Lapping the head to repair a head gasket - Page 6 - Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R
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post #126 of 147 (permalink) Old 3-14-2018, 1:24 PM
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Has the coolant level dropped or raised in the overflow bottle?

I would say the carbs need to be gone through and checked/adjusted.

Typically, coolant leaking into the combustion chamber is going to "steam clean" it and the plug.
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post #127 of 147 (permalink) Old 3-14-2018, 2:13 PM
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Dropped.
Carbs are clean as new, cleaned them with lots of carb cleaner and compressed air, all passages/jets and everything else is clean.
Still rich Float height fights with bowl fuel level. At specified 17mm fuel level is 2mm higher, at 17.8mm fuel level is right but engine almost dies on hard deceleration. New float needles. And there is that strong fuel smell that irritate eyes so much (bike is in garage) Something is definitely wrong with carbs, been that way from the first day i bought it
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post #128 of 147 (permalink) Old 3-14-2018, 6:27 PM
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@MARKO500 If you still have the original pair system, you may want to disconnect the vacuum line going to the right carb, then apply vacuum to it and see if the pair valve is holding vacuum. If it is not, it would cause the bike to run rich. Worth a shot, free and easy.

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post #129 of 147 (permalink) Old 3-15-2018, 2:35 PM
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I'm from EU, no PAIR on EU bikes.
Gonna take it to a quality mechanic for Kawasaki bikes soon and spend some time with him repairing bike, probably machine lapping is not up to standard as fog told me. As for a carbs i really don't know what is causing it to go rich since everything is in place and stock. Didn't check choke stuff only.

BTW there is ''double gasket''- double thickness for KLE/ER late models ('05-'07) not 100% sure if this is true, part number is different than standard gasket. Should work OK with Ninja/Vulcan models in case someone took too much material off the surface/valves touching pistons. Maybe I'll use it for reducing compression a bit if its going to do that job. fog can throw his opinion, he knows every bit of this machine.
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post #130 of 147 (permalink) Old 4-7-2018, 9:55 AM
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Lapping was not perfect and I've got money back for bad job and bought granite tiles. Now I'm gonna reuse old gasket. Those cheap spray can paints here are acrylic (water based) sometimes called enamel too, some of them are for high temp applications.
Enamel is Oil based paint. I have bunch of general purpose red and green enamel oil based paint at home. Can I use what I have or should I buy acrylic enamel (high temp) paint?
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post #131 of 147 (permalink) Old 4-7-2018, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Pretty much any old spray paint will be fine. The temp of that area of the head never reaches more than 200 degrees. far below any paints deterioration point.

Your rich condition may be caused by a leaking float valve. another poster here had success lapping the seat with a Q tip and abrasive compound. in anywise you not through cleaning the carbs without doing a leak test on those seats.

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post #132 of 147 (permalink) Old 4-12-2018, 4:53 PM
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Took me a 2 granite tiles and almost 2 hours to make jugs flat as possible, valve compound was fine type so it took me longer to remove some material from middle part. Head was OK, just needed minimal effort.
At the end I used Polyurethane paint to coat gasket which is a bit more resistant to heat. Oil based enamel or any other oil base paint can soften up on heat so I was worried about unexpected problems with it. Now my bike is working like a champ and I can't be more happier
Just to throw some tips.
Make sure to degrease gasket after you remove the old coating or else no paint gonna stick to it properly, I do this whenever I paint metal, but don't know if it should be done with gasket, maybe it's overkill.
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post #133 of 147 (permalink) Old 4-22-2018, 1:38 PM
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Front M6 head bolt snapped. I removed valve cover just to inspect if everything is alright, and it was not By checking bolts torque after few rides, front M6 bolt behaved like it yielded. Grabbed magnet on a stick and half of it came out, it even didn't hold tight.
Can I ride the bike without this bolt? I don't have left drill nor will to buy left drill and try to extract it and do the lapping and repainting gasket again, I am at the very end of my nerves. Bolt was tightened to a manual spec, bike is running fine.

Last edited by MARKO500; 4-22-2018 at 1:40 PM.
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post #134 of 147 (permalink) Old 4-22-2018, 1:43 PM Thread Starter
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You mean the white bolt in the center? that just pinches the gasket to help prevent leaks you can ride it fine , it may leak
And trow away that torque wrench, most dangerous tool in the box.
Why did you post this in the Lapping the head thread?

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post #135 of 147 (permalink) Old 4-22-2018, 4:21 PM
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I felt like it was connected with lapping and all that stuff and I was very pissed because of this piece of cr*p. I am sorry if
question wasn't appropriate for this thread.
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post #136 of 147 (permalink) Old 6-27-2018, 2:52 AM
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Hi guys!

Is it possible to get photos that were on the original post? Because i m not sure i understood everything (as i m not a native english speaking guy, i only learnt at school so forgive me &#128543

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post #137 of 147 (permalink) Old 6-27-2018, 9:28 AM Thread Starter
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Vous Ítes ici: Gabby
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Last edited by fog; 6-27-2018 at 10:05 AM.
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post #138 of 147 (permalink) Old 7-2-2018, 6:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fog View Post
If you havenít followed my instructions to the letter in post #1bof this topic especially to increase head bolt torque to 45 lbs ft. You may need to re Lapp again
Fog
Hi FOG, on page 1 of the directions, you say torque to 40 lbs. ft., but here you say 45. Is 40 no longer sufficient?

Mine seems to be leaking again :/ plan to relap everything, but just wanna check what I should torque the head bolts back to afterwards.

Thanks FOG!
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post #139 of 147 (permalink) Old 7-2-2018, 7:41 PM Thread Starter
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Increase of torque proved to be necessary on used equipment . please use 45

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post #140 of 147 (permalink) Old 7-16-2018, 11:57 PM
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Thanks FOG. Took cover off, retorqued to 45 ft lbs., started it up and still seeing leaks so new gasket on the way and plans for resurfacing in my future.

I'm getting new head gasket because the one on currently doesn't appear OEM (there is no "UP" stamped in it anywhere), and I am mistrustful of it. If it's a new gasket, should it get a layer of enamel spray paint, or is it unnecessary? I believe I saw in another post that new gaskets come painted so we don't have to, but want to confirm. I will still be lapping and setting torque to 45 ft.lbs. Wish me luck
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post #141 of 147 (permalink) Old 7-17-2018, 3:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soccerdan147 View Post
Thanks FOG. Took cover off, retorqued to 45 ft lbs., started it up and still seeing leaks [IMG class=inlineimg]https://www.ex-500.com/images/smilies/sad.gif[/IMG] so new gasket on the way and plans for resurfacing in my future.

I'm getting new head gasket because the one on currently doesn't appear OEM (there is no "UP" stamped in it anywhere), and I am mistrustful of it. If it's a new gasket, should it get a layer of enamel spray paint, or is it unnecessary? I believe I saw in another post that new gaskets come painted so we don't have to, but want to confirm. I will still be lapping and setting torque to 45 ft.lbs. Wish me luck [IMG class=inlineimg]/images/Ex-500_2016/smilies/tango_face_smile.png[/IMG]
Not necessary to paint new gasket for first install.
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post #142 of 147 (permalink) Old 7-17-2018, 5:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soccerdan147 View Post
and I am mistrustful of it.
When in doubt

change it out

Quote:
Originally Posted by venom831 View Post
Not necessary to paint new gasket for first install.
^+1

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post #143 of 147 (permalink) Old 7-17-2018, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Smile Head gasket "UP"

FYI
The UP mark is pierced through the gasket, so if you have the gasket upside down you won't recognize the word. Look at your gasket again from both sides see the funny hole in one corner that says "UP"

and no 1 coat of paint is all thats needed what the new one comes with is fine

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Last edited by fog; 7-17-2018 at 11:12 AM.
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post #144 of 147 (permalink) Old 7-18-2018, 1:37 PM
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Thank you all for the help, this is one of the few good places still on the internet!

Got the head and cylinder block off, and noticed the intake valves stick out below the head gasket. Makes me wonder, is the head still good? How much can be removed from the head surface before too much has come off? I have no idea if the prior owners ever had the head machined before, so I don't know if the valves being below the head is normal or not. As it stands, I'll need to remove at least the intake valves before trying to flatten out. Should an oversized gasket ever be considered?

I'm curious if at this point I'd be better off finding a new head...
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post #145 of 147 (permalink) Old 7-18-2018, 2:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soccerdan147 View Post
Thank you all for the help, this is one of the few good places still on the internet!

Got the head and cylinder block off, and noticed the intake valves stick out below the head gasket. Makes me wonder, is the head still good? How much can be removed from the head surface before too much has come off? I have no idea if the prior owners ever had the head machined before, so I don't know if the valves being below the head is normal or not. As it stands, I'll need to remove at least the intake valves before trying to flatten out. Should an oversized gasket ever be considered?

I'm curious if at this point I'd be better off finding a new head...
That is normal.
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post #146 of 147 (permalink) Old 7-20-2018, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv357 View Post
That is normal.
Normal? sort of but there is little or no stock for head re machining. Hence the lapping process.
Wish I could give you a way to check how much if any was removed, But as you see the engine is a interference engine, that is it the valves get miss timed even a little the pistons will hit the intake valves.


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post #147 of 147 (permalink) Old 7-20-2018, 2:38 PM
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Quote:
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Normal? sort of but there is little or no stock for head re machining. Hence the lapping process.
Wish I could give you a way to check how much if any was removed, But as you see the engine is a interference engine, that is it the valves get miss timed even a little the pistons will hit the intake valves.


FOG
The part about the intake valves sitting below the plane of the head - that's normal.

He thought that may indicate the head had been machined, that's why I said it was normal.
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