Rear Wheel Removal and Installation - Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R
 
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-3-2010, 9:51 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Wheel Removal and Installation

Feel free to insert this into the wiki...

Here is the "short and sweet" version for removing and installing the rear wheel:

Remove Rear Wheel

Use center stand & put block under wheel. (Or your friend's dissertation (old hard cover book.))

1. Detach caliper from disc.
- 6mm hex key to disconnect caliper brake unit from silver caliper plate*.
- Don't mess with brake hose, just tie caliper unit up away from wheel. A short thin bungee cord works well.

2. Remove axle nut & axle.
- Pliers for cotter pin.
- 24mm socket wrench for axle nut.
- Dead blow hammer to lightly tap axle through.

3. Remove chain from sprocket.
- Loosening chain tension is optional at this point. (Use 12mm and 14mm wrenches if you do.)
- Push wheel slightly forward to give slack in chain, set chain on swingarm away from wheel.

4. Remove wheel, silver caliper plate, sprocket, & spacer.
- Remove silver caliper plate from the swingarm groove.
- Remove sprocket from left side of wheel (it just pops right out).
- Remove metal spacer from right side - caliper brake side - of wheel. (It will otherwise eventually end up popping out.)
- When setting wheel down, set on surface with brake disc facing up after removing sprocket, or lean against a surface.

Install Rear Wheel

1. Reinsert sprocket & spacer, set wheel in place, & put caliper brake unit (without caliper plate) in position.
- Optionally spray a very light coating of lubricant over rubber teeth at center of wheel if sprocket is tight to fit.
- Reinsert metal spacer into right side of wheel before setting wheel in place.
- Untie or remove bungee cord from caliper brake unit and set in place over brake disc of wheel.
- Optionally, before setting wheel in place, get inside to the ball bearings at center of wheel and use some ball bearing grease.

2. Put chain on sprocket.
- Loosen chain tension (if you haven't done so already).
- 12mm and 14mm wrenches for chain tension adjuster bolts on left and/or right sides.

3. Insert axle (partially), slide silver caliper plate into swingarm groove, finish inserting axle, & secure caliper.
- Push axle through beyond the sprocket and left inner rim of wheel, stopping at right inner rim.
- Slide caliper plate into swingarm groove.
- Insert axle rest of the way; dead blow hammer to lightly tap axle through.
- Optionally add axle nut but keep it loose for now.
- Tighten caliper brake unit with 6mm hex key.

4. Adjust chain tension, align wheel, tighten axle nut, & add cotter pin.
- 35-40mm (1.3-1.5") chain slack; use tape measure, ruler, or eye-ball-it.
- Align wheel with alignment measuring marks (plates) on both swingarms. Use additional alignment methods if you wish.
- 24mm socket on 1/2" drive torque wrench for tightening axle nut to 80 ft.lb.
- Insert cotter pin; pliers to keep it in place.
- Optionally lube chain if it has been a few hundred miles since your last chain lubing.

Finished with center stand & block/book; test ride around the block (away from traffic), check rear brake, feel the wheel alignment.

Last step:

Ride safe!

*The silver caliper plate is the plate of metal that horizontally slides into the swingarm groove between wheel and the actual caliper brake unit.



_________________________________________________
(Everything below is from the original version of this post addressing some questions about removal/installation.)
_________________________________________________



Bad timing for me to have to replace tires with 4th of the July weekend and finding out my new tire won't come in 'til around July 6th... I'm looking into saving a few bucks by removing/installing the wheel while I go ahead and pay someone to swap the tires out for me... and I run into a difference in steps provided between my Kawasaki Ninja 500 service manual supplement book and the ex-500 wiki regarding removal/install of rear wheel.

Kaw manual says, from chapter/page "9 - 4" -

Quote:
Rear Wheel Removal:

* Remove:
- Cotter Pin
- Axle Nut
- Axle

* Move the rear wheel to front, and remove the drive chain from the rear sprocket toward the left.

* Remove the rear wheel.

Rear Wheel Installation Notes:

* Engage the drive chain with the rear sprocket.

* Install the caliper bracket onto the swingarm stop.

* Insert the axle from the left side of the wheel, and tighten the axle nut. {Torque, rear axle nut, 80 ft.lb.}

* Adjust the drive chain slack after installation.

* Check the rear brake.
ex-500 wiki says, from New Chain & Sprockets page -

Quote:
{Rear Wheel Removal}

You're gonna need to get the wheel off so remove the cotter pin and axle nut. Note that you may find it easier to get everything back together if you remove the caliper first.

Loosen chain tensioners on either side to relieve some of the pressure off the chain.

Last thing to crank before we hike her up, the rear brake bracket - go easy on these Alan-nuts, they strip easy.

Now I dont' have a swing arm stand and I ditched my center stand for my pipe, so I use a floor jack under the spring with a small piece of wood.

Now support the wheel your right hand and/or right foot and slide out the axle with your left hand.

Always a good idea to tie up your brake caliper when you take it off the rotor so you don't strain the brake hoose.

{Rear Wheel Installation}

Now it's time to get the chain tension right - you want it to have about an inch of play total, so .5inch on each side.
You also want to make sure you align the back wheel properly - if you don't your handling is going to suck a$$ and your tire is going to get jacked.

The easiest way I was taught to do this, is find those triangle imprints on your tire and measure them to a fixed point on the swing arm and make sure they are uniform on each side:

Now put everything back and tighten all :
- crank cover {n/a (for front sprocket, not rear wheel)}
- axle nut
- brake bracket
- etc.
My question about the discrepancy is with the rear wheel removal after removing the axle, where the manual says to move the wheel forward (giving slack in the chain so it can be removed), remove the chain, then the wheel; while the wiki page says to loosen the "chain looseners" (aka, chain adjuster locknuts) before removing the wheel: Do the chain adjust locknuts have to be adjusted to loosen the chain before removing the wheel or can that just be bypassed all together and simply go with the manual's step, "move the rear wheel to front, and remove the drive chain..."?

Also, this next bit isn't about discrepancy but just me wanting to make sure I understand the wiki steps clearly -

After removing pin/nut/axle the wiki says, "Note that you may find it easier to get everything back together if you remove the caliper first." Are these the right steps (the 7 steps below) for removing that caliper?

Quote:
1. Locate the rubber grommet holding the brake line in place along the swing arm, and remove by sliding one end out at a time.
2. Remove brake hose from the hook on the swing arm.
3. The brake hose removed from the hook.
4. Slightly loosen the nut that attaches the brake hose to the caliper, do not completely remove yet. Tighten the bolt only by hand so fluid does not leak. The reason for doing this now is that the nut is really hard to loosen (or tighten) when the caliper is not attached to the bike.
5. Unscrew the rear reservoir cap.
6. Using the 6mm hex key socket, remove the 2 hex bolts on the caliper. Now you can slide the caliper away from the disc, leaving the brake hose attached. Be careful not to put stress on the brake hose.
7. At this point you can lightly sand the rotor to remove any "glaze."
If all of those steps are the correct ones for removing caliper, how much easier does it really make it to put everything back together?

It seems like it'd make it more complicated than necessary. I don't know yet, haven't done this, but am curious if anyone has tried removing/installing their rear wheels both with and without doing the above steps and can say how much of a difference they make.

The Kaw service manual reads, on chapter/page 11 - 9, regarding caliper removal/installation:

Quote:
Caliper Removal:

* Loosen the banjo bolt at the brake hose lower end, and tighten it loosely.

* Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts, and detach the caliper from the disc.

* Unscrew the banjo bold and remove the brake hose from the caliper.

Caliper Installation Notes:

* Install the caliper, and the brake hose lower end:
- Replace the washers that are on each side of hose fitting with new ones.

* Tighten the banjo bolt. {Torque, caliper mounting bolts and brake hose banjo bolt, 18 ft.lb.}

* Bleed the brake line.

* Check the fluid level in the brake reservoirs.

* Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.
If including the whole remove-rear-brake-caliper steps, does the brake hose have to be removed from the caliper? It looks like some brake fluid may leak/spill if the hose is removed. The manual adds hose disconnection while the wiki page looks like it says don't disconnect the hose.

Regarding the wiki pages mention of chain tension, "...you want it to have about an inch of play total, so .5inch on each side."... I'm sure chain slack has come up a gazillion times in here but the manual reads 35 to 40 mm (which I think is about 1.3 to 1.5 inches), and the wiki mentions 1 inch. Does that seem a little tight? My hunch is that is better to have the chain a "little" loose instead of a little tight. On the grand scheme of things, the manual's low end - about 1.3 inches (35mm) - is pretty dang close to 1 inch, so I'm guessing one doesn't have to be too picky with those particular numbers, though still thinking just a "smidgen" looser might be better.

The wiki page says, "You also want to make sure you align the back wheel properly..."

I've heard people say don't trust the markers on the swingarm.

How reliable are those markers?

The manual says (on chapter/page "10 - 5"), regarding wheel alignment, to optionally use "...the straightedge or string method."

I can't find anywhere how those 2 methods work - how do we use them to inspect wheel alignment?

How reliable is this approach, mentioned on the wiki page, "The easiest way I was taught to do this, is find those triangle imprints on your tire and measure them to a fixed point on the swing arm and make sure they are uniform on each side"? The picture shows the individual using measuring tape for the distance with 2 points on the left side tire-to-swingarm and 2 points on right side tire-to-swingarm.

Edit-

I found the "string method" on this site's wiki for wheel alignment:
https://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...e_String_Thing)


...still not sure about the "straightedge method".

Also, what size cotter pins should I get for my back wheel?

And, is this the right page for, if in the future, I get around to taking care of putting on new tires myself:
https://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php/Changing_Tires

Thank you.

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-3-2010, 9:59 PM
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation Questions (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean_
Do the chain adjust locknuts have to be adjusted to loosen the chain before removing the wheel or can that just be bypassed all together and simply go with the manual's step, "move the rear wheel to front, and remove the drive chain..."?
How are you going to move the wheel forward with the locknuts tightened up against the swingarm butt plate? Think about it.

Quote:
If all of those steps are the correct ones for removing caliper, how much easier does it really make it to put everything back together?
Those caliper removal steps are stupid. Look at it. Just remove the two allen screws, lift the caliper up, and put it aside. You can slide out the caliper bracket after the axle is removed. Don't remove the brake hose, don't remove the master cylinder cover.


I'm not answering the alignment question. Screw that overwritten jazz.

edit: Ok fine. The markers can be reliable, but should be double checked. If you use them, make sure you account for any "play" in the metal brackets as their holes usually move 1 or 2 mm on the axle.
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-3-2010, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation Questions (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pogo
How are you going to move the wheel forward with the locknuts tightened up against the swingarm butt plate? Think about it.
Right, well, that's going off what the service manual says - nothing about loosening the chain before removing the wheel but to move the wheel forward. Since I haven't actually removed the wheel yet I don't currently know how far forward the wheel will go (after removing the axle, before removing the chain).

By locknuts, are you referring to the adjusters for the chain? My guess is that after I remove the axle nut and axle that the tension of the chain adjuster locknuts would be somewhat irrelevant, at least as far as however much physical space is in front of the wheel for pushing it forward (to remove the chain). I don't know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pogo
Those caliper removal steps are stupid.
Well, I don't know about stupid - a wiki page of instructions (or even a service manual) can't go wrong by being more detailed about the steps provided - though what I'm looking for, personally, is the short-hand version. Really, it doesn't look that complicated, though of course I want to make sure I have the steps right before I remove and install the rear wheel.

Regarding wheel alignment, I'm figuring it wouldn't hurt to use multiple methods of inspecting that.

Another question... after removing the wheel but before taking it to someone to swap tires for me, should I remove the sprocket or leave it on? (Does it really matter?)

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-3-2010, 10:51 PM
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation Questions (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean_
Right, well, that's going off what the service manual says - nothing about loosening the chain before removing the wheel but to move the wheel forward. Since I haven't actually removed the wheel yet I don't currently know how far forward the wheel will go (after removing the axle, before removing the chain).

By locknuts, are you referring to the adjusters for the chain? My guess is that after I remove the axle nut and axle that the tension of the chain adjuster locknuts would be somewhat irrelevant, at least as far as however much physical space is in front of the wheel for pushing it forward (to remove the chain). I don't know.
That's why I insinuated that you think about it for a second The chain cannot be removed without moving the wheel forward, but you cannot actually move the wheel forward without loosening those locknuts (after the axle) because those locknuts pull the tire backward! Therefore, without loosening those locknuts, your wheel is as forward as it can go.

But here's the thing. Once you remove the axle, the axle adjustment system just falls out, because it's held in place by the axle. So... the locknuts don't exactly have to be screwed with anyways.

Quote:
Well, I don't know about stupid - a wiki page of instructions (or even a service manual) can't go wrong by being more detailed about the steps provided - though what I'm looking for, personally, is the short-hand version. Really, it doesn't look that complicated, though of course I want to make sure I have the steps right before I remove and install the rear wheel.
The steps regarding loosening the hose and removing the master cylinder cover are, again, stupid. Just remove the caliper and use a small piece of thin rope to tie it aside so that it's not hanging.

Quote:
Regarding wheel alignment, I'm figuring it wouldn't hurt to use multiple methods of inspecting that.
Correct. On my bike, if my measurement plates are snuggly pressed rearward to remove any "play," they are actually dead-on accurate. I use them now and I use the string thing just to confirm my alignment, even though I don't have to at this point.

Quote:
Another question... after removing the wheel but before taking it to someone to swap tires for me, should I remove the sprocket or leave it on? (Does it really matter?)
Your sprocket will fall out anyways, since the cush drive doesn't do much of anything to actually keeping it stuck on the wheel. Just keep in mind there is a metal bushing in there that will also fall out, but you might not know it because the grease will cause it to stick. You don't want to lose that.
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-3-2010, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation Questions (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

So, if I simplify all of it would it look like this?...

Remove wheel:
{0. Use center stand.}
1. Remove axle nut.
2. Remove axle.
3. Loosen & remove chain.
4. Remove wheel.
5. Detach caliper from disc.
{6. Tie caliper unit up to frame.}

...get new tire...

Install wheel:
{0. "Untie" caliper from frame.}
1. Set wheel in place.
2. Put chain on sprocket.
3. Reattach caliper to disc.
4. Insert axle & axle nut (not cotter pin (not yet)). {axle nut = 80 ft.lb.}
5. Adjust chain tension & align wheel (then add cotter pin).
{6. Finished with center stand; Check/test rear brake.}
[Edit: new list order is in another reply in this thread.]

That's kind of a hybrid of the wiki and manual. It's slightly modified after watching these videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4T1tbEBi4VI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjMSsT8Yy_M
(That's a different bike, though the concept looks like it still applies.)

Anything backwards or ineffective in the list order?

The 2nd video linked above says to put a light layer of anti-seize on the axle before putting it and the wheel back on. Would a very light amount of "moly" be just as effective?

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-3-2010, 11:02 PM
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation Questions (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

Caliper should be removed before removing the tire. The way the directions have it, it's in the way and would serve no purpose whatsoever to take it off after removing the wheel.

I'd get a block of wood or something to put under the rear wheel, otherwise it'll put tension on the axle while you try to remove it, and then the wheel will drop down.
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-3-2010, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation Questions (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pogo
Therefore, without loosening those locknuts, your wheel is as forward as it can go.
Good to know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pogo
So... the locknuts don't exactly have to be screwed with anyways.
Ah, so basically everything's gotta be reset upon reinstallation of rear wheel, regardless? (With the axle adjustment system falling out and all.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pogo
The steps regarding loosening the hose and removing the master cylinder cover are, again, stupid. Just remove the caliper and use a small piece of thin rope to tie it aside so that it's not hanging.
Actually, yeah - good point - if simply removing the wheel, then messing with the hose is pretty stupid. I don't remember it mentioning cylinder cover removal, though I see the "remove rear reservoir cap", which I'm guessing is unnecessary since we're not getting into all of that.

Maybe the hose removal is in the manual to prevent any undue force pulling/tugging at the hose after caliper removal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pogo
Your sprocket will fall out anyways, since the cush drive doesn't do much of anything to actually keeping it stuck on the wheel. Just keep in mind there is a metal bushing in there that will also fall out, but you might not know it because the grease will cause it to stick. You don't want to lose that.
Good to know. And I'll keep an eye out for the metal bushing.

Is it effective to put a very light spray of lubricant (the 2nd video says a silicone type) over the rubber "teeth" in the center of the wheel before putting the sprocket back on the wheel? (Right now I only have a can of chain lube. I'm guessing that probably isn't good for the rubber teeth. Any recommendations?)

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-3-2010, 11:18 PM
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation Questions (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

Those rubber teeth take impacts while riding. There's no reason to lube them that I can think of. I think on other motorcycles that have a much more snug cush drive, it might help in putting the sprocket back on without resistance. You'll see what I mean when you take the wheel off.

Theoretically, if your locknuts don't loosen themselves, you could put the adjusters back into the swingarm and have the wheel perfectly aligned from the get-go. You can try this, of course, but check your alignment and chain tension anyways.

And you asked about chain tension at some point. 1.5" is the tension on this bike.

And a note on the caliper as well... after removing the axle, the caliper bracket is no longer held in place aside from a protruding groove on the swingarm (again, you'll see what i mean after removal)... so removing the caliper after the axle is out would be a hassle, and possibly even damaging if slip. So there's another reason to straight up remove the caliper itself before removing the axle/wheel.
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-3-2010, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation Questions (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pogo
Caliper should be removed before removing the tire. The way the directions have it, it's in the way and would serve no purpose whatsoever to take it off after removing the wheel.
That make sense. So more like this?...

Remove wheel:
(Use center stand & put block under wheel.)
1. Remove axle nut.
2. Remove axle.
3. Loosen & remove chain.
4. Detach caliper from disc. (Tie caliper unit up to away from wheel.)
5. Remove wheel.

...get new tire...

Install wheel:
1. Set wheel in place.
2. Put chain on sprocket.
3. Insert axle & axle nut (not cotter pin (not yet)). {axle nut = 80 ft.lb.}
4. Adjust chain tension & align wheel (then add cotter pin).
5. Reattach caliper to disc.
(Finished with center stand; Check/test rear brake.)
[Edit: new list order is in another reply in this thread.]

I swapped "reattach caliper" in the install steps too, if that's easier to deal with after the tire & axle are already in place.

Edit- whoops, just saw your reply... just a sec, gonna scan the order again (re: caliper going off before axle goes out).

Edit 2-

Okay, how's this:


Remove wheel:
(Use center stand & put block under wheel.)
1. Detach caliper from disc. (Tie caliper unit up to away from wheel.)
2. Remove axle nut.
3. Remove axle.
4. Loosen & remove chain.
5. Remove wheel.

...get new tire...

Install wheel:
1. Set wheel in place.
2. Put chain on sprocket.
3. Insert axle & axle nut (not cotter pin (not yet)). {axle nut = 80 ft.lb.}
4. Adjust chain tension & align wheel (then add cotter pin).
5. Reattach caliper to disc.
(Finished with center stand & block; Check/test rear brake.)

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-3-2010, 11:28 PM
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation Questions (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

That edited set is correct. You're good to go.

I should also mention that "set wheel in place" includes putting the caliper bracket in position before sliding the axle all the way through. Get the axle through the sprocket and rim but make sure you slide that caliper bracket into the groove on the swingarm and then line in up to put the axle through. Again, that will make more sense when you see it.

You'll be alright.
post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-3-2010, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation Questions (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pogo
That edited set is correct. You're good to go.

I should also mention that "set wheel in place" includes putting the caliper bracket in position before sliding the axle all the way through. Get the axle through the sprocket and rim but make sure you slide that caliper bracket into the groove on the swingarm and then line in up to put the axle through. Again, that will make more sense when you see it.

You'll be alright.
Cool.

Let's try a small revision -

Remove wheel:
(Use center stand & put block under wheel.)
1. Detach caliper from disc. (Tie caliper unit up to away from wheel.)
2. Remove axle nut & axle.
3. Loosen & remove chain.
4. Remove wheel.

...get new tire...

Install wheel:
1. Set wheel in place.
2. Put chain on sprocket.
3. Insert axle through sprocket & rim.
4. Put caliper in position.
6. Insert axle the rest of the way & add axle nut (not cotter pin (not yet)). {axle nut torque = 80 ft.lb.}
7. Secure caliper to disc (tighten bolts). {caliper bolts torque = 18 ft.lb.}
8. Adjust chain tension & align wheel (then add cotter pin).
(Finished with center stand & block; Check/test rear brake.)

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-3-2010, 11:51 PM
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation Questions (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

Note that when I say "caliper bracket" I'm talking about the big aluminum piece that the actual caliper bolts on to.

Now stop typing up directions and go remove your wheel.
post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-4-2010, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation Questions (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pogo
Note that when I say "caliper bracket" I'm talking about the big aluminum piece that the actual caliper bolts on to.

Now stop typing up directions and go remove your wheel.
Ohhh. Heh, yeah I'm on to Variation #1,355.

I'm actually waiting 'til Monday night to remove the wheel, with the tire coming in on Tuesday morning (hopefully!).

(Bike's out in an apartment parking area - minimizing the time it has as a "unicycle" (and probably putting the cover on it to reduce chances of people futzing with it while the back wheel's off.))

I could try this...

Remove wheel:
(Use center stand & put block under wheel.)
1. Detach caliper from disc. (Tie caliper unit up away from wheel.)
2. Remove axle nut & axle.
3. Loosen & remove chain.
4. Remove wheel.

(remove sprocket)
...get new tire...
(reattach sprocket)

Install wheel:
1. Set wheel in place & put caliper in position.
2. Put chain on sprocket.
3. Insert axle partially (sprocket & rim).
4. Slide caliper into swingarm groove. {caliper bolts = 18 ft.lb.}
5. Insert axle rest of the way & axle nut (not cotter pin (not yet)). {axle nut = 80 ft.lb.}
6. Adjust chain tension & align wheel (then add cotter pin).
(Finished with center stand & block; Check/test rear brake.)

...maybe someone can make an addition to the "removing and installing rear wheel" wiki page - instead of just a link to the other page for the reinstall process - and add a finalized version of these steps. This page, in particular, could use the update:
https://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...d_Installation

Edit/question-
Any idea what size the cotter pin is?
If there's not a specific size I can probably just take the current one in to the store and match it up.

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-4-2010, 12:20 AM
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation Questions (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

The linked page is actually pretty complete already.

Cotter pin is... just a cotter pin. Takes yours to the store and get one like it.
post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-4-2010, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation Questions (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pogo
The linked page is actually pretty complete already.

Cotter pin is... just a cotter pin. Takes yours to the store and get one like it.
Cool beans. Hey thank you for all your help with this stuff!

The current "rear wheel removal/installation" wiki page is just a "wheel removal" page right now, with a link to a "new chain and sprockets" page for install and a note from ShadesOfGray for adding the "wheel installation" section later.

I added this thread to help out a little bit with that:

https://www.ex-500.com/index.php/topic,26097.0.html

I think ShadesOfGray might need the wrench sizes for these things. I thought they were there for the wheel-removal... oh wait... I see the page consists of about 25% of the process for both wheels:

Currently it has removing the front wheel.
It doesn't currently have installing front wheel, removing rear wheel, or installing rear wheel.

Well, this thread (here) only addresses the rear wheel removal and installation, not the front wheel installation.

Anyway, it'll be good to have both remove & install for both wheels on a wiki page entitled "Wheel Removal and Installation".

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-4-2010, 2:41 AM
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation Questions (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

If you wanna link this thread, edit your heading post with the correct info instead of the questions
post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 7-10-2010, 7:21 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Rear Wheel Removal/Installation (and Discrepancy with Wiki vs Manual)

Done. (See original post.)

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