Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide - Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R
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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-30-2006, 4:57 PM Thread Starter
fog
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Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

Forking Around by FOG

Recently there have been several questions about the forks. I’ll attempt to answer them and a few you should have asked.

To do any serious work on the forks they need to come off, this is not the subject here so I leave it at that.

Ok were going to have to break them down so before you remove them take out the top plug and the spring. This is easier if you used a 2 legged wheel puller over the top triple clamp to hold down the spring will you fish out the lock ring.
Tip Here: Bend the last 1/8” of the ring up and in to make it easier to remove the next time.
Tip 2: Have the plug drilled and tapped for a taper pipe plug to make later oil changes easier.

Step one: with the bike on the center stand and the front end blocked in the air. Remove the wheel, fender and the brake caliper from the forks, don’t break the Hyd line.

Optional: remove the fairing.

Loosen all the triple clamp bolts and slip the tubes down and out

Tip 3: If the tubes are tight a screwdriver tapped into the clamping point split will open the clamps and allow the tube to slip out easier.

Pour out the oil

Invert the fork tubes and remove the Allen hex bolt in the bottom center

Tip 4: be very careful not to push on the wrench just turn it and remove the screw completely. If you screw up and the inner part turns, then you need a long something to jam down inside to hold it while you turn out the screw.

Pry out the dust cap

Remove the snap ring under the dust cap.

Slam the slider to full extension repeatedly till the thing comes apart. You are driving out the top bearing and the seal.

Invert the tube and dump out the plunger rod.

Invert the slider and dump out the aluminum plunger rod seat.

Ok the forks are all apart. Depending on what you wanted in here for in the first place. Now do it.
Install Emulators (follow those instructions
Change bearing or seals now.

Before re assembling inspect the tubes very carefully for any knocks and stone them smooth.
Tip5: Take a ladies stocking and wipe it all over the tubes to feel for any catches. Stone them smooth.

NOW’s a good time to add a drain screw in the slider. Drill and tap a small hole in the back side of the slider about ˝” above the beginning of the round part and fit a plug with a rubber or nylon washer. Use a #10 or 6 mm screw. I used 10-32.

Re assembly:

Drop the plunger rod into the tube and drop the plunger rod seat into the slider.

Slip the tube into the slider and screw in the Allen hex bolt tighten the bolt, you may need that long thing again here.

Drop on the top bearing and with a seal driver seat it home.

Tip 6: A seal driver is just a tubular thing that fits over the tube and pushes the bearing home. A Piece of hard wood shaped to fit into the space will work.

Put on the new seal with the lip facing down

Drive it home

Add the washer and the snap ring and the dust cap. .

After installation be sure to “Rock’ the forks before you tighten all the bolts.

Drop in the spring and add 270 cc oil to each leg and install the plug and snap ring and your done.

FOG

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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-25-2007, 11:20 AM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

Any guidance on the size of the drain plug?


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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 3-4-2008, 10:48 PM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

If you use the 10-32 National Fine thread, use a #21 drill size. The length of the screw doesn't need to be any longer than the wall thickness of the aluminum housing (don't forget to factor in the washer thickness).
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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 4-26-2008, 11:46 PM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

BTW - what's the function of an emulator?
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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 4-27-2008, 1:31 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

It's an adjustable valving orfice that allows dampning adjustments.

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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 5-14-2008, 6:06 PM
 
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by FOG
It's an adjustable valving orfice that allows dampning adjustments.

FOG
Good write up, which emulator did you use? RaceTech, are their other options? Also, did you change out the springs?

Thanks,
Mark
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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 6-4-2008, 8:31 PM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

There is also a good tool to have for the clip is a cheap gear puller. I found one at Advance Auto parts for about 6 bucks and has saved me a ton of work. (I also ended up doing the bend the end of the clip so it takes all of 2 min to get the caps off)

http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...egoryCode=3497
http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...egoryCode=3497

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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 9-8-2008, 10:11 PM
 
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

what weight fork oil?
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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 1-3-2009, 1:19 AM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

My service manual says: 10w20 SAE

1CC = 1mL
270 Milliliters = 0.5706116336965592 Pints

I hope that helps out.


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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 1-25-2010, 7:16 PM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

My fork seals are leaking. What are the odds of me getting this repair done without a factory service manual? Also, and more importantly, can someone familiar with the process make a quick list of necessary tools? Thanks a lot.

'89 EX500
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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 2-10-2010, 10:58 PM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by catzor
My fork seals are leaking. What are the odds of me getting this repair done without a factory service manual? Also, and more importantly, can someone familiar with the process make a quick list of necessary tools? Thanks a lot.
catzor - are you mechanically inclined? If your comfortable to remove your fork tubes, then follow the FOG write-up. A 2-arm gear puller works great to depress the internal plug to remove the c-clip. You can also view the exploded parts illustration on bikebandit.com You can reinstall the fork seal with a length of PVC pipe used as a seating tool.
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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 2-11-2010, 2:51 AM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

As an easier option to drilling and tapping drain holes in your fork tubes just buy a $1 turkey baster. Measure the distance from the tip of the turkey baster the desired height of the fork oil (e.i. 5.1 inches) and mark it on the baster with a marker. Slightly over fill the forks with oil, insert the turkey baster to the marked line and suck out the oil till you are sucking air with the fork leg full compressed and vert. Presto, you now have the exact amount of desired oil in the fork.
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post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 2-18-2011, 11:17 AM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

Hi,
I intend to service my fork, but some things are unclear to me.

Please advice what seals and dust seals need to be replaced periodically (please specify the part number):
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID...oup/Front_Fork

Also, please point me to a good fork oil product on ebay.


Thank you all very much!
Alon

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post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 3-26-2012, 9:52 PM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

hey guys, i'm new here.

kinda have a problem changing my seals, actually taking the fork apart, i took everything apart took one cilinder apart completely, having the problem with the second one it stuck, first one needed a little force to drive the old seal and bushing out, but the second one is just stuck there i tried to pull it apart with my father but no luck, i tried WD40 to eliminate the rust no go, then heating with propane torch nothing. don't even know what else to try. and yeah i'm not a small guy .

any help would be greatly appreciated!!
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post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 3-26-2012, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

Your screwed. What you got is it. if you can't do it, throw it away and get a new one. There is no magic bullet.

FOG

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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 4-21-2012, 10:38 AM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

Is there any topic with pics how to put oil in the forks? Or change the oil (i need just to add some more but don't know where and how
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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 3-11-2013, 9:34 PM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

Any of the big guys here on the forums. Can you please take either a video(preferred) or at least detailed photos of the fork seal procedure. This will help all of us big time. And yes I am pipsqueak I just do not want to attempt this without pictures/video.
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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 3-19-2013, 3:19 PM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

Operaflute's little Kawi has leaking fork seals: Boo!
Someone has offered to fix it all for me: Yay! (I know you all just breathed a deep sigh of relief.)
Opera flute has been asked - "What weight oil do you want, and do you want progressive springs?"
Operaflute responded "uhhhhh"
How does EX500 respond?

Okay, stock oil is 10W20, any reason I'd want anything else? What about the springs?

'99 red EX500.&nbsp; Completely stock, and proud of it!, <br />'09 DucM696, '03 Yamaha XT225<br />http://operaflute.blogspot.com/
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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 3-19-2013, 7:34 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

Operaflute weighs what? 100 lbs? Any where up to 140 your stock springs are good.

Oil at 20-30 wt OK
if you want to spend money get a set of emulators.

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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 3-19-2013, 7:58 PM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

Quote:
Operaflute weighs what? 100 lbs? Any where up to 140 your stock springs are good.
115, I weigh! If another person were to ride it as well - guy, but not a giant guy - would I change my mind on this? Seemed to be fine up to this time, with occasional other (heavier) riders, 2-up, lots of luggage, whatever. but now is the time to ask!

Quote:
Oil at 20-30 wt OK
Okay but not preferable?

Thank you!

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post #21 of 36 (permalink) Old 3-19-2013, 9:19 PM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

20 or 30W with stock spring and rods?, wont it be too slow on rebound, specially if cold, and harsh or even locked on compression, even in smallest bumps? i fitted, for street, 0.8 spring, 15W thick oil and emulators with springs 1/10 rate of normal RT yellow spring and with very little pre-load on them to start seeing the forks moving quickly but controlled, this almost past winter
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post #22 of 36 (permalink) Old 3-20-2013, 12:41 PM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

Got the following thoughts via email from the guy who will be doing the work. Thought I'd share with all:

Quote:
It sounds to me like the bike is in fine shape. Good to know that the stock fork weight is 10w. You do not need to replace the fork springs. They normally last the life of the motorcycle. I was only thinking that as long as we were in there maybe it would be worth upgrading but upon further reflection the rear shock is probably not in the finest shape after this amount of time and making the fork firmer may not match well with a shock that has lost it’s ability to damp well. Rear shocks have oil in them as well and this oil wears over time. Stock shocks on Kawasaki’s are not rebuildable as your Ducati shock most likely is so unless we wanted to upgrade/replace that as well I think it best to just rebuild the fork so it works as stock.

'99 red EX500.&nbsp; Completely stock, and proud of it!, <br />'09 DucM696, '03 Yamaha XT225<br />http://operaflute.blogspot.com/
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post #23 of 36 (permalink) Old 3-20-2013, 7:56 PM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

Okay - ordering just seals, skipping springs. If anyone would like to confirm the following, I'd be grateful.

I understand I should have both dust and oil seals replaced.
Oil seals are part 92049-1421
Dust seals are part 92093-1367
Need about 600ml 10W20 oil - Do I care what brand/type? What's the deal with the multi-viscosity type? No bike shop seems to know what the heck I'm talking about.

'99 red EX500.&nbsp; Completely stock, and proud of it!, <br />'09 DucM696, '03 Yamaha XT225<br />http://operaflute.blogspot.com/
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post #24 of 36 (permalink) Old 3-20-2013, 8:59 PM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by operaflute
Okay - ordering just seals, skipping springs. If anyone would like to confirm the following, I'd be grateful.

I understand I should have both dust and oil seals replaced.
Oil seals are part 92049-1421
Dust seals are part 92093-1367
Need about 600ml 10W20 oil - Do I care what brand/type? What's the deal with the multi-viscosity type? No bike shop seems to know what the heck I'm talking about.
they meant 10w or 20w not multi-visc. I would do 15W for your weight and look around for a SV650 shock. that will go into your rear and greatly improve your rear. Look in the wiki for the shock mod.




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post #25 of 36 (permalink) Old 3-20-2013, 9:14 PM
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Re: Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by VICIOINA

they meant 10w or 20w not multi-visc. I would do 15W for your weight and look around for a SV650 shock. that will go into your rear and greatly improve your rear. Look in the wiki for the shock mod.
Clymer says "10W20" (??)
Thanks for thoughts!

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