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Discussion Starter #21
Ok... I’ll just stop until tomorrow lol. I have to find something to occupy my mind lol
 

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Discussion Starter #23
So I got the air filter installed and still nothing. To recap. I replaced the regular gas in the tank with 93 Premium. And it hasn't started since. It cranks and I may get a little turn over but only for a second or so. I currently have the tank removed and will be attempting to check to see if the vacuum and fuel lines are operating properly
 

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Do you have fuel to the carbs? Once you visually verify that, post about it and some sort of direction can be established step by step to get you going. BTW, once again the octane rating has nothing to do with the problem at hand. In fact, new gas is better than old gas.....unless it’s contaminated.
 
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in your post #4 you refer to an inline filter. Historically, these have been problematic due to the little bit of extra fuel line and resultant routeing required to enable gravity fuel feed. Instances exist where extra length fuel line has caused kinking, resulting in fuel starvation.
GET RID OF THE INLINE. Get 5/16" ID fuel line from your auto parts store, 8 3/4" length, routed correctly from the lower rail, up BETWEEN (inside) the carb braces, then bending towards the petcock. Thus returning to factory spec fuel delivery.
You could add the little Kawasaki rail strainer if so inclined. Provided you have no dead birds, rocks, stones, road debris passing through the petcock screens (are they present?) its all the filtration needed.
At that point, retry your start procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
So I rechecked to see if the fuel tap was working and sucking on it gets fuel out the fuel line and I checked the carbs they had gas in them I drained it and attempted to start it again. It cranked and I got it to start a few timeS and it died out quickly. It started and ran by its self one time. It seemed to be operating perfectly this particular time. I turned it off and I think the battery was shot soon after. I noticed that sometimes if I put my finger on the vacuum hose it the bike will get the right amount of compression and start... I also removed the hose with the filter... I also removed the spark plugs and the right one was pretty wet and blackish the left one was ok. I'm gonna get new plugs in the morning
 

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Sounds like the right side is too rich. Could be either of a few things or even a combination of them.

Were the carbs off and/or disassembled?

Charge the battery so you have a full charge for the next attempt. Change out the plugs as you have planned.

Don’t do anything else. Attempt a normal start and get back to us so collectively we can make an attempt to sort out what you have going on.

There are only 3 things that affect an engines ability to start and run. Air, properly metered fuel and properly timed spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Got new Plugs. Still having trouble starting it with the gas tank on. I'm even trying to hover the tank over the bike to make the most direct connections. I took the gas tank back off the bike and but my finger over the suction vacuum hose that goes to he fuel tap and got it started. Revved it a few times but of course it died when the gas ran out of the carbs. I'd like to make a makeshift gas tank and see if it runs with that if someone could direct me to a tutorial and Are there metal braided hoses I can buy for these applications That might help? The picture is of the suction hose I put my finger on the start the bike.
 

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A long shot:
The tank petcock have a diaphragm to let pass gas when there is vacuum applied to it. Would be possible this diaphragm has a pinch hole and let pass gas through vacuum hose to the carbs? Would this cause a overly rich condition at one cyl?
 

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My guess at the moment is that the carbs probably weren't cleaned very well or they have got dried gas in the jets as it may have been stood a while since they were cleaned and you buying it.
I would be cleaning them before making any adjustments.
You can buy auxilliary gas tanks off ebay etc, they are quite useful to have.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I guess I’ll be cleaning them. It’s just really baffling that I was able to test ride it a week ago
 

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As I’m not there to see exactly what’s going on, it appears to me that you have a fuel supply issue.

Before you jump in and start taking things apart, consider that from what you’ve told us, it does in fact run. Once the fuel in the carb float bowls is gone, it shuts down.

Therefore, my only input is, there isn’t much in the way of components between the tank and the carbs. Namely, just the pet cock.

Therefore, if you bypass the pet cock and you have a direct supply from the tank to the carbs you should be able to start and run without it shutting down.

Run a fuel line direct to the carbs from the tank. You can set the tank on a stool or bench away from the bike and just use a long length of fuel hose. Give that a try. If the bike runs fine and doesn’t shut down then the problem is the pet cock.

If it still shuts down then either the tank isn’t venting as the fuel level drops, or the carbs need some attention. If that turns out to be the case, I’m certain @ducatiman can have you sorted out in no time.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Ok so I decided to stop chasing the same problem and start over. I bought a compression tester but it didn’t come with an 18mm adapter that I need (Go me). So I couldn’t test compression just yet. I bought a spark plug gap tool and gapped the plugs to the right spec .6-.7mm. The old plugs were not gapped either. But I am not getting spark from either plug. So I need to trace that issue down. I’m thinking of coils first?
 

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But I am not getting spark from either plug.
Define your testing method leading to this diagnosis, please.
You posted just 2 days ago bike started, though with continuing difficulties. So far within your thread you've suspected and highlighted grade of fuel, carbs, air filter, battery, petcock, spark plugs.....now COILS? Before purchasing coils and performing a likely needless "dumb swap" please answer above. The primary and secondary coil circuits can be tested with an ohmmeter to see if their readings are out of whack or not. Also highly unlikely (if not impossible) BOTH coils would fail in just 2 days of no use.

I'm thinking your bike is suffering multiple, overlapping service and adjustment issues (likely stemming from dormancy and lack of proper service from PO) culminating in less than reliable starting, idling, throttle response.

Where are you located? Enlisting help from an experienced, local EX member/owner would cut to the chase I think.
 

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bought a compression tester but it didn’t come with an 18mm adapter that I need (Go me)
Requires a 12mm adapter, not 18. Actual spark plug thread size is 12mm (with a 1.25mm pitch) ...... 18 is the hex diameter of the spark plug...in other words the proper wrench size used to remove/install a DR9EA NGK spark plug.
Understand? Am I being clear? Perhaps it WAS supplied in the compression test kit after all. You need to check.
 

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Quoting myself from some 10 posts back:
Don’t do anything else. Attempt a normal start and get back to us so collectively we can make an attempt to sort out what you have going on.
Jumping around without some sort of logical progression is not helping your case. You started over without concluding the diagnostic path you were on. Hence, you've now jumped to conclusions and suspect the coils.

How exactly did you test for spark? I refer back to ducatiman's post, coils aren't going to go bad all of sudden in a couple of days. You had it running intermittently, at least that is how you described the event to the members of this forum. If it ran then, the coils are fine.

We then started down the path of fuel supply which was supposed to be confirmed and was not. I'm beginning to suspect some deficiencies in your diagnostic attempts. My last bit of advice is, take it to a professional before you royally screw it up. I'm out.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
If ur not messing stuff up your not learning was the first lesson I was taught when I use to build nuclear submarines lol. I’m not jumping around. I understand spark fuel compression air. But after testing fuel a few days and pretty much confirming fuel is traveling from the tank to the Carbs, I figured before I got into breaking down the carbs I’d check spark and compression Off the list FOR SURE as they are the easiest to check and verify. I bought an in-line spark tester as well as grounding the spark plugs to the engine and I did not get any spark. I tested the ignition coils and they both read 2.8 ohms which (I think is in spec i checked earlier) on two of the connections and I haven’t tested the others yet. I also did enlist the help of a person that knows what they are doing they were not able to see spark either. Which is how we got to the ignition coils. I agree both ignition coils wouldn’t go bad at one time tho
 
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