Anybody convert a race bike to keyless? - Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 4-12-2018, 1:45 PM Thread Starter
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Anybody convert a race bike to keyless?

My SV and R6 race bikes were set up with woodcraft ignition bypass, so the kill switch also doubled as the on/off. There was no key switch or toggle or anything like that. Our team endurance SV is wired the same way using a schematic posted online. Has anybody done this on the EX500?

I guess worse case scenario I wire in a resistor and a toggle, but would rather avoid that if possible.

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 4-15-2018, 1:24 AM Thread Starter
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Well I guess maybe I will be the first. Can someone take a look at the schematic and verify my plan?

Race harness schematic here. https://www.ex-500.com/34-racers/4004...e-harness.html

1. Splice the grey and brown switched ignition power to the red (output side) of the handlebar switch.
2. Splice a 100 ohm resistor into the gray wire close to the IC ignitor (so it is out of the way and safe)
and
3. Splice the white Batt power that fed the ignition switch to the brown/white (input side) of the handlebar switch.

Looks like it will work and it sure would shed some weight for free! Can someone confirm?

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 4-15-2018, 1:44 PM
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Yes, ignoring lights, the keyswitch just bridges power from the white wire to the brown accessory wire and the gray igniter wire. Just to explicitly state it, you'll want to disconnect the brown/white wire from the killswitch and replace it with the white main wire, not splice the white in as an addition. This will move the coils off the Ignition fuse, and directly onto the white wire/Main fuse. It also routes all current on the bike through the killswitch, which I've never actually seen an amperage rating for. Especially without lights, it's probably not an issue, but I don't know how much that switch can actually handle.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 4-15-2018, 2:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InvisiBill View Post
It also routes all current on the bike through the killswitch, which I've never actually seen an amperage rating for. Especially without lights, it's probably not an issue, but I don't know how much that switch can actually handle.
I don't have a fan or a dash (except for an oil light) either so I would imagine it'll be OK. Is there anything even left on the accessory circuit anyway.

Thanks for the help. Time to track down a resistor. I think I have one from a SV project so maybe this will be my afternoon project.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 4-15-2018, 4:56 PM Thread Starter
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Everything's done except the resistor. Will update in a few days when it gets here.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 4-17-2018, 9:55 PM Thread Starter
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It works. 🙂

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 4-18-2018, 9:05 PM Thread Starter
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Also, I forgot to mention. If you're careful you can extract the resistor from the ignition switch and reuse it. No need to buy one.

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