Almost forgot about this. So, it's been a while since I've actually had an EX come through my garage which actually kept its CA emissions stuff for longer than about 10 minutes and I removed mine many years ago, so I'm not 100% positive on the exact hose routing, but I do have a bin chock full of removed emissions crap, so I can show you what needs to be removed and describe where to find it. What hoses need to come off will become apparent as they'll no longer go to anything.
Here's a picture of all the components which are emissions related which you will be removing. The big Y shaped thing of tubes at the top of the photo is the main component of the PAIR system which needs to come off, though it isn't part of the CA emissions stuff. The Toddlamp PAIR block off kit which Zerofret linked takes care of that. I didn't take a picture of the reed valve caps on the valve cover which also need to come off as a part of that, but I think you'll figure out what those are pretty quick.
The other 5 components are the meat and potatoes of the CA emissions stuff. What I don't have pictured is the several feet of vacuum tubing you'll be removing as well.
The biggest part, in the lower right, is the charcoal canister. That's the first thing you see when you pull the fuel tank. It sits on the bottom side of the upper fuel tank bracket.
The U shaped bracket above it in the picture is what holds it in place.
The smaller cylinder with vacuum ports coming out of it to the left of the charcoal canister is the separator, which is attached to the same bracket as the charcoal canister.
The plastic shroud to the left of the charcoal canister bracket sits around the separator.
The last part in the lower left is just a pair of metal tubes which route vacuum lines from the front bottom side of the fuel tank, around the frame and back to the emissions stuff. It is bolted to the frame behind the head tube (steer tube).
Take all that stuff and throw it in the trash. Then, take all the vacuum lines which attached to any of that stuff and throw it away as well. Actually, save the vacuum tubes, they make good spares for any of your future vacuum tube needs on any motorcycle or car/truck.
Once all that is off, you will only have one vacuum tube left and that goes from the left carb to the fuel petcock. The vacuum port will need to be capped off. If you buy the full Toodlamp PAIR block off kit (which I highly recommend), that comes with a good quality vacuum cap. Then remove the reed valve caps on the valve cover and install the block off plates. Then, install the cap into the front top edge of the airbox. You will have successfully removed the PAIR system.
On to finalizing the removal of the CA emissions stuff. There's a few things to tidy up. First, one of the two vacuum ports on the front bottom edge needs to be blocked off. The one with the red dot next to it is for positive pressure. The one with the blue dot is negative pressure (vacuum). Block off the one with the red dot. If you do not, the tank will occasionally develop a slight pressure and blow off, along with some gasoline, onto the top of your engine, or onto you at higher speeds. Don't worry about the fuel tank bleeding that pressure off, fuel consumption takes care of that while running and it'll bleed the pressure off slowly on its own at a stop. The blue dot tube needs to remain open to equalize the vacuum created by consuming fuel as there is no fuel pump. The vacuum will quickly overcome the force of gravity.
Next, one of the vacuum tubes off the charcoal canister goes to the front of the airbox on the lower right side. Remove the small rubber elbow in there and put a couple strips of whatever durable tape you have (duct tape, gaffer tape, electrical tape, etc.). I used black electrical tape as it is well camouflaged.
Functionally speaking, that does it for full emissions removal. Additionally, I like to chop off the charcoal canister bracket off the bottom of the fuel tank bracket. No point in keeping that big, clumsy chunk of metal in there anymore.