Forks and Model definitions - Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-27-2018, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Forks and Model definitions

As mentioned in another thread, I'm planning to hit the forks pretty soon. I'd like to replace the seals and oil. Reading in the service manual they list different amounts of oil for the various models, but it doesn't explain the models.

So, my questions are:

1) What are the "A", "D", and "C" models?

2) I have a 2007, yellow EX500. What model and how much oil should I be filling each tube with?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-27-2018, 10:44 PM
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IIRC all the second gen use the same forks, so this would help you. At the very end of the first post FOG tell you how much.

Forking Around
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 6:37 AM
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With the fork fully compressed, and without the fork spring, the oil should come to 117mm (+ or - 2mm) below the top of the fork tube.

I'm not understanding those model's "A", "D", and "C". I would be curious to know what manual you are using.

I have the factory service manual. It list's "D", "E", and "F" models.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 8:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpe View Post
With the fork fully compressed, and without the fork spring, the oil should come to 117mm (+ or - 2mm) below the top of the fork tube.

I'm not understanding those model's "A", "D", and "C". I would be curious to know what manual you are using.

I have the factory service manual. It list's "D", "E", and "F" models.
as far as I understand. A. refers to gen 1 89/93. B. gen 1 European model twin disc, 85/93. C model, gpz500/4 sold in Europe. D model, gen2 94/2002. E. gen2 2002/on twin front brakes. F. gen 2 2004/2009 US model.
the EX or GPZ500 stopped being sold in Europe after 2002 as it did not meet the new motorcycle regulations.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpe View Post
With the fork fully compressed, and without the fork spring, the oil should come to 117mm (+ or - 2mm) below the top of the fork tube.

I'm not understanding those model's "A", "D", and "C". I would be curious to know what manual you are using.

I have the factory service manual. It list's "D", "E", and "F" models.


I know this manual only goes up to 2005 models (and mine's a 2007) but I didn't think much changed in models.

https://www.klappersaki.de/gpz-wartu...air_Manual.pdf

Page 19, under "Fork Oil Capacity", they list different models.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yorkie View Post
as far as I understand. A. refers to gen 1 89/93. B. gen 1 European model twin disc, 85/93. C model, gpz500/4 sold in Europe. D model, gen2 94/2002. E. gen2 2002/on twin front brakes. F. gen 2 2004/2009 US model.
the EX or GPZ500 stopped being sold in Europe after 2002 as it did not meet the new motorcycle regulations.
I think that is correct for the most part. Possible exception being, I don't think the "F" came into play until 2006.

Examples US models:

2004 EX500-D11
2005 EX500-D12
2006 EX500D6F
2007 EX500D7F
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devilsfan View Post
I know this manual only goes up to 2005 models (and mine's a 2007) but I didn't think much changed in models.

https://www.klappersaki.de/gpz-wartu...air_Manual.pdf

Page 19, under "Fork Oil Capacity", they list different models.
Not much changed with the years on the gen2's. Most of what did was electrical. The forks remained the same.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 7:59 PM Thread Starter
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Been riding the Versys for the past few days. Just got home and started up the EX (she still starts right up, first try! ) and noticed the left fork is leaking. Probably has been for a while, just didn't notice it until now. I DID know it was feeling a little squishy, thus this thread.

So, I'm going with the All Balls brand because I love their wheel bearings and used their seals on my CTX.

Question...although I haven't taken them apart to see, would y'all recommend me getting the entire fork bushing kit as well? Have these bikes been known to have these wear out? I know it all depends on the bike, the use and the storage, etc...but figured to ask before I order just the seals and dust covers.

https://www.allballsracing.com/38-6103.html

https://www.allballsracing.com/56-123.html
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 9:29 PM
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I got a seal leak a few years ago, with 75,000 miles on the bike when it happened. Although I think most members don't automatically replace the bushings, I did.
Reasons being:
1. That's just the way I am.
2. Kawasaki recommends it.
3. It was the middle of the riding season.
3A. I didn't want to wait for parts if I did need them.
3B. I didn't want to take the forks apart twice.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-30-2018, 11:09 PM
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my left fork started leaking months ago I took a piece of old 35mm film and slid it around the lip of the seal it had dirt in it hasn't leaked since.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 6:57 AM Thread Starter
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my left fork started leaking months ago I took a piece of old 35mm film and slid it around the lip of the seal it had dirt in it hasn't leaked since.

I've used one of those Motion Pro Seal-Mate's. Didn't work for me. But they're a cheap way to go before fork disassembly and could definitely solve the issue before ya have to take everything apart!
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-4-2018, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Sweet Lord Almighty!!!

OK, so what's the trick to "depressing the top cap and pulling out the C-ring"?!?!

(page 40 in this manual: https://www.klappersaki.de/gpz-wartu...air_Manual.pdf )


Because I feel the rubber mallet needs to come out!
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-4-2018, 2:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Devilsfan View Post
Sweet Lord Almighty!!!

OK, so what's the trick to "depressing the top cap and pulling out the C-ring"?!?!

(page 40 in this manual: https://www.klappersaki.de/gpz-wartu...air_Manual.pdf )


Because I feel the rubber mallet needs to come out!
Do it while the forks are still in the triples.

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-4-2018, 6:11 PM
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Invisibill has a cool and easy way to do it.
As I mentioned in another thread I am planning to show later this winter how I do it. It is actually similar to the way Invisibill is doing it, only I do it with the forks off, and it looks a little barbaric. But I have proven (at least to myself) that it does work.


I've done 3 fork oil changes, including a rebuild at the last oil change on my EX.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-4-2018, 7:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, InvisiBill! Went down to Harbor Freight and got a box of 3 2-arm pullers. (20% off and a free flashlight that attaches to your head!)

Put one fork back through the tree and, after a little struggling with the puller...and then that stupid, little, tiny...c-clip...I got one fork disassembled. It's now too dark to do the other so I will wait until tomorrow.

I've got a little wear on one of the bushings so I may order some new ones, unless I can scrub the inner black off this one.
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-4-2018, 8:31 PM
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that's a good way to do it, I use a tool I made myself [I make a lot of my own special tools] similar method but utilising a long bolt through a bracket that mounts to top yolk where the bars fit.

ps. if you bend the very end of the circlip inwards [about 3mm] next time you strip the forks the clip can be pulled out with long nose pliers.
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Last edited by yorkie; 11-4-2018 at 8:35 PM.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-18-2018, 5:51 PM Thread Starter
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14 days later...

Just finished up with the forks. I had ordered a set of All Balls fork seals and covers. Then, after looking at the bushings I wasn't sure if I wanted to continue using them as they weren't "bad"...but they had some chaffing on the inside. I took one to the local Kawasaki dealer. He said I better get new ones.
So...back to AllBalls.com for a set of the bushings. (I knew I should have ordered everything together. ) That took a few more days.
Since being a school teacher has it's perks (a week off for Thanksgiving!) after a Versys ride to meet some old CTX forum members yesterday, today was set for the forks.

Got them done (tunes listened to included: Tool, Henry Rollins and The Fixx ). The All Balls kit came with a bunch of O-rings, 2 of which I used for the fork tube covers but I have no idea where the others would go as I didn't see any rubber O-rings other than the caps. But I replaced everything I could, put everything together fairly easily and then....


...that mother-loving front wheel!!! I ALWAYS have a major knock-down / drag-out with that stupid-ass axle. I can never get it to catch on the bolt.

Anyway, I finally got it, then realized I had the left fork backwards, fought again with the axle but got everything up and running.

Took it for a quick spin and she handles great! I did get to the end of the street and there was smoke. I think it must have been some fork oil that got on the pipes. I pulled into the driveway and no smoke or burning smells. I got a neighbor that bought a used Deuce and wants to go riding tomorrow so I may take the EX out. (He has a bad back and can't go too far so, hopefully, the EX forks hold up and I get a decent ride in!)

Thanks for all the help and suggestions!
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