Fork oil change and wobble when decelerating - Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-10-2019, 7:54 PM Thread Starter
zin
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Fork oil change and wobble when decelerating

My 2007 ex500 seems like it hits bumps really hard. I bought it with 6300 miles now at 12k suspension feels really bad. Does that mean I need to change the fork oil. Previous owner stated he only changed tires and motor oil as long as he owned the bike. How should I go about? Or should I be looking elsewhere to solve this problem?
Now the wobble when decelerating. I've noticed it since last year when the bike starts decelerating it wobbles if I let go of the handle bars. Is that a tire issue? Tires only have 4k miles on them pirelli speed demon tires.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-11-2019, 8:26 AM
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I'd suggest to change the fork oil, seals and bushings. I had a 2007 as well. I thought I could get away with just seals but found the bushings were bad. (And that bike only had 9K miles!)

And then I'd check the tire and re-balance.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-11-2019, 8:39 AM
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May be the alignment as well. FOG has a couple write-ups about "Rocking The Forks" and doing the "String Thing" that may get you sorted out.

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-11-2019, 4:34 PM Thread Starter
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I've looked on eBay but can't seem to make up my mind on which fork seals to get. Is there a seal and bushing kit? I don't have the tools or know a mechanic to balance the tires. The string thing is for alignment so do I need to balance or align? The shop might be very expensive
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-11-2019, 5:01 PM
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I also have the death wobble/head shake issue and have tried to research. The common response I found is to do the string thing to check the alignment because it is a common cause of the issue.

It is also good to ensure the tires are balanced. This can be done 'good enough' at home with some car jacks and the bike axle, even though its not the lowest friction possible as when using a balance stand ($100+).

Plenty of youtube vids out there to show you how to do both.

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-11-2019, 5:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zin View Post
I've looked on eBay but can't seem to make up my mind on which fork seals to get. Is there a seal and bushing kit? I don't have the tools or know a mechanic to balance the tires. The string thing is for alignment so do I need to balance or align? The shop might be very expensive

I've always used the ALl Balls brand, but I know some of the members on here are not fans. I, personally, don't trust things on Ebay!

https://www.allballsracing.com/25-1385.html
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-11-2019, 8:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zin View Post
I've looked on eBay but can't seem to make up my mind on which fork seals to get. Is there a seal and bushing kit? I don't have the tools or know a mechanic to balance the tires. The string thing is for alignment so do I need to balance or align? The shop might be very expensive

I've always used the ALl Balls brand, but I know some of the members on here are not fans. I, personally, don't trust things on Ebay!

https://www.allballsracing.com/25-1385.html
Link leads to wheel bearings.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-11-2019, 8:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I also have the death wobble/head shake issue and have tried to research. The common response I found is to do the string thing to check the alignment because it is a common cause of the issue.

It is also good to ensure the tires are balanced. This can be done 'good enough' at home with some car jacks and the bike axle, even though its not the lowest friction possible as when using a balance stand ($100+).

Plenty of youtube vids out there to show you how to do both.
Thanks I'm going to look at the vids and try it.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-11-2019, 10:35 PM
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I'm surprised nobody's mentioned tire pressure yet. If a tire, front or rear, has too little air that can cause a wobble too.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-11-2019, 10:59 PM
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I had an issue with my ninja when I first bought it with wobble (mostly if I took my hands off the handle bars)


I finally noticed the tires, while the tread was nice, had a slight bump in it and when I put on a new tire, it was fine and the wobble went away.



So tires can make the difference in some cases.


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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-11-2019, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zin View Post
Link leads to wheel bearings.

Here's the fork bushings:

https://www.allballsracing.com/38-6103.html


Fork Seals:

https://www.allballsracing.com/56-123.html


Wheel Bearings - front:

https://www.allballsracing.com/25-1385.html


Wheel Bearings - rear:

https://www.allballsracing.com/25-1234.html
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-12-2019, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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I've always monitored the tire pressure so I know its good. I've looked at the tires too for bumps or bilges but nothing there. I noticed the wobble started after adjusted the slack on the chain. Might be alignment then .
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-12-2019, 3:36 AM
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Had that issue with a couple of bikes in the past. I quickly learned to keep hold at certain speeds. I would suspect that front tyre isnt quite round with all the sitting its done before coming your way.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-12-2019, 8:18 AM
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Unless you lost a weight somewhere, tires do not tend to just fall out of balance. If it was after a chain adjustment, my first guess would be that you are out of alignment. That means that your front and back tires are not pointing in exactly the same direction and they are trying to travel on different lines. This is easy to do when you tighten the bolts for your back tire. The "String Thing" is your best course of action to fix that.
I used AllBalls Racing products on my bike and had no issues with them. Fork Seals, tapered roller (Steering head) and wheel bearings.

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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-12-2019, 9:31 AM
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please read. 99% of the wobbles are caused by the front and rear wheel not following the same track, the rear being larger always wind by pulling the front to heel

Linky :https://www.ex-500.com/37-how-s-fyi/...ing-thing.html

Tip : drill and tap a hole at the bottom in the back of the circular part of the fork tube, this is a a drain you plug. the gen 1 have it but not the gen 2s

do it

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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-13-2019, 2:14 AM Thread Starter
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Will do Fog. Thanks for all the advice everyone. I will realign and change fork oil and seals. Thanks
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-19-2019, 1:41 AM Thread Starter
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So I spent 2 hours yesterday doing the string thing. I set the string 8 inches high on the rear wheel making sure it didn't touch anything other than the wheel. I watched front end of rear wheel just touching the string and measured on front wheel adjusting the chain nuts as needed. Then after both sides string had equal gap equal gap at front wheel, I tightened the lock nuts and axle nut. I went for a ride today evening and the wobble felt worse and after riding for 30 minutes there is a cluck cluck noise on the front sprocket. Where did I go wrong.
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-19-2019, 4:28 AM
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For one thing your chain is probably too tight. Check to see if you have about 1.5 inches of deflection at the center of the chain. This could fix the "cluck cluck" noise, the wobble is a separate issue.

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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-19-2019, 2:07 PM Thread Starter
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I couldn't sleep all night thinking about what the problem was so when I got up today morning I went back to the bike and check the slack adjustment and for sure it was really too tight. And instead of doing the string thing I decided to measure from the pivot bolt to the axle bolts to align the wheels and they measure 20 and 1/8 of an inch on both sides minding the slack adjustment I brang it back between 1 and 1/4 to 1 and 1/2 in. I measured the bottom chain from the chain link pushing the chain up to see how far it goes up. It gets upto just before the one and a half inch mark. I didn't get the time to go ride it so I'll let you know how it goes

Last edited by zin; 6-19-2019 at 2:10 PM.
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-19-2019, 11:13 PM
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Measuring the distance from the swingarm pivot (which I believe is what you did) to the axle will tell you if the rear axle is parallel to the swingarm but it won't tell you if the front and rear wheels are aligned.

At this point it's a good place to start though, because something obviously went wrong when you did the string thing and it ended up more out of alignment than before.
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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-20-2019, 6:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K-woppa View Post
Measuring the distance from the swingarm pivot (which I believe is what you did) to the axle will tell you if the rear axle is parallel to the swingarm but it won't tell you if the front and rear wheels are aligned.

At this point it's a good place to start though, because something obviously went wrong when you did the string thing and it ended up more out of alignment than before.
Yeah im still trying to figure out what happened
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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-20-2019, 8:34 PM
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In the string thing you must remember to re position the strings after any adjustment

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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 6-22-2019, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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There is a slight warp on the rear disc rotor. I think that's attributing to the wobble. OMG. I spinned the wheel by hand after riding it for 30 minutes and I can hear the rubbing at a point on the disc. And watching the rotor spin I see a small tilt in it. Very small.
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