Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment - Page 4 - Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R
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post #76 of 99 (permalink) Old 3-31-2011, 2:50 PM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

Updated PDF is attached

I also updated the wiki with pictures and more info:
https://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...nce_adjustment

EDIT: removed dead link to file, uploaded PDF as attachment instead
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 2006_EX500_Valve_Clearance_Adjustment_updated_2010_1.2.1.pdf (1.69 MB, 211 views)
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post #77 of 99 (permalink) Old 4-2-2011, 12:09 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

Finally did the valve adjustment and the bike runs great, much smoother and started without the choke (it was 85F today) and rode like a totally different bike. Cylinder #1 intakes were slightly loose exhaust were very loose, #2 intake and ex. were very tight . It's been decades since I have owned anything with an adjustable valve train and this has to be probably the easiest valve adjustment I've done and very rewarding.
Thanks for all the great info!

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post #78 of 99 (permalink) Old 5-31-2011, 3:55 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

I just did this last week, and one thing was off for me...the left cylinder, the one when the 'T' is at the top. The wiki says to make sure that the cam lobes are pointing up, which they weren't. Rotating 360 degrees did not change anything - same arrangement. I don't know, maybe things were connected differently in the engine or something, but I just followed the logic and checked the clearances when the valves were not being pushed down by the lobes, without worrying what was showing through the upper port.

The other cylinder (C showing), worked as expected with both lobes being up.

Hope this helps someone...

[quote author=FOG link=topic=34059.msg506644#msg506644 date=1315092156]<br />"The only part of the carb I couldn't get to are the jets inside the deep hole."<br /><br />The only part of the carb that needs cleaning are the jets down in the deep hole.<br /><br />FOG<br />[/quote]<br /><br />EPIC FOG!
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post #79 of 99 (permalink) Old 6-1-2011, 12:00 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by luco.vico
I just did this last week, and one thing was off for me...the left cylinder, the one when the 'T' is at the top. The wiki says to make sure that the cam lobes are pointing up, which they weren't. Rotating 360 degrees did not change anything - same arrangement.
You also need to check the markings on the gears. One 'T' setting will have a O on one gear, and nothing on the other. A full 360 spin will show something different on the gears, I believe EX and IN. It takes two full revolutions of the bolt to complete one intake/exhaust cycle, so there definitely is a difference between the two.
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post #80 of 99 (permalink) Old 6-1-2011, 2:38 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

I was expecting markings to be different on the gear, and every time "T" was showing I saw a dot on one gear and nothing on the other. I'm not sure if I did something wrong...I guess I'll wait 24 months for the next valve adjustment.

[quote author=FOG link=topic=34059.msg506644#msg506644 date=1315092156]<br />"The only part of the carb I couldn't get to are the jets inside the deep hole."<br /><br />The only part of the carb that needs cleaning are the jets down in the deep hole.<br /><br />FOG<br />[/quote]<br /><br />EPIC FOG!
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post #81 of 99 (permalink) Old 6-1-2011, 8:07 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

The manuals have mistakes, the how to article here has mistakes too. Just listen to fog. There is absolutely no need to pay any attention to the timing marks. No reason to open the little circle in the gen cover. Just turn the lobes skyward. It can't get any easier. Whoever told us to look at timing marks should be dipped in shit and rolled in peanuts.



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post #82 of 99 (permalink) Old 1-19-2012, 5:58 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

Thanks FloridaEX500, not gonna bother with the timing marks

Just gonna make sure I account for all dowels and Ferrells before closing up the surgery.

My luck is already at the bottom of the barrel for this bike.... almost paid off. lol
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post #83 of 99 (permalink) Old 8-19-2012, 9:06 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

any need to use rtv sealant on the gasket?
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post #84 of 99 (permalink) Old 8-19-2012, 9:55 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

i did not use it twice, goes perfectly dry
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post #85 of 99 (permalink) Old 8-21-2012, 9:21 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

I made some changes to the procedure that worked for me. Might not work for everyone.

I just did my valves yesterday, and this time I made some changes to the procedure presented here that made it a lot easier, if maybe a little more time consuming. I completely removed the upper fairing and lower cowl. Once you have all the bolts out, and have it slid forward, all you have to do is disconnect that one red connector, and slip it right off.

1. First, I do not have the EPAIR valve system anymore, so that was not an issue. If you have this system, and choose to keep it, I discovered that it would be a lot easier to remove the hoses AT THE REED VALVE COVERS, rather than at the 3 way valve itself. Then remove the small vacuum line from the right carb at the 3 way valve, and pull the hose that goes into the grommet in the airbox out. That way you can get the whole assembly off the engine and out of your way.

2. In addition to the right coil and bracket, also remove the left coil and bracket, and tie them out of the way. I used a mini bungee cord. I also tied that bundle of wiring by the steering head up and out of the way. Before removing the bolts securing the coil brackets, first loosen the acorn nut on the center fairing mount bracket right in front of the steering head, to take the tension off the coil bracket front bolts that also go through the fairing bracket.

3. Then, after removing the screws that hold the coolant tubes to the valve cover, and carefully pulling them out, remove the entire coolant fill neck/thermostat housing, with the 2 hoses attached to it. This will get the whole thing out of the way. It is only held in place by 2 10mm bolts. It will be necessary to remove the radiator hose and coolant overflow hose from the fill neck/thermostat, and disconnect the temp sensor wire.

4. It is not necessary to remove the spark plugs, and I do not recommend doing so, as it makes it more likely dirt could get down inside the cylinders. The engine turns over very easy with them in place. ONLY turn the engine clockwise.

5. It has already been mentioned that you do not need to worry about any timing marks, just get the piston to TDC on the compression stroke on the cylinder you are working on. You will know when it is, because the "bump" on both the intake and exhaust cams will be pointing straight up. You can do all 4 valves on that cylinder, then rotate the crankshaft CLOCKWISE until the other cylinder is in the same position, and do those 4 valves.


6. Now here is the BIG one, that makes it MUCH easier to get the cover off and back on. It was already mentioned about removing the choke cable from the carbs. This time I also removed the throttle assembly, and both cables at the throttle sleeve. I pulled them completely back out of the way of the cover, and laid them where the seat goes, so you do not have to try to wiggle the cover out from underneath them, as it is a VERY TIGHT fit. It is such a tight fit, that if the little dowels are in the valve cover, they could fall out while you are fighting with it. Both mine were in the cover. I removed them and placed them in the head before replacing the cover. Once you have the EPAIR system, coolant hoses, and throttle cables completely out of the way, the cover just lifts right off, with nothing for it to hang up on. This eliminates a lot of frustration. I took the opportunity to lube both throttle cables before putting them back.


7. I have adjusted valves on a lot of engines, some seem to stay adjusted forever (like on my Vino 125, 15,000 miles with no adjustment and still in spec) and some don't, like the EX500. All valves I have ever adjusted have tightened up as the valve/seat wears, decreasing the clearance. On the EX, I recommend setting the valves to the loose side of spec. .009 0n the exhaust, and .007 on the intake. This will increase the mileage before they become out of spec (too tight) again.

The valve cover bolts are shoulder bolts, and bottom out, so there is no need to torque them. You can feel them bottom out, at that point, STOP. I have never needed to use a torque wrench to do valves. I used a small stubby screwdriver and a small box end 10mm end wrench to adjust the valves and tighten the locknuts, then snugged up the locknuts a little bit more with a 10mm socket, extension, and 1/4" drive ratchet, and rechecked the clearances. A couple had tightened slightly, I did them over again. I made one last check of all valves before putting the cover back, then reinstalled the throttle cables, choke cable, filler neck/thermostat housing/coolant hoses/tubes, and coil/bracket assemblies. Don't forget to tighten the acorn nut by the steering head. If you are going to keep it, put the EPAIR system back last. It just slips in place, no tools are needed. Turned engine one complete revolution with the 14mm socket to make sure nothing was binding, started it up, and filled it up with new coolant. Went for a 10 mile ride, everything felt and sounded fine, brought it back, changed oil and filter, put lower cowl back on.

I refuse to give up the thrill of living for the relative safety of existing. Nick Ienatsch
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post #86 of 99 (permalink) Old 6-23-2013, 5:04 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaEX500
The manuals have mistakes, the how to article here has mistakes too. Just listen to fog. There is absolutely no need to pay any attention to the timing marks. No reason to open the little circle in the gen cover. Just turn the lobes skyward. It can't get any easier. Whoever told us to look at timing marks should be dipped in shit and rolled in peanuts.
After reading through this thread piecemeal as I attempted to adjust my
valves, I finally gave up and just adjusted each valve with the lobe 180 degrees
off the rocker surface--just like FloridaEX500 suggests. I came back here to offer my
two cents and happened upon this post. I feel better. Were I a moderator,
I would delete everything in this thread except the above post. Parts of the
pdf/thread were helpful, but overall they were detrimental.
I might add, however, that I don't understand the importance of the peanuts.
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post #87 of 99 (permalink) Old 6-23-2013, 10:03 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by FeverReducer
Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaEX500
The manuals have mistakes, the how to article here has mistakes too. Just listen to fog. There is absolutely no need to pay any attention to the timing marks. No reason to open the little circle in the gen cover. Just turn the lobes skyward. It can't get any easier. Whoever told us to look at timing marks should be dipped in shit and rolled in peanuts.
After reading through this thread piecemeal as I attempted to adjust my
valves, I finally gave up and just adjusted each valve with the lobe 180 degrees
off the rocker surface--just like FloridaEX500 suggests. I came back here to offer my
two cents and happened upon this post. I feel better. Were I a moderator,
I would delete everything in this thread except the above post. Parts of the
pdf/thread were helpful, but overall they were detrimental.
I might add, however, that I don't understand the importance of the peanuts.
the icing on the cake, man!

ďBeing shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba....Ē quote Hunter S Thompson

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post #88 of 99 (permalink) Old 11-17-2013, 9:47 PM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

Like a couple of other who posted here, I can't freakin loosen the screws holding the coolant tubes to the engine. Any help?
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post #89 of 99 (permalink) Old 11-17-2013, 10:24 PM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by maldyy
Like a couple of other who posted here, I can't freakin loosen the screws holding the coolant tubes to the engine. Any help?
There's no special trick, just use ordinary methods for loosening tough screws.

  • Try WD-40 or other "bolt-loosening" spray (I've found B'Laster PB Penetrating Catalyst to be particularly effective)
  • use a bigger screwdriver
  • find a screwdriver bit (and perhaps an extension) for your socket wrench, so you can get more torque


Just be careful not to strip the screw head...[list]
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post #90 of 99 (permalink) Old 11-17-2013, 10:29 PM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

too late...
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post #91 of 99 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 7:29 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

Use an impact screwdriver



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post #92 of 99 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 10:44 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

Done and valve adjusted. Is there a part number for the coolant tube screws or should I just go to NAPA?
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post #93 of 99 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 10:57 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

I would go to ace hardware before napa.



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post #94 of 99 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 9:56 PM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

Those phillips head screws are a royal pain, so I went ahead and replaced them with 10mm stainless bolts from Ace. No more stripped screws.

- David

1990 EX500 - 144,000 miles as of November 2nd, 2019
1993 Ducati 900SS - The real canyon carver
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post #95 of 99 (permalink) Old 1-24-2014, 8:37 PM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

My screws holding the coolant tubes in already had damaged heads.wd40 and a small pair of molegrips were helpful to loosen them to the point where I could remove with screwdriver.Any decent hardware shop should sell replacements.
The cooling tube rubber O rings : Will any ones do if they are similar size, or are they made of a more heat resistant rubber ?I,ve got heat resistant grease to assist relocation etc.
You can,t get kwackie parts here ( Langkawi,Malaysia )generally, so I usually order from UK which means postage charges doubles the cost.( I usually order multiple items )
One coolant tube is proving to be difficult to remove and I had to bend the support bracket to remove the rocker cover.luckily,the two locating dowels/pins did,nt drop out. would be far better for our nerves if they were stuck in the head or screwed in so they couldn,t come out...
Would you experienced guys recommend I fight the damn cooling tube until it does come out ,or leave it as it is and just bend the mounting bracket back down when cover reinstated ?
Rocker/valve cover gasket- do they usually reseal ok, or do I definitely have to fit a new one ( 2-3 week delivery time ) ?
regards bobT
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post #96 of 99 (permalink) Old 1-24-2014, 9:12 PM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobT
My screws holding the coolant tubes in already had damaged heads.wd40 and a small pair of molegrips were helpful to loosen them to the point where I could remove with screwdriver.Any decent hardware shop should sell replacements.
The cooling tube rubber O rings : Will any ones do if they are similar size, or are they made of a more heat resistant rubber ?I,ve got heat resistant grease to assist relocation etc.
You can,t get kwackie parts here ( Langkawi,Malaysia )generally, so I usually order from UK which means postage charges doubles the cost.( I usually order multiple items )
One coolant tube is proving to be difficult to remove and I had to bend the support bracket to remove the rocker cover.luckily,the two locating dowels/pins did,nt drop out. would be far better for our nerves if they were stuck in the head or screwed in so they couldn,t come out...
Would you experienced guys recommend I fight the damn cooling tube until it does come out ,or leave it as it is and just bend the mounting bracket back down when cover reinstated ?
Rocker/valve cover gasket- do they usually reseal ok, or do I definitely have to fit a new one ( 2-3 week delivery time ) ?
regards bobT
As I recall, I just went out to a hardware store, got a bag of o-rings the same size for something like a buck or two, and 30k miles later, I've had no issues.
For the dowel pins, I myself haven't altered them in any way, but I hear JB Weld is a great way to glue them to the head to ensure they go nowhere.
Those coolant tubes WILL come out. Work it until it does. Vaguely Unpleasant case, you have to replace the tube from mashing it too much with pliers, but trust me, it will eventually give way.
As for the valve cover gasket, so long as whoever removed it prior didn't use some funky sealing stuff, should be fine. On my old engine, the valve cover gasket was never messed with, so it would always seal fine so long as the mating surfaces were clean. My new engine, however, the previous owner thought it would be cute to use some weird sealant stuff that became brittle over time, which then stuck to the gasket and now it won't seal properly.

- David

1990 EX500 - 144,000 miles as of November 2nd, 2019
1993 Ducati 900SS - The real canyon carver
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post #97 of 99 (permalink) Old 1-25-2014, 4:06 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

Thanks for the reply saabnut - I,ll try and remove the cooling tube WITH A LITTLE BRUTE FORCE.If it bends I,ll have to get a new one- about 45 US dollars with postage.The dollar bills are beginning to mount up.
Don,t know of any reason why the dowel pins could,nt be stuck in permanently.seems silly that you have to live on your nerves,praying that the little buggers don,t come out and drop into the depths of the engine.....
Time to get the carbs back on,balanced, and hope the engine runs ok ( 5 years since last run ).
regards bobT
.
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post #98 of 99 (permalink) Old 1-25-2014, 7:12 PM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

Good luck!
And I MAY have a set of coolant tubes floating around from the time of my engine swap, which you have for free plus shipping, but I would first need to actually find them.

- David

1990 EX500 - 144,000 miles as of November 2nd, 2019
1993 Ducati 900SS - The real canyon carver
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post #99 of 99 (permalink) Old 1-26-2014, 2:07 AM
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Re: Illustrated Valve Clearance Adjustment

I,ll bear that in mind,but America to Langkawi island,Malaysia won,t be cheap.
I,ll message you if I need any,if thats ok.Kind of you to offer !
best regards bob
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