Should I Clean the Petcock? - Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 5-13-2019, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Should I Clean the Petcock?

Hey Guys,

I just purchased an '05 with 7.5k mi, now 8.5k, about a month ago. I have been going through fixing the little things, and the bike has slowly started to run smoother, with more power and better fuel economy

Part of what I am trying to diagnose is a jerkiness at a constant throttle/load. If I stay at ~5k revs the bike wants to be accelerating or engine braking. Tuning the air-fuel screws helped a lot, as well as new oil. I am planning valve adjustments when I get a free weekend, but I am wondering if cleaning, or buying a new petcock would help. Essentially, is this problem a potential fuel delivery issue?

Thanks!

Keith
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 5-14-2019, 9:08 AM
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Originally Posted by KeithM View Post
Hey Guys,

I just purchased an '05 with 7.5k mi, now 8.5k, about a month ago. I have been going through fixing the little things, and the bike has slowly started to run smoother, with more power and better fuel economy

Part of what I am trying to diagnose is a jerkiness at a constant throttle/load. If I stay at ~5k revs the bike wants to be accelerating or engine braking. Tuning the air-fuel screws helped a lot, as well as new oil. I am planning valve adjustments when I get a free weekend, but I am wondering if cleaning, or buying a new petcock would help. Essentially, is this problem a potential fuel delivery issue?

Thanks!

Keith
Historically, some members have incorrectly interpreted this as an engine/carb issue, when in reality, driveline issues are really at fault. Worn or incorrectly adjusted chain/sprockets, worn rear wheel dampers, etc. It may demand some further inspection on your part to totally eliminate as a possibility, but may be in your best interests.

That said....nothing wrong with occasional disassembling and *properly* cleaning petcock innards, followed by correct reassembly.

Have you done the tank vent flapper valve removal procedure as well?

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 5-14-2019, 9:56 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
Historically, some members have incorrectly interpreted this as an engine/carb issue, when in reality, driveline issues are really at fault. Worn or incorrectly adjusted chain/sprockets, worn rear wheel dampers, etc. It may demand some further inspection on your part to totally eliminate as a possibility, but may be in your best interests.

That said....nothing wrong with occasional disassembling and *properly* cleaning petcock innards, followed by correct reassembly.

Have you done the tank vent flapper valve removal procedure as well?
I have not done the tank vent flapper valve. Is there a write-up on this procedure?

For the petcock rebuild, should I just disassemble and clean it, or replace parts as well?

The chain and sprockets are in good condition, but I just checked the slack and the chain when lifted can hit the rubber bumper on the frame. I assume this is too loose, I'll have to adjust this soon.

How much play should be in the hub dampers? The sprocket can turn a few degrees of free play. Do I have to pull it apart to properly inspect this?

Thanks!
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 5-14-2019, 10:39 AM
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Tank Vent: https://www.ex-500.com/37-how-s-fyi/...-cap-vent.html

Haynes guide recommends 35-40mm or 1.38-1.57in of chain slack

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 5-14-2019, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Tank Vent: https://www.ex-500.com/37-how-s-fyi/...-cap-vent.html

Haynes guide recommends 35-40mm or 1.38-1.57in of chain slack

Thank you, I will do that as a precaution. Now to rig up some laser pointers to do my alignment. The wiki claims I shouldn't measure off the frame, have you found this accurate?
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 5-14-2019, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by KeithM View Post
Thank you, I will do that as a precaution. Now to rig up some laser pointers to do my alignment. The wiki claims I shouldn't measure off the frame, have you found this accurate?
The running problem is carb related, specifically flooding or too much fuel in the float bowls . Your float valves are not stopping the flow when the floats are up to level (17 mm)

You must fix this the float valves must be tested with a gravity fed. Supply with the carbs off and set at the same angle as when mounted.

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