Bike has no power at higher rpms - Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 8-24-2019, 4:23 PM Thread Starter
Bjk
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Bike has no power at higher rpms

Hi, first post on here. I have a stock 06 ninja 500r, bought it new when i was in high school. Put about 3,800 miles on it the first 3 years i had it and then it sat for a long time. I took the carbs off a few years ago (they were real gummed up) and had them rebuilt by a bike shop that is now closed, so i do not know any details about what exactly they did or what parts they used. Anyway now that i have my own garage to work on it i hooked them back up and after about 6 years the bike fired right up! Idled a bit low so i brought it up to 1200rpm and runs great. No stalling, smooth ect.. when i took it for a ride everything seemed great. But it just has no power at higher rpms. I can shift through all the gears and get up to 70+ mph but it takes a few hundred yards. Its almost like the throttle is unresponsive after 5-6000rpm. Take it back to my garage and i can rev it up to high rpm in neutral. Not sure where to go from here. I just found this website and it seems to have a TON of info and im looking forward to getting this bike back into great shape Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 8-24-2019, 8:14 PM
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Sounds like a defective or unproperly seated carb diaphragm.

2006 Ninja500R Purchased new July 2006; 0 miles. Miles as of January 2019; 102,137. It's a GO bike, not a SHOW bike.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 8-25-2019, 7:45 AM
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"after about 6 years the bike fired right up"

You've been incredibly lucky on that. But circuits other than the starter and pilot may be affected. Carb pull in your future. Once on the bench, deal with ALL the circuits and float system. Doing any less than the full boat cannot be justified.

“Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba....” quote Hunter S Thompson

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 8-25-2019, 3:28 PM Thread Starter
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Ok looks like tomorrow after work i am pulling the carb... by ‘all circuits and float system’ you are saying full carb clean and readjusting float? Im an aircraft mechanic by trade, so i can usually do all my own garage work, its just a matter of know what to do. Thanks guys i let you know what i find with the carbs off
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 8-25-2019, 10:45 PM
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You’ll want to trace full path of petrol through carbs from beginning to end:

- fuel-inlet pipe and splitter
- float-valves and seats
- pilot-jet and bleed holes
- main-jet, emulsion-tube and bleed holes
- circuits between jets and venturi
- air-jets and ports on venturi

Everywhere should be mechanically scrubbed with brushes and flossed with guitar wire of matching size. Then soak in ultrasonic cleaner with radioactive caustic solvents. Finally micro soda-blast @ 10000psi.

Btw, throw away all spray-cans of “carb cleaner”, they are now useless with removal of chlorinated compounds. Ammonia from your pee will do better job.

Last edited by DannoXYZ; 8-25-2019 at 10:48 PM.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 8-28-2019, 9:40 AM
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Before you disassemble the carburetors, verify that the air filter is not dirty and has good air flow.

It happened to me once, I oil the filter too much. I could accelerate the bike through all the gears being in the central support until 9000 rpm, but under load, riding, in 5th and 6th gears could not go beyond 5000 rpm.

I had to use a compressed air gun to remove excess oil and the change was drastic.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 8-28-2019, 2:15 PM
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Oh good idea. Can test that by running without air-filter. Does it work better?

Inspect all airbox passages for obstruction. People have found paper, snails and bird's nest clogging airflow.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 8-28-2019, 2:54 PM
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Left behind shop rags an infamous common calamity. Also seem to remember years ago reading about gloves stashed underseat finding a way in....though not EX500

Decomposing foam air filter debris? common as well
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“Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba....” quote Hunter S Thompson

Custom Carb Service

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Last edited by ducatiman; 8-28-2019 at 2:59 PM.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 9-19-2019, 6:55 PM
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With long term storage, I would consider looking carefully at the petcock, both the diaphragm and all the fuel passages. Bad diaphragms cause air leaks and restricted fuel delivery. Leftover gasoline varnish/deposits can block fuel delivery. Gas cap venting systems can also cause a vacuum in the fuel tank.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 9-20-2019, 11:35 AM
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I wuold also look at the air filter and gas cap prior to pulling the carb. I have pulled over many a time do to impropper tank venting before removing the one way vent.

1993 Teal/White EX500 6K First Street Bike
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 9-21-2019, 11:39 AM
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Hello..
I also had a full throttle problem and solved everything from the beginning. Tank - Does Fuel Leave From It?
At what speed he goes to the hose?
If that's right, the next is the height of the float and the purity of the carburetor.
Is the main nozzle clean?
Check with air at the carburetor inlet, to lift the needle all the way.
Look on exhaust how smoke throw..


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