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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-15-2019, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Not starting

I recently purchased a 2005 EX500 about a month ago...it had sat up for 2 yrs. I have replaced the battery,changed oil and air filter, drained the old fuel out of tank and put a petcock on, clean the carbs, checked the spark plugs and regapped them...only way i can get it to start is spray a lil starter fluid in it..it keeps acting like its not getting any gas from tank to carbs....any help will be much appreciated
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-15-2019, 11:55 AM
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If it (kinda) runs on starter fluid then you are getting air and spark. So, you are not getting fuel.

What did you to clean the carbs? Are you sure the carbs are getting gas from the tank?
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-15-2019, 12:01 PM
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using the carb bowl drain screws, loosen each side to confirm presence of fuel in each. IF fuel is present, I'd venture to say your carb internal circuits not quite as clean as need be. If fuel is NOT present in each bowl, an obvious delivery problem exists.

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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-15-2019, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Its getting fuel to carb and filling the bowls, i loosened the drain screw and fuel ran out. When i checked, petcock, nothing comes out the petcock reserve side and main is a slow steady flow. When i clean carbs, i got a carb rebuild kit and cleaned all jets.
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-15-2019, 12:33 PM
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Its getting fuel to carb and filling the bowls, i loosened the drain screw and fuel ran out. When i checked, petcock, nothing comes out the petcock reserve side and main is a slow steady flow. When i clean carbs, i got a carb rebuild kit and cleaned all jets.
I don't want to insult your wrenching skills here, but how familiar are you with cleaning carbs?

They can be tricky little bastards and the jets have to be practically surgically clean to work properly. The pilot jets clog very easily and they are needed to start and idle.
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-15-2019, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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I clean the jets til i could see light the the holes...oh yeah they were clogged bad...first soaked in carb cleaner, rinsed with Avgas and blew low pressure air thru it all to make sure nothing was clogged.
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-15-2019, 1:55 PM
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There is much more required than simply "poking the pilots". Multiple, interconnecting circuits exist within the bodies, not visible. Multiple systems are employed within as well. Its all gotta work together like an orchestra.

Safe to say you've missed something. Multiple attempts are fairly common in a home setting.

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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-15-2019, 2:32 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah i soak the carbs 45 mins on each side in the carb cleaner and rinsed with Avgas then blew air thru it...im gona do it again and see if i can get better results...ill let you know
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-15-2019, 3:27 PM
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What carb cleaner did you use to soak the carbs? Berrymans carb dip?

Gotta being careful with soaking. Some chemicals are too harsh for rubber parts. Some Kawi carbs (like my KDX) have hidden gaskets in the jet block that get destroyed by harsh chemicals and then the bike runs like crap. Kawasaki don't even acknowledge the existence of this rubber gasket, only deep knowledge on good forums surfaces this critical info!
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-15-2019, 6:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davenay67 View Post
Some Kawi carbs (like my KDX) have hidden gaskets in the jet block that get destroyed by harsh chemicals and then the bike runs like crap. Kawasaki don't even acknowledge the existence of this rubber gasket, only deep knowledge on good forums surfaces this critical info!
...like jet block requiring removal of the torx screw pictured?
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-15-2019, 8:43 PM
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^ Looks like a security torx screw at that.
Did they think someone was going to steel it.

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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-16-2019, 12:00 AM
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^ Looks like a security torx screw at that.
Did they think someone was going to steel it.

No, they just wanted to keep civilians out of a restricted area.
post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-16-2019, 10:39 AM
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...like jet block requiring removal of the torx screw pictured?
Yeah, something like that. Not sure about the EX, haven't dived in that deep yet. This bike is new to me and I know the carbs have probably not even been off the bike before, so no worries about aggressive dipping on my example.
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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-16-2019, 10:55 AM
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No, they just wanted to keep civilians out of a restricted area.
Which is perfect in theory. However rubber doesn't last forever. And it doesn't last at all when it comes into contact with certain cleaning chemicals. If the gasket has deteriorated it needs to be replaced or else the bike will never run correctly.

Kawasaki doesn't even admit the existence of this gasket, not on any replacement part diagrams or fiche diagrams. Maybe the manufacturer of the carbs doesn't tell Kawasaki?

I don't believe the EX carbs have this jet block gasket, so some of my comments in this thread may be moot for the EX. Apologies if this only created confusion.

But other bikes do have them and it pays to research your carbs very carefully before using very aggressive cleaning methods.

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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-16-2019, 11:54 AM
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Yeah i soak the carbs 45 mins on each side in the carb cleaner and rinsed with Avgas then blew air thru it...im gona do it again and see if i can get better results...ill let you know
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so @mtdew435 wha happen? how you make out anyways?

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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-16-2019, 2:54 PM Thread Starter
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I hadn't had a chance to look it over or take the carb back apart. I ordered another petcock, this time i did an OEM and not aftermarket...and on the carb cleaner, i can't remember the name right off top of my head..but i read on it and said don't leave submerged for more than 2 hrs if it has plastic or aluminum , hence soaked in it for 45 mins on each side. I think it was Hopps Carb cleaner
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-22-2019, 3:34 PM Thread Starter
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OK, finally got my new OEM petcock in and installed yesterday....it fired up and ran at idle speed. I ad to adjust it to get it to idle down...but my next issue is when you try and throttle up, it starts to sputter and shuts off. I noticed i left a vent hose off carb, reinstall and refired it...it backfired and now wont start. What could i be missing?
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-23-2019, 10:51 AM
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still something in the circuits amiss, i'd guess. A 2005 is now 14 year old, and sat for 2 years with fuel? ....clearly more aggressive clearing methods are needed, followed by careful setup.

As they say on many internet forums "Carbs are *easy*" ........NOT at all

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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-25-2019, 7:56 AM Thread Starter
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I recleaned the carb...took breather box off and cleaned it...replaced the spark plugs...it fired up and ran for a littlw while, actually got to ride it for a little bit to see how it did. When i rolled the throttle it wanted to sputter for a few seconds but then was fine but after about 10-15 minutes riding it acted like it was wanting to flood out but it would stay running with the choke on. Is it possible its getting more gas than air and do i need to adjust the pilot air some? I appreciate all the help and advice y'all are giving...slowly making progress.
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-25-2019, 9:54 AM
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clean the filler cap vent

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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-25-2019, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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How would you suggest? Ive taken the cap off and blew air thru the hose and vent tube...do i need to blow down thru the opening on top of the tank? Also would I need to adjust the pilot air screws some?

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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-25-2019, 11:00 AM
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How would you suggest? Ive taken the cap off and blew air thru the hose and vent tube...do i need to blow down thru the opening on top of the tank? Also would I need to adjust the pilot air screws some?
You need to take the cap apart to clean it properly

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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-25-2019, 12:06 PM
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How would you suggest? Ive taken the cap off and blew air thru the hose and vent tube...do i need to blow down thru the opening on top of the tank? Also would I need to adjust the pilot air screws some?
remove the cap from the tank...remove the phillips head screws on the underside...underneath that cover lives an orange disc, should be clearly visible. Remove that disc. Pull its small circular plastic housing to reveal a 2nd small circular housing and yet another orange disc. Remove this disc as well and reassemble everything in reverse order.

The venting system within the cap is now clear, allowing the tank to "breathe".

Using a forum advanced search with the term "orange discs" will bring up 20+ threads on the problematic, common EX tank vent system.

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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-25-2019, 12:53 PM
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I would also suggest replacing the rubber tipped float needle. It sounds like gas is flowing past the float into the cylinder and flooding the combustion chamber.

When replacing the float needle, double check the correct float level is set.

I have a Honda Cub that sat for years. When you would run it and come to a stop light it would bog down and die. It was due to the small float needle being indented and worn out from sitting. These are cheap and good to replace, if you haven't already, when you buy a bike that has sat for a while.

Other symptoms of bad float needle:
*Too much gas in cylinder causes backfiring
*Strong smell of gas in exhaust
*Poor starting and idling
*Bogging down when initially rolling on the throttle

Hope that offers some help too.

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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 3-28-2019, 8:43 AM Thread Starter
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I replaced both float needles when i bought carb rebuild kits. I took the filler cap off and took it apart...lets just say i just ordered a new one lol...it is clogged pretty bad and corroded pretty bad. Im hoping after all this it should start and run.
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