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Not starting

4K views 33 replies 8 participants last post by  mtdew435 
#1 ·
I recently purchased a 2005 EX500 about a month ago...it had sat up for 2 yrs. I have replaced the battery,changed oil and air filter, drained the old fuel out of tank and put a petcock on, clean the carbs, checked the spark plugs and regapped them...only way i can get it to start is spray a lil starter fluid in it..it keeps acting like its not getting any gas from tank to carbs....any help will be much appreciated
 
#3 ·
using the carb bowl drain screws, loosen each side to confirm presence of fuel in each. IF fuel is present, I'd venture to say your carb internal circuits not quite as clean as need be. If fuel is NOT present in each bowl, an obvious delivery problem exists.
 
#4 ·
Its getting fuel to carb and filling the bowls, i loosened the drain screw and fuel ran out. When i checked, petcock, nothing comes out the petcock reserve side and main is a slow steady flow. When i clean carbs, i got a carb rebuild kit and cleaned all jets.
 
#5 ·
I don't want to insult your wrenching skills here, but how familiar are you with cleaning carbs?

They can be tricky little bastards and the jets have to be practically surgically clean to work properly. The pilot jets clog very easily and they are needed to start and idle.
 
#7 ·
There is much more required than simply "poking the pilots". Multiple, interconnecting circuits exist within the bodies, not visible. Multiple systems are employed within as well. Its all gotta work together like an orchestra.

Safe to say you've missed something. Multiple attempts are fairly common in a home setting.
 
#9 ·
What carb cleaner did you use to soak the carbs? Berrymans carb dip?

Gotta being careful with soaking. Some chemicals are too harsh for rubber parts. Some Kawi carbs (like my KDX) have hidden gaskets in the jet block that get destroyed by harsh chemicals and then the bike runs like crap. Kawasaki don't even acknowledge the existence of this rubber gasket, only deep knowledge on good forums surfaces this critical info!
 
#10 ·
Some Kawi carbs (like my KDX) have hidden gaskets in the jet block that get destroyed by harsh chemicals and then the bike runs like crap. Kawasaki don't even acknowledge the existence of this rubber gasket, only deep knowledge on good forums surfaces this critical info!
...like jet block requiring removal of the torx screw pictured?
 

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#16 ·
I hadn't had a chance to look it over or take the carb back apart. I ordered another petcock, this time i did an OEM and not aftermarket...and on the carb cleaner, i can't remember the name right off top of my head..but i read on it and said don't leave submerged for more than 2 hrs if it has plastic or aluminum , hence soaked in it for 45 mins on each side. I think it was Hopps Carb cleaner
 
#17 ·
OK, finally got my new OEM petcock in and installed yesterday....it fired up and ran at idle speed. I ad to adjust it to get it to idle down...but my next issue is when you try and throttle up, it starts to sputter and shuts off. I noticed i left a vent hose off carb, reinstall and refired it...it backfired and now wont start. What could i be missing?
 
#18 ·
still something in the circuits amiss, i'd guess. A 2005 is now 14 year old, and sat for 2 years with fuel? ....clearly more aggressive clearing methods are needed, followed by careful setup.

As they say on many internet forums "Carbs are *easy*" ........NOT at all
 
#19 ·
I recleaned the carb...took breather box off and cleaned it...replaced the spark plugs...it fired up and ran for a littlw while, actually got to ride it for a little bit to see how it did. When i rolled the throttle it wanted to sputter for a few seconds but then was fine but after about 10-15 minutes riding it acted like it was wanting to flood out but it would stay running with the choke on. Is it possible its getting more gas than air and do i need to adjust the pilot air some? I appreciate all the help and advice y'all are giving...slowly making progress.
 
#24 ·
I would also suggest replacing the rubber tipped float needle. It sounds like gas is flowing past the float into the cylinder and flooding the combustion chamber.

When replacing the float needle, double check the correct float level is set.

I have a Honda Cub that sat for years. When you would run it and come to a stop light it would bog down and die. It was due to the small float needle being indented and worn out from sitting. These are cheap and good to replace, if you haven't already, when you buy a bike that has sat for a while.

Other symptoms of bad float needle:
*Too much gas in cylinder causes backfiring
*Strong smell of gas in exhaust
*Poor starting and idling
*Bogging down when initially rolling on the throttle

Hope that offers some help too.
 
#25 ·
I replaced both float needles when i bought carb rebuild kits. I took the filler cap off and took it apart...lets just say i just ordered a new one lol...it is clogged pretty bad and corroded pretty bad. Im hoping after all this it should start and run.
 
#28 ·
OK Update....sorry been awhile, i been busy with work and other stuff hadn't had a chance to. So filler cap replaced, found a clogged jet and bought a new rebuild kit...while carb off i cleaned it again. I reinstalled everything and set the pilot air screw to 2.5 turn...got it running but only on the choke and seems to want to sputter..take choke off or give it throttle it dies out. Any idea what im missing here? I've turned the pilot air screw 1 turn in and out, no different.
 
#31 ·
So i took a lil break to ease the frustration....i purchased a Haynes Manual and has helped a helluva alot, highly recommend...but long story short...i was fighting a losing battle til i discovered that the carbs were missing the needle jets the whole time. So i ordered 2 OEM jets and waiting to get here to install them.
 
#33 ·
No, i never noticed they weren't there....they don't come in any rebuild kit i looked at or the one i purchased. I knew i was over looking something cause nothing worked, but man was i glad when i purchased a Haynes service and repair manual, best $28 spent, now i know when and how to do maintence and repair on it.
 
#34 ·
Its been a long process but....got the carbs on, new throttle cable on....tank remounted....it fired up and runs perfect. Thanks for all the help, it was much needed and appreciated. I purchased it for $500 and got about $650-700 into it, so i don't think i did too bad. It was converted over to a sigle muffler..i may tackle that and go back to the duel exhaust, i like the look of dual exhaust..plus start looking for some newer plastic to replace the ones on it.
 
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