Installing battery tender - Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 7-15-2018, 9:30 PM Thread Starter
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Installing battery tender

I ordered a battery tender harness and need to install it. Also included is a USB charger port, that will provide power on the road for my cell phone. As an electrical moron, I have a few questions. If I connect both terminals to the battery, the USB port will draw power even when the bike is off and the key is removed. Obviously, this is a no go. I was told, that if I connect the ground to another ground that is connected to the battery, this will prevent a constant draw and only provide power when the bike is running. The other option i have considered, is taking power from a switched continous source, say the running light wiring, that is only powered when the bike is running, but this would defeat the purpose of the battery tender for trickle charging if i am correct, as i would not be able to deliver a trickle charge when hooked to the tender over winter. The other option is to hook it up , and unplug the adapter from the battery tender after each ride or as needed. This would not be my ideal solution

I know you guys have done this and sorted it out, how did you go about it ?
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 7-15-2018, 9:42 PM
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"If I connect both terminals to the battery, the USB port will draw power even when the bike is off and the key is removed."

The USB most likely draws power only when you connect it to some device to charge.
You can connect it according to the instructions, pay attention to the polarity (of course) and it will be fine. If you only want to have a powered USB when the key is on, you'll need to connect it independently of the charger pigtail to some existing wire with switched 12V. Try the junction box.


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Last edited by Conax; 7-15-2018 at 9:46 PM.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 7-15-2018, 9:51 PM Thread Starter
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The USB chargers are notorious for parasitic draw, even with nothing plugged into them. I found this by reading. Alas, i am a moron when it comes to all things electrical...electricity in any and all forms scares me... i was electrocuted as a kid. spent a week in the hospital. I try to do my best with stuff like this, but i am also lacking even basic knowledge of electrical systems, so it is all greek to me, to be honest .
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 7-15-2018, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taurahe View Post
If I connect both terminals to the battery, the USB port will draw power even when the bike is off and the key is removed.
It will most likely draw little to no power in this situation. Ideally, it will only draw power when you have some USB device plugged into it drawing power. Possibly, the conversion circuitry will draw some at all times. As long as you ride the bike occasionally, it shouldn't be a problem.

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Originally Posted by Taurahe View Post
I was told, that if I connect the ground to another ground that is connected to the battery, this will prevent a constant draw and only provide power when the bike is running.
This is completely wrong. Connecting to another ground that's connected to the battery is essentially the same as using a slightly longer wire. As long as the circuit is complete from + to -, it will draw whatever power it needs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Taurahe View Post
The other option i have considered, is taking power from a switched continous source, say the running light wiring, that is only powered when the bike is running, but this would defeat the purpose of the battery tender for trickle charging if i am correct, as i would not be able to deliver a trickle charge when hooked to the tender over winter.
Correct. This would give you the desired USB operation, but undesired operation for the tender.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Taurahe View Post
The other option is to hook it up , and unplug the adapter from the battery tender after each ride or as needed.
This is really the only way to hook the tender leads up properly, and get no current draw from the USB adapter when you're not using it. As already said, it will probably only draw a tiny amount.

If you have a multimeter, you can put it inline between the harness and battery to measure how much the USB adapter draws when nothing's actually using it. That's really the only way to confirm your fears.

I have my hardwire USB charging port wired directly to the unused Accessory fuse. On the newer bikes like mine, this is hooked up to the always-on white wire from the Main fuse. I haven't noticed any extra draw on the battery, but I tend to ride either every few days or let it sit for months at a time (so the battery level is pretty much going to be fine or bad anyway, regardless of the USB port).


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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 7-16-2018, 1:15 AM
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Not on the 500 but on a 150...
I have a “Tender” plug, the kind you hook the rectangular plug to and it’s wired directly to the battery via regular soldered and heat shrunk ring terminals for extended periods of dormant. Just like the factory wiring terminals, use the same screws on the battery that hold the bike’s factory stuff. Plug the “tender” in to the pigtail and all is good. No biggie.

Also have a 12v socket. Same kind in a car you’d plug a USB adapter to. The wires use the same ring type terminal to the battery positive and negative with 10 amp fuse wired inline for safety.

No key, I plug an adapter in and boom, I have a hot constant to charge a phone. I could charge a laptop if needed. Or a back up power supply. Even a GPS unit if needed, although I don’t use them. They come in handy though.
That socket is always hot and it doesn’t require the key to be on or the engine to be running.
And, as long as there’s nothing plugged in then there’s no amperage being drawn from the battery. If you leave USB type with an LED indicator light then there’s a SLIGHT draw with nothing USB plugged to it and it might kill it a day earlier when it sat not tended for like 3 months.
Otherwise, no more discharge than the natural discharge of a standard lead acid battery or glass mat battery.

Think about it like this.... the EX has no draw when not being used.
The battery naturally discharges.
Your expensive computer controlled car with a radio that keeps your stations and time draws more but it has a bigger battery so it takes longer.


Long story short. TLR
Wire it all directly to the EX battery, don’t leave anything plugged in to the USB terminal when not in use, keep the battery plugged to the automatic battery maintainer/float charger when not in use.

O_E_M
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