how i remove OEM gaskets from the case? - Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 4:03 AM Thread Starter
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how i remove OEM gaskets from the case?

I've been at this on and off of a few days, trying my best not gouging the metal. The gasket has been on there since 2000. Any tips and tricks will be welcome.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 8:49 AM
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I would try using a different solvent. If you need to buy some, I would go with acetone or lacquer thinner. Should just pour what ever solvent you are using on a rag and then use that to wipe on the gasket area. But if you already have something along the lines of kerosene or mineral spirits, I would try that first. I believe one of the weaker solvents worked fine for me, but I did mine when the bike was much newer than yours.


And on a side note to @Xg45 and all EX owners:
You have just confirmed in your picture that along with me, and at least one other member whose name I can't remember, you have a pressure plate rubbing on your clutch cover. Don't make too much out of it, I don't believe it to be a serious issue, just an observation. I just also believe it to be an issue that runs much more ramped than most other members would think.


Edit: If you could would you put a picture of your pressure plate up, the side that faces the clutch cover.

2006 Ninja500R Purchased new July 2006; 0 miles. Miles as of January 2019; 102,137. It's a GO bike, not a SHOW bike.
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Last edited by bpe; 10-20-2019 at 8:53 AM. Reason: Picture request
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 9:28 AM
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I guess I should have added. The one thing I would be concerned about with the rubbing pressure plate is the metal shavings it makes that would get in the oil. I would hope the filter would just catch all this, but in case it doesn't. I just ground down the rubbed area on the clutch cover to give it more clearance with the pressure plate. Has been working fine for over 40,000 miles now, confirmed no more rubbing also. But I had also replaced the pressure plate for an unrelated reason, and the new OEM plates are now modified from the factory in a way that would address the rubbing issue. Hence the reason I think it may be a little common, for Kawasaki to come up with a fix. They have actually modified the clutch cover also, but I can't say as to how since I never got a new one. Thought I would try my fix first before paying $150 for a new cover.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Xg45 View Post
I've been at this on and off of a few days, trying my best not gouging the metal. The gasket has been on there since 2000. Any tips and tricks will be welcome.
are you using a proper gasket scraper tool? Really, this should be a 20 minute job, give or take a few.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 6:51 PM
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Tried and true method for a long time is a razor blade at a shallow angle. Be very careful to always scrape away from yourself and don't get your fingers in the way. A coworker was not careful recently with a razor blade and is lucky he does not have a severed tendon underneath the 8 stitches on his index finger.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 7:57 PM
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My secret weapon is a gasket scraper made by Snap-on (Bluepoint). It looks like a garden variety wooden handled putty knife but the blade is thick and stiff. I keep the business end very sharp and it scrapes like a single edge razor blade but with the handle there is something to hang on to and it provides a lot more control. I have yet to find a solvent that works very well on those rubberized gaskets when they are old and really baked on. Patience is the key, particularly if the part is aluminum. It helps if you can figure out some way to clamp it in a vice or otherwise secure it.
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 8:26 PM
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It helps if you can figure out some way to clamp it in a vice or otherwise secure it.
three long wood screws and a block of wood, place cover on wood, joint upwards apply the 3 screws in a triangle through the mounting holes to hold it secure. scrape off the old gasket with whatever you use. when clean move the screws to clean the rest.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-21-2019, 4:20 AM
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Good old methylene chloride. Aka Dichloromethane, it is used by Permatex in its gasket remover spray. Don't get it on paint or clear-coated surfaces, as it is also a primary ingredient in paint stripper. If you are lucky, a local paint store will still have some of the aerosol paint remover which contains the stuff. An amazing solvent (heavier than water, evaporates almost instantly, boiling point of 112ºF), it penetrates and softens the gasket. Less scraping. Less chance of dinging the gasket surface.


Apparently, there are health concerns regarding the stuff, so it is getting harder and harder to find. A little drizzle of it plasticwelds fairing cracks instantly. It's so dangerous that they use it to...


...decaffeinate green coffee beans.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-21-2019, 4:58 AM Thread Starter
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I bought the bike from a motorcycle part lot for $450, The last owner slid the bike in a low-speed accident. As of right now I'm trying to do a semi-full rebuild (everything but a full rebuild of the engine, that will come later when I move out of state.) The motor does run I run it for a couple of mines at idle speed to see if it's bricked or not. Thank you for pointing that out! This is the first rebuild project I ever have done. When I go to work on it next ill shave down the rubber. At this point, I will take note of all the cleaners you guys have given me and will try them all because that 20-year gasket is bake on there good.

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