom

http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?p=563831
I looked into doing this but it still is a massive gauge cluster for a naken bike. It's no big deal if you have a fairing to hide it behind but it really is clunky. I'm not a huge fan of the look, especially with the white plastic behind it.

Regardless of what you end up doing, you will need to make a custom bracket for any option you go with if you don't have the stock mounting.
 
#9 ·
rjohnst said:
Jayrock205 said:
So I'm assuming u didn't get the temp gauge to work yet. How difficult do u think it would be to mount the stock gauges with some kind of bracket?

Kind of like this guy did to his orange EX, if you scroll down towards the bottom

http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?p=563831
I looked into doing this but it still is a massive gauge cluster for a naken bike. It's no big deal if you have a fairing to hide it behind but it really is clunky. I'm not a huge fan of the look, especially with the white plastic behind it.

Regardless of what you end up doing, you will need to make a custom bracket for any option you go with if you don't have the stock mounting.
Yeah that's what I figured. It's just that these cheaper aftermarket speedos don't have temp gauges. It seems like a lot of fighters just don't run them. How the **** would u know if you have a cooling issue until it's too late?

OEM, thank you. I'll consider your offer. When I look back at those pics, I'm not 100% sure if the big cluster would work with my headlight anyway.
 
#10 ·
@Jayrock... No problem.

If you decide to do it there's always a way to use the stock guages.
(Just not the stock housing ;) .... just need to be creative with some fabrication skills)

Just let know via PM and we'll work something out.

O_E_M
 
#11 ·
One_Evil_Monkey said:
@Jayrock... No problem.

If you decide to do it there's always a way to use the stock guages.
(Just not the stock housing ;) .... just need to be creative with some fabrication skills)

Just let know via PM and we'll work something out.

O_E_M
I did that once upon a time! Stock gauges chopped and mounted. I was going to mount the coolant temp gauge but ended up going with a first gen fairing, gauges, etc. instead.

Yes both of these are offroad. Not a normal thing, just the pictures I found first :p



 
#12 ·
Just curious if an idea like this would work. And I dont mean to steal the fire from this thread either rjohnst. It was an EXCELLENT write up. Im just pondering ideas to add if others cant get your temp gauge idea to work.

Could the temp sender be set up to something like an idiot light(indicator light) mounted somewhere that only comes on once it reaches a certain resistance or in other words once the engine reaches a certain temperature-- say like a temperature that is a bit too high and would indicate you have a problem? Kind of like a low oil level/pressure indicator light would.

I can't even remember how the temp sender works. i think its just a variable resistor right? Is it at a high or low resistance when the bike is cold?

Lol one more question. I just noticed that the ER-5 didn't even have a temp gauge on its cluster. Am i wrong in assuming most modern liquid cooled bikes have them? How do owners know when their bikes are about to start warping their cylinder heads and blowing head gaskets without the gauge?
 
#13 ·
Temp sensor should read approximately 57 ohms at 176 degrees which is our t-stat rating.

Once it reaches 212 degrees (boiling point) ohms should read approximately 27.

(Fahrenheit, not Celcius)

So technically you should be able to rig an idiot light into the mix.

People have driven for years without a guage (they were options back in the day, not standard).

No light, no guage... you don't know until it's too late.
The light is only good if you catch it in time because it doesn't come on until things are all but too hot.
Rock beats scissors beats paper.... guage beats light beats no warning.
Same concept except no warning just sucks and doesn't beat anything. LOL

O_E_M
 
#14 ·
One_Evil_Monkey said:
Temp sensor should read approximately 57 ohms at 176 degrees which is our t-stat rating.

Once it reaches 212 degrees (boiling point) ohms should read approximately 27.

(Fahrenheit, not Celcius)

So technically you should be able to rig an idiot light into the mix.

People have driven for years without a guage (they were options back in the day, not standard).

No light, no guage... you don't know until it's too late.
The light is only good if you catch it in time because it doesn't come on until things are all but too hot.
Rock beats scissors beats paper.... guage beats light beats no warning.
Same concept except no warning just sucks and doesn't beat anything. LOL

O_E_M
Hahaha

I'm gonna look into rigging up a warning light in some way. I'll have to do some research and enhance my electronics skills. I dont recall how to get a light to come on only at a set resistance reading.

I'm thinking about going back to a naked bike and throwing some dual sport tires on this thing. Nothing but long, flat dirt roads on this side of NM.
 
#15 ·
It wouldn't be too hard I wouldn't think...
The temp sensor reisitance (Ohms) drops as it gets hotter....
So using a rheostat, an LED, a power source....
Do the test for temp sensor.... where you heat water with tip of sensor in it
(use a thermometer for water temp readings)...

And dial in the rheostat to make the light come on at whatever temp you choose... which you'll know because your thermometer will tell you...
Since we know that the 212F makes the Ohms read about 27... make the light kick in at say... 205.
So you'd dial in the rheostat until the light comes on then...

Then you'd measure the Ohms of the rheostat and that will tell you what risistor you'd need to use so when the temp sensor drops below a certain Ohm reading, the new resistor would then allow current to light the LED.

Of course you'd have to have all this temporary wired together near your stove top and water to do this stuff.

(I used to live in CO... So I've been in NM... no thanks. LOL)

O_E_M
 
#16 ·
I just wired up my gauge purchased from http://www.ebay.com/itm/161985289957?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT.

The wiring is a bit different so I figured I'd post the diagram for my specific gauge as well incase anyone else ends up with one. I'll also note that the "fuel" indicator wire is blue/white whereas in this diagram it's stated as white. I still need to figure out the headlight indicators as both the running light indicator and the highbeam indicator are always on. The highbeam indicator just gets a bit brighter when the highbeam is engaged.

Here's the wiring diagram. Hopefully it also contributes to OP as it lists the fuel gauge empty as 98 ohms and full as 8 ohms. Also, I believe mine has a trip odometer.. I'll have to verify that once I get the bike on the road
 

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#17 ·
Johns00 said:
I still need to figure out the headlight indicators as both the running light indicator and the highbeam indicator are always on. The highbeam indicator just gets a bit brighter when the highbeam is engaged.
As long as the high beam indicator is hooked to the red/black wire, it's only getting power when the high beam is on. It's literally a fork off the wire going to the bulb's high beam filament.

The Gen1 uses a Reserve Lighting Device which turns on the other filament if one dies. On my Vulcan, the two beams would switch back and forth, but didn't quite seem to work right. Just replacing the bulb with a new one made everything work like it was supposed to. I've never really seen anything on the guts of the RLD and exactly how it works, but it seemed to cause a little weirdness when my bulb apparently wasn't quite perfect.

There's not actually a "low beam indicator" wire in the dash. The red/blue mentioned in the first post is actually what powers the gauge's illumination bulbs (and the running lights in front signals), and runs off the taillight fuse. It comes on as soon as the key is turned. If you actually wanted to tie it into the headlight circuit, you'd want the red/yellow wire. The only difference should be that the headlight doesn't come on until the engine turns over.
 
#22 ·
It is possible that your gauge varies slightly from mine, just like the post above mentions. Mine would not do anything until a wired in a 12V source directly from the battery (completely separate from the ignition). On gauges like the trailtech vapor, I believe they use a small battery internal to the gauge for this to save settings and such. Mine would not light up or do anything until it had 12 volts across the ignition and battery wires, as well the ground hooked up. If nothing is working at all this is probably the case.

I recommend bench testing it with a power supply before trying to install it in the bike to verify the wiring. Once you get it to turn on you can play around verifying what each wire does.
 
#24 ·
I'm not getting any reading for the tach but the seller is sending me another one in hope this tach is simply faulty. I did notice that my unit varies from yours. Aside from the wiring, the programming screen is entirely different. First screen shows 4 digits with the first varying 0-2 and the other three 0-9 which I'm assuming is wheel circumference, second screen shows 2 digits 0-12 engine displacement I think, third screen is 2 or 4 cylinder count, and the fourth screen is 2 or 3 and I'm not quite sure what it's for.

Speedo registers but is extremely inaccurate. I've been playing around with the wheel sizing but can't seem to get it close. It's fine up to 10mph but is incredibly off afterwards, 40mph is about 20 on the speedo, 80mph is about 35 on the speedo.

I'm not sure about jmoss but i have a first gen. I'll also note that the version I have has a trip odometer
 
#26 ·
Hows this gauge working for you now?

Just thought I'd share since these things have half a dozen different layouts now it seems....on mine:

Menu 1 is the circumference in mm
Menu 2 is the number of magnetic sensors you have attached to your wheel (not the fuel gauge)
Menu 3 is the number of cylinders
Menu 4... I'm not sure but it could be the resistance setting for the fuel gauge.
Menu 5 is to reset the Odometer (not trip meter)
 
#27 ·
Hi one_evil_monkey

I would like some idea to mount the stock gauge on my fork. I am about to install an acerbis cyclops headlight so i need to find a way to mount everything.

I was thinking with 4 stainless clamp with a aluminium panel to hold the headlight.

Yellow : gauges
Blue : cyclops headlight
Red : turn signal
Green : headlight mount

Its a really rough drawing. I am still waiting for some piece to start mounting everything to get a better idea of the measurement. I dont have a welder so i am still not sure how to attach the gauges on top of the bracket
 

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