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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 9-14-2019, 3:45 PM Thread Starter
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Help to build new seat pan

Hello community,

I have installed a second hand ebay rear fairing, see pictures. I cannot sit on the bike now because I removed the original seat so there is nothing anymore to support my weight. I guess I have to make some bespoke supports but do not really know where to start. Can you help?

Cheers
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Last edited by Gedde; 9-15-2019 at 3:51 AM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 9-14-2019, 5:24 PM
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who is manufacturer of tailsection?

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 9-14-2019, 8:09 PM
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It's pretty tough to offer advice by looking at those pictures. It looks like that piece is meant to sit under whatever seat works with it, which will not be the stock seat. The fiberglas by itself is not suitable to support anything, so it's apparently intended to sit on the seat supports. Since you bought this used, I hope you have info as to what bike or seat it's meant for. Once you have a seat that fits, the particulars of how it mounts will determine what you need to do.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 9-15-2019, 2:43 AM Thread Starter
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Well no I do not have this info, what I am going to do is built a wooden support between the subframe and the seat and bolt it to the subframe, I will show you when I am done.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 9-15-2019, 3:27 AM
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Yes, I've done this many times in one of two ways.

Wood support as core
Build wooden posts, two per side. Then connect them sideways about 1/2-way so you have lateral box. These cross-pieces locate tops and bottom of posts. On bottom of posts, carve U-channel to wrap around frame. Attach metal-brackets as necessary to hold firmly to frame. Finally, wrap 2-3 layers of fibreglass around wooden structure to add strength and water-proofing.

Weld metal support
For race bikes where strength and light-weight are in conflict, I weld metal bridge onto frame to support tail-section. bolts from top through fibreglass onto metal-bridge (welded nuts underneath metal bridge). Lay down seat foam, making sure to cut holes to access mounting bolts. Ends up about 1/2 weight of wood structure.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 9-15-2019, 3:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Yes, I've done this many times in one of two ways.

Weld metal support
For race bikes where strength and light-weight are in conflict, I weld metal bridge onto frame to support tail-section. bolts from top through fibreglass onto metal-bridge (welded nuts underneath metal bridge). Lay down seat foam, making sure to cut holes to access mounting bolts. Ends up about 1/2 weight of wood structure.
Ahhh Danno that's great you here :-)

The "metal bridge" what raw material do you use? and what steps are involved. I actually absolutly see the end result. I would love you give me more details and why not a drawing or a picture man!!

Thank you so much !!
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 9-15-2019, 3:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gedde View Post
Well no I do not have this info, what I am going to do is built a wooden support between the subframe and the seat and bolt it to the subframe, I will show you when I am done.
First you say you don't know where to start and now you're going to show us what you're going to do. Seems like you're getting the help you need so I'm out.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 9-19-2019, 5:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gedde View Post
Ahhh Danno that's great you here :-)

The "metal bridge" what raw material do you use? and what steps are involved. I actually absolutly see the end result. I would love you give me more details and why not a drawing or a picture man!!

Thank you so much !!
Actually, no need to weld metal bridge to frame, can bolt it on just fine. Look at how rear of tank is supported by metal bridge and we'll make two similar bridges to hold rear bodywork/seat. First, we'l! do mock-up with wood to get dimensions and angles. Get sheet of 6mm-thick 300x300 balsa wood from hobbie shoppe; easy to shape and work with.



Then slice it into 6 equal-length 50x300mm segments.



Shape and shorten wood panels gradually to build 2 bridges connecting frame beams together with connecting piece for supporting tail section. Place one under rear of seat section and other towards front. Should be spaced longitudinally apart about 250-300. Length and angle measurements will be different between your fore and aft supports.



You can hold woods together with duct-tape and test-fit tail-section on top. When dimensions are finalised, we'll transfer over to metal U-channel sections made from rectangular tubing.

For seat, slab of foam can be glued on with spray adhesive, 3M #90 or some such. Or 3M Fastak if you want seat permanently attached.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CZ3X95C
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BBV2S

Last edited by DannoXYZ; 9-20-2019 at 10:12 PM.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 9-20-2019, 10:02 PM
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As for raw-materials, we use rectangular 2x1" tubing and slice it in half. It's webs on sides that generates bending-strength for light weight. Use 14ga/2.0mm thickness for street bike use. For lighter-weight, I've used 18ga/1.6mm.

DiscountSteel.com - Mechanical/Structural Steel Rectangular Tube

Once you have finalised total length from wood mock-up, length of tubing will be known and ordered (1/2 needed since we're slicing into 2).

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Today, 4:40 AM Thread Starter
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Hello,

So what I did I bought a spare tank bracket and did position it 10 cm back from the front tank bracket that holds the gas tank.

I did cut the spare bracket with an angle of maybe 15 degrees and now position it onto the rear frame, it will fit great as the spacing between the left and right frame tubes perfectly falls into place with the brackets.

Then there was too much space between the brackets hence I did cut a 2mm stainless plate and drill two holes on it. The front hole is held by the tank bolt and the second hole is held by the spare bracket hole.

Did weld the spare bracket and ready to go.

Photos attached
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Last edited by Gedde; Today at 7:03 AM.
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