no air box, please help - Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 1-12-2020, 8:53 PM Thread Starter
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no air box, please help

Hi, I am building the classic bike not for everyday riding, but will prefer to use it for long trip. It has the original engine with carbs and coolant system from ex500. I am not wishing spend a lot on it and I don't want increase any power performance, only that i want that my cv carbs work controllable without airbox. The chassis and rear suspension not allowing me install any big box. The question is- Can I adjust cv carb along with rejeting to make pods or velocity stack work and expecting that it will not let me down ?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 1-13-2020, 12:54 AM
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I’ve set mine up with a dynojet kit in the original carb set with k&n filters. Easy to install and is running sweet. I found the dynojet kit on eBay, not sure who sells them now. I also have a de restricted pipe so set up on stage 3.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 1-13-2020, 8:23 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kiwigpz View Post
I’ve set mine up with a dynojet kit in the original carb set with k&n filters. Easy to install and is running sweet. I found the dynojet kit on eBay, not sure who sells them now. I also have a de restricted pipe so set up on stage 3.
Useful info. I found one seller. The item very costy, they are split by 3 stages. On description more likely I need 2nd, but if they mean k&n for airbox.

Link on eBay- https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F222879540067
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 1-13-2020, 11:49 AM
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https://www.ex-500.com/8-general-dis...today-303.html


Ask this guy how he did it

FOG

I hate PMs if you want to contact me, find my email address.Look in the for sale section.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 1-13-2020, 11:44 PM
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That doesn’t seem to be the correct kit for what you want. The kit I got was a stage 7 which has a wide range of tuning. The instructions are easy to follow. The settings are not going to be the same for everyone, altitude, makes a big difference, also air pressure and humidity so you may have to play around with the air screw to smooth out the idle ( mines at 3 1/4 turns out)
And the needle may need lifted or dropped a 1/2 clip to richen or lean out the fuel mixture. make sure the inlet manifolds are properly sealed to the engine. Make sure the slide vacuum rubbers are correctly placed in their allocated grooves, slide up freely and return smoothly. Use a little silicon grease around the edge of the vacuum it may help. Make sure your carbs and jets are all clean and your float levels are set to standard. Make sure your carbs are balanced, you can do this by eye watching the butterfly’s open and close and adjust the balance screw, but a better job with vac gauges. Make sure your compression is good, valve clearances are correct, you have fresh fuel.

The dynojet needles have a more aggressive taper, and also are adjustable so I wouldn’t try any modifications with stock needles. The slide hole is drilled out to 3.1mm and the softer springs makes it easier for the vacuum to lift the slide. There are a number of main jet sizes to then fine tune the full open fueling which will depend on your air filter and exhaust. The trouble shooting document that comes with the kit is really helpful for getting your head around what you need to adjust to iron out any running issues. And once you have the air box off it’s way easier to work on the carbs.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 1-14-2020, 7:47 PM Thread Starter
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I found one guy selling Stage 1&3, Stage 3 for Individual pod filter. How do you check mixture, do you have special tools or just by spark plugs?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 1-15-2020, 6:57 AM
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If you follow the instructions with the install, the fuel mixture should be close. Let it warm up a bit and see that it revs free to the red line. You should be able to open the throttle normally without any hesitation in the revs. If there is then you may need to lift the needle a little to richen. If it’s boggy and then revs clearly you may need to lower the needle to lean out the mixture. The best way to set up the air screw for idle is to set the mixture screws to 2 1/2 turns out from fully seated, start the bike, then turn them 1/2 turn further open if the bike starts running rough then turn them back to where they were then try 1/2 turn the other way. You want to set the screws at the point where the engine idles the smoothest and highest rpm, then reset the idle adjustment. You will only be able to sort the main jet once you ride it as it mostly effects full throttle opening, so you will need some straight road, what you are looking for is the engine to rev free to the redline while your riding at full throttle. It’s probably the hardest one to get exactly right as it may feel similar with different sized jets. Always start big and then move down in main jet size as it’s easier to tell if the jet change is working.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 1-15-2020, 7:59 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kiwigpz View Post
If you follow the instructions with the install, the fuel mixture should be close. Let it warm up a bit and see that it revs free to the red line. You should be able to open the throttle normally without any hesitation in the revs. If there is then you may need to lift the needle a little to richen. If it’s boggy and then revs clearly you may need to lower the needle to lean out the mixture. The best way to set up the air screw for idle is to set the mixture screws to 2 1/2 turns out from fully seated, start the bike, then turn them 1/2 turn further open if the bike starts running rough then turn them back to where they were then try 1/2 turn the other way. You want to set the screws at the point where the engine idles the smoothest and highest rpm, then reset the idle adjustment. You will only be able to sort the main jet once you ride it as it mostly effects full throttle opening, so you will need some straight road, what you are looking for is the engine to rev free to the redline while your riding at full throttle. It’s probably the hardest one to get exactly right as it may feel similar with different sized jets. Always start big and then move down in main jet size as it’s easier to tell if the jet change is working.
Thanks kiwigpz. That's very helpful information. I'll get my dyno kit and try to make my carbs run proper, I will post back how it goes. Hopefully it will works.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 1-17-2020, 5:57 AM
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Make sure you get good quality air filters like k&n don’t buy cheap Ones.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 1-18-2020, 8:43 PM Thread Starter
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Make sure you get good quality air filters like k&n don’t buy cheap Ones.
I am looking for dna, they are a bit cheaper and good performance, about $85 for two. they are very similar to k&n I think.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Today, 3:44 PM
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You can get the K&N for $84 on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7FNXS...v_ov_lig_dp_it
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