Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R banner
1 - 20 of 91 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In 1989 my ex taught me to ride on her EX. This bike saw a lot of adventure, a lot of states. I was generally on a hurricane 1k or a zx9. I put a lot of miles behind the wheel of that EX. Crashed it a few times as well. The worst saw it hurled over a 10 foot cement rain drainage thing. She rebuilt it. Then the motor died. I got a very low mile motor in the early 2ks. I had forgotten about the stator cover I swapped (read, not flywheel) these many years later. It never started, clearly, and made some pretty awful clanking noises when trying. I had presumed I got stung on the motor.

Years later she would give me the bike and asked me to rebuild it however I wanted. It has been sitting in my garage for years as I dealt with life and kids, for whom I stopped riding on learning they were coming.

Something bit me a couple months ago and I began looking for another motor on Craigslist, and found it. That is when I began researching this site, and discovered what a colossal boob I was 15 yrs ago, and likely now have 2 working motors... probably jacked the valves up, not sure the results of not swapping the flywheel. Sounded like a project to be played with while I built a working bike. This will be where I document the details. This is me in about 90 on my bike, next to the EX. Pearl white, black and red decals.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So on to the teardown. Rust removal.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Of course the forks ate it hard in the big crash. I tried to land it... the bar risers snapped in my hands. It was what you could call a hard landing. She got forking by frank and progressive springs. It was a shame the state they were in from neglect. Replaced the seals and went at them gently with oil and 2000 grit roundwise. And on to paint. I always liked the pearl white, and wanted to keep an element of it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
And now some back togethering and rejiggering. Clean and replace bearings grease it all. Recovered the seat. Quilted the important parts. Now knee deep into the wiring harness. Got new bars, switches housings, lights... just making it all go. Oh, and of course that pesky flywheel before getting the engine in. She also got a Vance and Hines full exhaust and jetted the carbs. I have been reading here that's probably not a good thing. I have a secondary set of carbs I picked up with the new engine that is stock, so I will figure that out. Did the old valve gapping while it was out as well. Getting close to firing it up. Recommendations welcome.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Blew out my back, pretty excruciating by the time I get home from work so going slow. But everything is wired correctly (more soldering connectors etc, but it all works w new handlebar instruments). Just need a couple more things, like a radiator and some plug wires, and I'll be ready to test fire.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,866 Posts
Whoa! How did I miss this thread? That's quite a story. When you ride that thing it'll probably feel like reconnecting with an old friend. Good for you for bring her back from the dead.
 

·
Administrator
07 Ducati SS800 '95 Ducati 900SS/SP '19 Honda CBR650R
Joined
·
16,105 Posts
As did I
A 10 foot drop of some sort puts you in the class of Evel (Kneivel, not Monkey)
Subscribed and following as the Gen 1’s becoming rare
Welcome member @ctrl
Needless to say, pics are desired!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I’m bummed this thread died. Subbed incase he ever comes back.
Dead but not forgotten!

Took a year off then got into some rabit holes. Figured out the gen 2 stator on a gen 1. Modified 1 and bought another. Replaced a lot of old electronics trying to get it to fire... Then covid... But Im back!

I think ive just figured out why its not starting. It cranks but no fire. Coils are hot (and replaced). It might be this pesky 100ohm resister im reading about as I swapped the ignition switch. Anybody know if that thing was on the 1st gen? Anybody know what wire to solder one on to? THIS is the year friends. I have a spare motor with 1200 miles on it too... Feel like i should put some performance into it...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
all the info you need is here waiting to be looked at. www.ex-500.com/threads/how-to-fit-a-aftermarket-gen-1-switch-to-a-gen-2-bike-and-why-you-may-need-to.69402/#post-937628.
and no the gen 1 has no resistor in it.
I am trying to test everything around the ic ignitor and maybe you can help me. I have a gen 1 motor and gen 1 flywheel (now). There was much fuckery done trying to fit the square peg in the round hole previously there however. Now there are 1 or 2 sensors in the case depending on generation (I honestly cant remember which now... I think 2 for first gen). As I understand it as the flywheel spins these send some kind of signal to the igniter which then sends signal to the coils on what must be the ground... Is that right? How do I test those signals in and out of igniter? Is the magnet just closing a loop so its continuity?

Ok... So continuity changes as it rotates on each sensor so im saying that works. What do i need to test the signal to the coil? Dont say an oscilloscope.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,384 Posts
the triggers are just hall sensors. 1 on a gen 2, 2 on a gen 1 because the gen 1 has just one small trigger on the flywheel as it passes the two sensors (180degrees apart) if fires one then the other as it passes each sensor.
the gen 2 has one long trigger (it is this that has to be cut when converting to gen 1) it fires each plug from one sensor at the start of the trigger and at the end completely different systems. not sure how these are tested possibly the same as normal hall sensors by doing a continuity check while passing the trigger underneath it but I have never had to do one on the EX.
unfortunately if the wiring has been messed with the fault could be anywhere in the ignition system from the key lock to the plugs. personally if it was mine and all attempts at a repair were unsuccessful I would start with a good undamaged harness loom and then replace each bit one at a time with known good units until the fault or faults are found.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
the triggers are just hall sensors. 1 on a gen 2, 2 on a gen 1 because the gen 1 has just one small trigger on the flywheel as it passes the two sensors (180degrees apart) if fires one then the other as it passes each sensor.
the gen 2 has one long trigger (it is this that has to be cut when converting to gen 1) it fires each plug from one sensor at the start of the trigger and at the end completely different systems. not sure how these are tested possibly the same as normal hall sensors by doing a continuity check while passing the trigger underneath it but I have never had to do one on the EX.
unfortunately if the wiring has been messed with the fault could be anywhere in the ignition system from the key lock to the plugs. personally if it was mine and all attempts at a repair were unsuccessful I would start with a good undamaged harness loom and then replace each bit one at a time with known good units until the fault or faults are found.
Thanks for the reply. The coils get 12v to the reds and like around 5 to the black and green respectively while cranking. No spark at plug. So either its not getting enough juice to fire or coils or wires me thinks. I have gotten so far im not ready to trash the loom yet. I will keep reading to see what I am supposed to read on the black and green wires. They clymers states how to test fault on coils.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,384 Posts
have you considered a faulty CDI (igniter) while they are super reliable if someone at sometime caused a short circuit it could blow the unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Plug wires. First vehicle in my life that was the source. Finally started. Now I gotta cut the tank open so I can get the rust out and weld it back together. Its reaaaaal dusty in there. Unfortunately I can't post video. Sounds amazing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So the bike runs. Thats the good news. The tank, while free of blemishes was reaaaaaaally rusty. Here is some **** from my tank. Most of it is sealer from 20 years ago. I have painstakingly removed all the loose bits with vacuums and magnets and air and water. I have etched it thouroughly with oxalic acid and rinsed and baked it. Now i have 2 remaining questions.

1. I grabbed a cheap petcock off ebay and it does not use vacuum from the carbs. Its just open. Is that an issue?

2. As memory serves kawasaki provides phillips screws made of butter to that petcock. Does anyone know the size and pitch of those screws so i can replace them with bolts?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,384 Posts
1. no providing you remember to turn it to OFF every time you park the bike. although 95% of aftermarket petcocks don't fit as they are too tall and foul the frame when the tank is on. also you will need to blank the vacuum port on the left carb where the old petcock vac line came from.
2. the reason all this type of screw is cheesy is because they are NOT Phillips headed but a special JIS head using the wrong driver is what makes them cheesy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So I ordered replacement rubber for the petcock and screws from kawasaki after reading of miserable failure from rebuild kits and screw replacement. There are a lot of threads calling these screws 6x20 which they are... But they are fine pitch .75 which exists at no normal store. All the hardware stores I hit, lowes home depot ace etc plus 5 had only m6 at regular 1.0 pitch. I repainted the tank to fix flaws.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 91 Posts
Top