Time to wrap up the teardown process.
Bike is a disassembled as it can without supporting it with something. I found out a while ago that a dirt bike stand works perfect. I had one from back when I had my XR600, so that's what I used. First, had to dig it out from under all the parts I conveniently laid on top of the stand I knew I would need. Once that was excavated, I could prop the bike up onto the stand. It's heavy, but not impossibly so. With some grunting I was able to lift the back half of the bike up, pivoting on the front wheel, and set the whole thing down on the bottom of the engine.
Important to note. With the front suspension still installed, I had somehow forgotten that it's a tad front heavy and just barely wants to lean forward and fall off the stand, so I was actually holding the front end up in the picture. Not a big deal, my tools were within arms reach to pull the front wheel off, which is all that's needed to keep the bike on the stand.
Getting the front wheel off is pretty easy. The main axle bolt and nut are both a big ol' 12mm allen. The bolt and nut each have a forward facing 6mm allen pinch bolt to prevent them from backing out. Loosen one of them to start. That way, the other pinch bolt which is still tight will hold that end in place so you can back out the other side. Otherwise, you'll have to buy a second 12mm allen and one is already a rarely used tool as it is. It doesn't matter if you loosed the axle or the nut, both have to come out anyways.
Once the axle and nut are fully unthreaded, loosen the remaining pinch bolt, pull the nut out and remove the axle. You'll have to lift up on the wheel to get the weight off the axle while you wiggle it out. If it REALLY doesn't want to move, grab a hammer and long punch. This one fought me and I don't know why, might be bent. I've got plenty of straight spares so I'll swap it out.
With the wheel off it balances quite well.
Next is the wheel fairing/fender. It's hold on by four 10mm bolts, two on each side. While the gen1 front fenders are mounted by 4 inward facing bolts and can be slid forwards and out as the sides are flat, the gen2 wheel fairings flare out around the forks and can only be removed with the wheel off and sliding it all the way down to the bottom of the forks.
Now the forks can come out. Each side has a rear facing 12mm pinch bolt on the upper triple and an outward-and-somewhat-rear facing 8mm allen pinch bolt on the lower triple. I like to loosen the lower allen bolt first as it's just a bit harder to access. Get your 12mm wrench handy, hold onto the fork you want to drop and back off the upper bolt until the fork can move. If you don't hold it in place, you run the risk of the fork sliding out and getting damaged when it hits your concrete floor. Or, it'll hit your foot and damage that instead.
Slide the forks out and put them off to the side. This is what you are left with.
*NOTE* at some point I removed the ignition lock. You don't need to do this unless you are replacing yours or painting the upper tripe (I am doing the latter). It's a real paint to remove the ignition and the stock bolts are security bolts with either funky shaped heads or a head that popped off at the factory at a certain torque. The best way to get those off is find a socket which is slightly smaller than whatever is there, hammer it on and pray it doesn't round off. Usually best to do with the triple off the bike and on the work bench. This had been replaced and standard 8mm head bolts were used. Thankfully, the rest of the bolts are a standard metric size and thread pitch, either an m5 or m6, so a run to the hardware store will have you set to reinstall.
Anyways, next up is getting the upper and lower triples off. First is the big bolt under the cap in the center of the upper triple. Pop the plastic cap off with a flathead screwdriver and the bolt is 22mm. It'll be on there tight, but don't be afraid to use your biggest breaker bar to make quick work of it. Then the upper triple slides right off, followed by a generally useless metal dust shied and this is what remains.
The nut with 4 slots will only be on basically finger tight. It's used to set bearing preload, and they don't require much. If you can't quite get it off by hand, a pair of channel locks or a hammer and punch on one of the slots with get it loose, then it should unthread easily.
*NOTE*. Hold the lower triple in place. The stock bearings on these are a loose ball type. The old grease is never enough to hold on the bearings in place and they'll instantly scatter soon as there's a gap big enough to fall through.
Hold the lower triple in place until the nut is all the way off. The inner race has to come out now. That can be tricky without scattering bearings everywhere. Get something to keep the bearings from bouncing around if they fall. A bunch of shop rags, old carpet, whatever. Place it on the ground underneath and around where you're working. Let the lower triple down a little and push back up. The inner race will stick to the shaft and you should be able to grab it and side it out. Now slowly remove the lower triple. Try to keep the inner shaft from bumping the remaining bearings (some will have fallen out at this point). Once out, set it down. Grab a flathead, cup your hand underneath the steering head and pick the bearings out into your hand. The upper bearings can just drop down through the steering head tube into your hand. Wrap all the bearings up in a shop rag and stick them in a bag. If you don't, I guarantee you'll lose exactly two.
Last item on the list before frame removal is the center stand and unitrak link. Center stand is two either 17mm or 19mm bolts (can't remember right now). First, make sure it's up to relieve spring pressure. Once the bolts are out, pull the center stand up a bit more until the spring is loose enough to pull off the mounting nub, then the spring and stand can come out.
With the center stand out, the unitrak is can finally be removed.
This is why the main pivot of the unitrak never gets service. The center stand has to be up AND the weight has to be off the rear suspension.
Unitrak is easy, like the rest of the unitrak related parts, the bolt is either a 17mm or 19mm. Slide it out, set it off to the side to be cleaned later.
Ready for frame removal!
The engine is bolted in with three long 14mm bolts, each with a 14mm nut: One fore and above the stator cover/water pump (depending on which side you're standing on), one aft and below the front sprocket/clutch cover and one aft and inline with the top of the front sprocket/clutch cover.
Remove the front bolt first. As the weight shifts, a long punch and hammer may be needed as well as rocking the frame around to get the bolt to slide out. Then, don't be like me and do this in reverse order and forget the right side frame support until last. It's the L shaped part of the frame on the right side that the front engine mount bolts to and is attached to the upper part of the frame above and fore of the engine with two 14mm bolts:
(Sorry for the blurry photo, camera focused on the background)
And two 14mm bolts down near where the rearset bolted in:
Once out of the way, the final two rear bolts can be removed. As with the front, as the weight changes, the bolts will take some wiggling and whacking to remove. Luckily, there's lots of frame to grab and wiggle around.
With the two bolts off, the frame can now finally be lifted off the engine.