So, I figured I'd take my carbs apart and clean them this evening... unfortunately it seems the last person to mess with them or attempt to mess with them mangled the hell out of the screws. I went through all my bits and found some that were a snug fit for 6/8 of the screws. The other two are pretty much completely rounded out and I'll have to go get a tool so I can take them out.
Hopefully next week I can finish taking them apart and cleaning them.
It's interesting that the float bowl screws are mangled, indicating that the PO(s) have been into the carbs, but the A/F tamper caps are still in place. Curious to see what the insides of those carbs look like....
I'd say the untouched caps and stripped screw are a good indication a prior owner ATTEMPTED to mess with the carbs but failed in stellar fashion to even get inside.
I would....but I like to learn. Which is why I went for the parts you sell instead of the full package. Much appreciated either way though. I'll post pics after I get everything installed.
Note to do self-service carb-cleaning, you’re gonna need to buy some equipment:
- complete set of JIS screwdrivers (none of those screws are philips)
- ultrasonic cleaner
- caustic radioactive EPA-banned solvents
- guitar wire in numerous gauges
- micro soda blaster
- 10000psi compressor
You!ll also need to practice on several thousand carbs to have experience necessary if you want factory-fresh clean carbs.
Hmmm... But what if I want some back yard you did an okay job cleanish Carbs? I mean my Dad always cleaned his own on his workbench back home with nothing too fancy and he still rides his v65 Sabre around.
Seems pretty clean from the surface at least. Junk can still possibly exist in the passageways in the carb body.
Was there a specific reason for cleaning the carbs (poor running, bad starting, etc), or was it just a case of it being a maintenance exercise you wanted to perform?
All valid reasons to service. In addition, depending on mileage consider a valve clearance check. Tight exhaust valves could very well be contributory to your hard starting condition.
Whats the year and mileage?
And re carb clean...drill and pull the anti tamper caps over the pilot screws, remove screw/spring/washer/oring. That orifice is important part of the pilot circuit (but you knew that) and needs "attention".....the replacement tiny orings will be in your kit.
Reassemble at 2.5 turn starting point....when bike is running and full op temp...set each side finding the "sweet spot", but sych first if you can (bench or manometer).
Valve adjust, carb clean, synch, proper pilot screw set......and with all the other tuning crap (spark plugs, air filter, blah blah)
you'll have yourself a fine running 500. BTW...disassemble and clean the insides of the spark plug caps (lug, springs, resister inside each) and "trim" the wires if need be. You understand what I'm referring to here?
Goal...instant start at touch of button, smooth unwavering idle set to your chosen RPM, good response to throttle input, prompt return to idle after releasing throttle. Good time to lube throttle and clutch cables...setting freeplay on each.
I'm beat after all this...whew! All the rest up to you now....have fun.
I understand a bit and I feel I can figure out what I'm slightly lost on. Most of what you mentioned is already in the manual I've been following under the maintenance section so I guess I can just keep following that. I don't exactly understand the trim part of the spark plug wires, besides it probably involving trimming some wires or something of that nature, but someone has probably posted it somewhere and I'll find it eventually, if not I'll just ask on here.
Either way if I screw the carb part up too bad I can always give you some of my hard earned cash have you make it like new right? Or well buy a refurb off you. Only if I really mess up though lol
Anyone can hog my thread with all the sound advice they want to give but if you want to give bpe a chance I can wait. Probably need to move this to a different thread anyways as we've gotten away from carbs.
And I will add:
You do want to do the valve adjustment before the carb sync. To get an accurate sync.
I think your well on your way, don't hesitate to ask questions. :wink2:
Yikes. This plug is just gone. No electrode left at all.
Safe to assume the bike should run much better with some new plugs. Definitely replace them before attempting any fine tuning of the A/F screws on the carbs.
I just finished taking the cover off tonight and I'm going to try and finish up the valve clearance check/adjustment tomorrow and hopefully get some gaskets in to replace some of the old ones .
Finished the carbs, screws were set to .5 and .25 factory, Valves were completely closed and are now set to .006/.008, spark plugs/wires trimmed and cleaned up, all new gaskets, lubricated all cable lines, cleaned the air filter , drained and replaced all fluids and well I dropped my battery terminal mounts somewhere and have to pick up new ones today, once I get that I should be able to start it up.
Finished the carbs, screws were set to .5 and .25 factory, Valves were completely closed and are now set to .006/.008, spark plugs/wires trimmed and cleaned up, all new gaskets, lubricated all cable lines, cleaned the air filter , drained and replaced all fluids and well I dropped my battery terminal mounts somewhere and have to pick up new ones today, once I get that I should be able to start it up.
Wow, another one. I'll bet you're glad you spent the time on it. This "tight valve syndrome" is becoming quite common on the forum with the current crop of new owners. Valid testimony......
EX owners.....do NOT blow off the need for this vital service procedure!
An aside and a tip.....I remove the hardware on my old batteries going to recycling. Both bolt and square nuts...got a drawer full. Dropping common, good to have emergency junk around.
Brakes and chain were good as well, I just need to get a broken bolt out of my kick stand mount so I can put it back on and do some repainting and it should be done.
@bpe your valve clearance and spark plug guides were a huge help, thank you. @ducatiman thanks for the kit it worked out great and was alot easier to put back together.
I'm glad to hear those guides helped you out.
The valve adjustment guide was done on the other forum more or less as a first draft. I was wanting to improve upon it before bringing it over here. Not that the information isn't valid, but to just present it better, and maybe more in depth. I know now based on another thread earlier, it at the very least will need an oil pipe O-ring pic. :wink2:
Unfortunately bad news, I started everything up and rode it around today just checking everything I did maybe 30 miles all together on city roads. Everything was going fine until I heard a pinging sound and then it started smoking, I pushed it back to my garage and gave it a look over and it seems one of my valve cover bolts blew off. I honestly have no clue to what would cause that, everything else looks fine on it just in that one spot the bolt is completely gone.
Metal fatigue from previous installations. Finally went over limit and cracked. One tell-tale indicator of fatigue-limit failure is lack of deformation. You can put broken pieces back together and it'll look brand new. In contrast to overcoming yield or strength-limits which will show bending and stretching.
What most likely happened in this instance was valve-cover had leak. Rather than replacing valve-cover gasket, lazy PO just tightened bolts more (not realizing bolt bottoms to prevent over-compressing gasket). When that didn't stop leak, they tightened it even more to no avail. Went well over torque-spec for that bolt, but not quite enough to get into plastic region or beyond. Repeatedly overtightening results in microscopic cracks that spread over time. Eventually tiny bit of stress like hitting bump finally connects all the cracks and bolt breaks.
I'd like to track down all PO of all bikes and give them sound beating!
Yeah, real sad about it lol... It was sounding so good.
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