Magnetic switch wires need help troubleshooting - Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R
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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 7-21-2019, 6:08 PM Thread Starter
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Magnetic switch wires need help troubleshooting

Iam trouble shooting the magnetic switch wires that go to the 30A fuse on the magnetic switch,i think they come from the ignition switch?
One is black with a yellow stripe,one is yellow with a red stripe and one is solid white.Am i missing a fourth wire?There is a blank spot on the connecter from the wireing harness but the 3 stated above are in it.
I recently bought the 2001 kawasaki 500EX with the magnetic switch being jumped out to start with a screwdriver.The keyed ignition switch looks original and not messed with ....if i have to open it up to check connections does it open at the bottom?
The 30Afuse block connection is very lose on the magnetic switch and i have decided to just get a new magnetic switch and start out with this replacement first.After its replaced if i still cant crank the bike and get fire will the ignition switch be next to get replaced? Thats if i can confirm i have the right number of wires{3}going to the magnetic switch 30A fuse.
I do have the 2 bigger black wires that go to the magnetic switch that terminate under the 2 nuts that i have been arcing jumping out together with the screw driver to crank the bike.
Once the bike cranks up it runs fine.
Thanks for any help in advance!
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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 7-21-2019, 6:14 PM Thread Starter
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The oem part number for the magnetic switch i think is 27010-0778
Is this correct?
How much should the part cost and should i be able to get it at the local dealers or prolly have to order online and wait?
Is there a way to post pics on this forum?
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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 7-21-2019, 8:39 PM
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"Magnetic switch" is the poor Japanese to English translation for the starter solenoid. You do have the correct part number, just not sure you actually need a new one.

2006 Ninja500R Purchased new July 2006; 0 miles. Miles as of January 2019; 102,137. It's a GO bike, not a SHOW bike.
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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 7-21-2019, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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I read a little on the electrical forum since my post,seems the current goes to the fuse box to a relay that closes the solenoid and sends battery power thru it to the starter?
I have no idea where the the relay is but did find the 6 10A fuses in the little box under the seat.
Where is the relay and what does it look like? Maybe the relay is the
Problem? The fuse box looks like its seen better days....
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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 7-21-2019, 10:02 PM
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Three wires is correct. One takes big power feed from cable going to battery pos+ and sends power to ignition switch.

Remaining two wires are +trigger and ground to activate starter solenoid itself. If you’re not getting +12v there when pushing START, you’ve got problem upstream. Measure power going into and out of kill on/off switch. Measure power going into and out if start-button.
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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 7-21-2019, 10:07 PM
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Its $97 and change new Kawasaki dealer price. I'd suggest to confirm its failed first prior to performing a blind swap. Proper, simple electrical test procedures for the solenoid and relay are detailed in Haynes or factory service manual, an important investment.

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Last edited by ducatiman; 7-21-2019 at 10:09 PM.
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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 7-21-2019, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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The fuse plug- in area where the 2 links connect into the solenoid is worn out so bad the previous owner has a 30A fuse installed in the top and bottom of the plug in socket just so they will hold in tightly..
I bet the relay is at the solenoid and not in the fuse box right?
I agree 97$ is a pricey way to find out the solenoid is not the problem.
I will check the wires and volts and see if i have a open in between the wires.
The 12v 10amp protected power will feed from the ignition switch to the kill switch to the start button then thru the start button when pressed to the solenoid and cause the solenoid to close and which will feed 12v 30amp protected fused power from the battery to the starter,is this the correct circuit wireing?
I think alot of the wireing on my bike has been spliced and tinkered with many times.I figure i will splice something before its over with...LOL
Thank you guys bigtime for the help!
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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 7-22-2019, 5:32 AM
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hi, not really understanding your last post. while you have the basic concept of the system your not quite right. power feed starts at the ignition switch. goes though the fuse box [that has a relay in it] and out to the starter button from there it goes to the solenoid [red yellow wire]. the black /yellow wire is the earth return for the solenoid only. all the wiring does is operate the solenoid [magnetic switch] in a similar way to shorting out the terminals with a screwdriver.

the 30 amp fuse has nothing to do with the starter circuit at all but is the main bike feed wire [white wire] for the whole bike that gets it's feed from the battery connected solenoid. you say the connector plug is loose there is a major issue just there is should be a tight fit and clip to the connector block by a locking tab either side. I would start right there. change the connector plug for nice new tight one. like this .

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorbike...kAAOSwH5NcuZJ2

and see what happens you have to go after market as this is not available OEM only the full wiring harness is.

not surprised the wiring has been hacked though common problem on bikes as old as these are.
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post #9 of 47 (permalink) Old 7-22-2019, 3:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks i understand the circuit better now.
Lots of in series parts that can get worn out or go bad in 19 years...LOL
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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-4-2019, 7:41 PM Thread Starter
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I just got thru testing every wire at the ignition,solenoid,and fuse box everything is dead with the ignition switch turned on or off. Power at the battery yes.everywhere else no.
I have opened up the throttle case and checked power at the kill button,no power & its broken into and a small spring fell out.can i just bypass the kill button for now by tapping the 2 wires together or do they need to be open?
I will check power at the starter tomorrow.If i have no power there where can i look next?
I also checked power at the kickstand,no power there either.
I looked at the battery connections,there is one large wire bolted down to the positive and a smaller wire bolted with it that is inline fused,it just wraps around the frame about a foot length and is capped off & tye wrapped.
What is it there for and did someone leave a feed off to something maybe?
I do remember when the bike was jumped off and everything was working fine as long as it was running ,lights,everything.now that its off everything is dead and no voltage going thru any wires,i even unpluged connecters and checked connections for voltage and at the wires entrance to the fuse box...nothing.
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post #11 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-4-2019, 7:42 PM Thread Starter
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How can i possbly post a picture?
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post #12 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-4-2019, 9:54 PM
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You can drag and drop a file of a picture (out of file explorer ) into the "Drag and Drop File Upload" box. Underneath the box that you type text.


I cant find any good videos on how to use Imgur to do this. I may have to make my own video.

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post #13 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-5-2019, 8:40 AM Thread Starter
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Trying Pics
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post #14 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-5-2019, 8:43 AM Thread Starter
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post #15 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-5-2019, 8:58 AM Thread Starter
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In the second pic you can see the wire to no where at the left.
The other wire coming from thr battery goes to the solinoid,this is where the 3 wires get there feed from to send to the ignition?I have power on the solinoid but nothing on the 3 small wires that plug into the solenoid...
Does anyone recognize the muffler?Is it ok to leave it on even though its loud?
Will post more pics so you guys can see what iam dealing with.
Thanks for the help
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post #16 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-5-2019, 8:59 AM Thread Starter
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post #17 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-5-2019, 9:05 AM Thread Starter
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Kill switch pic
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post #18 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-5-2019, 4:45 PM
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Yeah, that wiring doesn't look like mine at all. Where does that wire connected to the positive post (the one that looks like it has a fuse in it), go to?

2006 Ninja500R Purchased new July 2006; 0 miles. Miles as of January 2019; 102,137. It's a GO bike, not a SHOW bike.
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post #19 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-5-2019, 4:49 PM
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Have you looked at wiring-diagram to see where that wire with free-end connects? Every wire has two ends. Each end connects to a specific spot. Look on wiring-diagram for spot where that wire should be connected to. If you have issues with red/green colour-blindness, trace where other end of that wire connects and find it on wiring-diagram. That will then tell you where free end should go.

Also no power at starter-solenoid is correct. It ONLY has power under specific conditions:

1. ign-switch ON

2. kill-switch ON

3. START button pressed

4. ALL safety-interlock switches operational: kickstand, neutral, clutch. If any one of these is loose or broken, you'll NEVER get power at starter-solenoid. Use multimeter and test continuity of all these switches. At the switches themselves as well as diode connector they feed. Switches may test perfectly fine, but wiring in between may be broken.


Did you pull all fuses and measure resistance across their legs?

Last edited by DannoXYZ; 8-5-2019 at 4:51 PM.
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post #20 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-5-2019, 4:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawasakikid View Post
More pics


You have two extra non-factory wires connected to battery. The two aiming downwards with red & black covered terminals. Trace where other end of these wires go. Probably to some accessory. Remove these extra wires and restore wiring back to 100% bone-stock factory configuration.
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post #21 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-5-2019, 5:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawasakikid View Post
Kill switch pic


Unless you can see electrons flowing in wires (and pictures don't show them either), you'll want to do some measurements with multimeter. Disconnect that green plug just below tank-support in photo and measure following terminals on connector going to handlebar-controls:

run/stop (kill) switch
OFF: red + yellow/red wire = open/no-continuity/infinite-ohms (1 on most meters)
ON: red + yellow/red wire = closed/continuity/0-ohms

start button
UP: red/black + black/red wire = open/no-continuity/infinite-ohms
PRESSED: red/black + black/red wire = closed/continuity/0-ohms

Last edited by DannoXYZ; 8-5-2019 at 5:11 PM.
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post #22 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-5-2019, 6:23 PM
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You need to look at wiring diagram and understand how starter circuit works. Starter solenoid is activated by starter-relay inside junction box. Starter-relay's activation coil is powered by +12v coming from battery going through series of switches: ign-switch, run/stop (kill switch), start button. Ground side of starter-relay's activation coil is connected to chassis-ground through series of safety-interlock switches: clutch-switch, neutral switch, kickstand switch. Any one of these switchs being in incorrect state will prevent starting. To find problem, you need to take measurements at every stage of circut:

Start at beginning and trace electricity flow using wiring diagram. Measure +12v POWER side of circuit. Measure at EVERY segment all the way to starter. Where power stops will home in on problem area.

1. Do you have power at battery? What is voltage?
2. Do you have power going out of starter-solenoid going towards ignition switch? What is this voltage?
3. Do you have power going into ignition switch? What is voltage?

- ignition-switch ON from this point
4. Do you have power going out of igniton switch? What is voltage?
5. Do you have power going into kill-switch? What is voltage?
6. Do you have power going into start button? What is voltage?

- press START button for following tests
7. Do you have power going out of start button? What is voltage?
8. Do you have power going into junction box to starter-relay? What is voltage?
9. Do you have power going out of starter-relay? What is this voltage?
10. Do you have power going into starter solenoid? What is this voltage?


Similarly, you have to measure GROUND side of starting circuit. Also need to verify these ground readings at wires going into junction box to test wiring in between as well.

11. What is resistance (ohms) between battery's negative terminal and starter's ground terminal?
12. What is resistance between clutch-switch's black+black/red wires when clutch is squeezed? That's green+yellow/green on harness side
13. What is resistance between kickstand-switch terminals when up?
14. What is resistance between neutral-switch and chassis ground?
15. What is resistance between junction-box's yellow/green wire and chassis ground?

Basically, you want to measure, BUT MAKE NO CHANGES to circuits, in order to narrow down to specific switch, wire segment or connector that is causing your no-start condition. If you mess with system, you make changes that will introduce a 2nd or 3rd fault in system and it'll get even more difficult to troubleshoot. You need to find the problem 1st through non-invasive testing, then it's simple to fix. Again, only 30-minutes or less to do properly with permanent solution.

Last edited by DannoXYZ; 8-9-2019 at 3:49 AM.
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post #23 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-5-2019, 8:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
infinite-ohms (1 on most meters)
It's an 8 turned 90 degrees on mine.
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post #24 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-5-2019, 11:12 PM
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I've started this test-sequence on my own bike to give you some examples.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
1. Do you have power at battery? What is voltage? 12.74v
2. Do you have power going out of starter-solenoid going towards ignition switch? What is this voltage?12.74v
...

Basically, you want to measure, BUT MAKE NO CHANGES to circuits, in order to narrow down to specific switch, wire segment or connector that is causing your no-start condition. If you mess with system, you make changes that will introduce a 2nd or 3rd fault in system and it'll get even more difficult to troubleshoot. You need to find the problem 1st through non-invasive testing, then it's simple to fix. Again, only 30-minutes or less to do properly with permanent solution.
This is what I mean by non-destructive testing. DON'T take anything apart to test, because you don't want to introduce extra variables into system that makes troubleshooting more difficult. So for test#2, I just back-probe white wire at starter-solenoid connector that provides power to ignition-switch and entire bike. Then follow that power up to ignition-switch and measure it at every junction on its way back to starter-solenoid WITHOUT changing anything. Where power stops is probably problem why it's not starting with start-button.

Ignition-switch should be ON and start-button PRESSED for tests after those components.


Last edited by DannoXYZ; 8-5-2019 at 11:39 PM.
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post #25 of 47 (permalink) Old 8-6-2019, 5:02 PM
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hi. the OP has an issue with the main white feed to the bike. now I may be wrong [depends on how US models are wired] but the neither the starter button or kill switch. or for that matter any of the safety switches. will kill the whole electrics system even if all the above are disconnected. there should still be power to parts of the wiring. indicators, brake lights ect.


all the other problems are secondary to getting a current feed to the ign switch. he doesn't have one.
has the solenoid been changed for a Chinese replacement with different pin outs in the connector. he needs to understand how the power flows though the bike or will be chasing his tail forever.

do the test on the white wire on the solenoid [as above] for battery power and then on the other end at the switch if there is power in both places something should work.

the loose plug is for some now removed accessory like bike alarm or heated grips I'll bet the that plug connects to the extra wires on the battery. if this is right just remove them.

I get the feeling he doesn't quite understand how the system works and so cannot test them with any degree of proficiency.
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