Idle and running issues - Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-7-2019, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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First post. So I bought a 03 ninja 500 about 2 weeks ago and it has been giving me hell ever since. I rode it about 40 miles from picking up from owner (bought the bike warm, I know it was dumb) the guy showed up and was Ina hurry which I thought was weird but brushed it off. Anyways he says that it won't run without the clutch on sometimes so I ride it with about a 1/4 of clutch engaged and it was running alright, until I would drop into first gear it would die randomly. Took it back home and opened up air box to see if that was the issue and the entire filter was dust. Got into opening to carbs. So cleaned and replaced that and had carbs cleaned because it was still running rough, it would idile rough and when riding would feel a chugging like I was running out of gas. Carb cleaning didn't seem to help so replaced spark plugs which were sparking fine. The issue now is the right cylinder doesn't seem to be firing when starting up and idiling. I feel the exhaust pipe coming out and left is burning hot but the right I can grab onto and hold all day. There is a very slight knocking noise and strong vibrations when idiling as well, but when I get into gear and pull of and accelerate it feels like once I give it enough gas the other side starts firing and I get full power from the engine. Please help
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Last edited by Gortness; 10-7-2019 at 11:35 PM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-8-2019, 3:53 AM
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Did you have the carbs professionally cleaned? May have piece of filter lodged in one of them.

Is the vacuum line hooked back up to the Pair valve? (pic 3)

Don't know how likely a bad coil would be, but you can easily test it by switching the coils around to see if the problem moves to the other side.

2006 Ninja500R Purchased new July 2006; 0 miles. Miles as of January 2019; 102,137. It's a GO bike, not a SHOW bike.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-8-2019, 7:40 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, I had them professionally cleaned. Ordered one of lamps pair replacement block offs and a new petcock and jets. The petcocks rubber was a little beat up when I opened it so not sure if that could be an issue. But like I said it starts right up and doesn't seem to have full power until about half of full throttle is given. Also makes a slight whistling noise I heard last night while taking it out.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-8-2019, 1:05 PM
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The engine not running without partial clutch is not right, but that can be addressed after the idling issue.

Does the engine run on both cylinders if the revs are increased?
Does it only run on 1 cylinder at low revs?

2007 Kawasaki EX-500 Ninja
2003 Honda Goldwing
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2000 Kawasaki KDX 200
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-8-2019, 2:28 PM
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Whistling is probably a vacuum leak. Quite possible that one of the spigots atop each intake boot is open or the hose (or vacuum cap) has a bad leak. Soak the petcock diaphragm in Armorall. Same with the carb slide diaphragms if possible. Pilot jets are always suspect, as the orifice in them is tiny and very often blocked. Either or both cylinders will not idle if that is the case.



The clutch thing? Absolutely goofy. It sounds like the clutch must be constantly slipped to keep the revs up? Dude was either scammin you or was a total idiot. Maybe both.

I finally figured out why I like Ducatis: With their exhaust note and dry clutch, they sound almost like a Guzzi!
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-8-2019, 4:25 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry meant choke** choke had to be about a quarter engaged to ride when I first got it. Ever since cleaning the airbox and replacing filter and cleaning carbs and new plugs it runs without it just does the whole chugging thing. As for the vacuum leak will spray the rubber leading into carbs to see if any increase... Was thinking just to factor out the petcock to convert it to manual and block off the vacuum to carbs. The bike runs and idles okay it's just the chugging motion like it's running out of gas that bothers me. I'll post when I get the carb vacuum test done and convert the petcock to see if that helps at all.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-8-2019, 4:59 PM
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Gotta vacuum gauge or manometer? You can check the intake vacuum and you will need to balance (synch) the throttle plates anyway.

I finally figured out why I like Ducatis: With their exhaust note and dry clutch, they sound almost like a Guzzi!
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-8-2019, 7:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gortness View Post
Yes, I had them professionally cleaned.
This has wide-variation of possibilities. You'll want them completely refurbished/restored. Not just some backyard carb-cleaner spray job. That means:

- disassembling down to every last component, every last nut & bolt
- all rubber O-rings and seals replaced
- new jets installed
- all holes and passages in carb-body scrubbed and flossed
- soak in ultrasonic cleaner with radioactive caustic solvents
- micro soda-blasting @ 100000psi
- float-levels adjusted and wet-tested
- carb sync

Work-order for "carb cleaning" job should specify all above. If not, you carbs are not "clean". Only when carbs have been restored to brand-new factory-fresh condition will bike run like it did off showroom floor.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-8-2019, 7:31 PM Thread Starter
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Dannoxyz your right, it was a local mechanic that just started up a shop so I will find other options
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-8-2019, 8:39 PM Thread Starter
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Po18guy, I don't have a vacuum tester or know about the throttle stuff if you could explain. Was just gonna spray rubber tubes and see if it effects bike
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-8-2019, 9:17 PM
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Vacuum gauges are cheap and easy to use. Manometers (carb stix) run a little more, but are extremely useful in balancing carbs for smooth running. Here's a brand new SunPro (good brand) for less than $15. Two of them and a restrictor in each hose to steady the needles, and you have your carb balancing tool.

I finally figured out why I like Ducatis: With their exhaust note and dry clutch, they sound almost like a Guzzi!
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-8-2019, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
This has wide-variation of possibilities. You'll want them completely refurbished/restored. Not just some backyard carb-cleaner spray job. That means:

- disassembling down to every last component, every last nut & bolt
- all rubber O-rings and seals replaced
- new jets installed
- all holes and passages in carb-body scrubbed and flossed
- soak in ultrasonic cleaner with radioactive caustic solvents
- micro soda-blasting @ 100000psi
- float-levels adjusted and wet-tested
- carb sync

Work-order for "carb cleaning" job should specify all above. If not, you carbs are not "clean". Only when carbs have been restored to brand-new factory-fresh condition will bike run like it did off showroom floor.
member @Gortness.....coincidentally, I'm fully licensed to utilize "radioactive caustic solvents" and my compressor minimum setting happens to be 100,000 PSI ....seriously, would reasonably, economically meet your needs, as I have for fellow members here for years.

feel free to contact me at [email protected]

remember...Clean Carbs Matter

Custom Carb Service

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