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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Carbs still arent right. Shocks dead. Runs like a bat out of hell while running. Had to lower float height to 15mm and screw in to half a turn out. Doesnt like idling. Guess I will send to ducatiman. Looking into fork seals. Had progressive springs put in that got almost no use. Seems like that wouldnt be the problem. Will see. Rear shock seems fine.
 

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07 Ducati SS800 '95 Ducati 900SS/SP '19 Honda CBR650R
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Carbs still arent right. Shocks dead. Runs like a bat out of hell while running. Had to lower float height to 15mm and screw in to half a turn out. Doesnt like idling. Guess I will send to ducatiman.
ready, willing and able whenever. My email is [email protected]
 

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Carbs still arent right. Shocks dead. Runs like a bat out of hell while running. Had to lower float height to 15mm and screw in to half a turn out. Doesnt like idling. Guess I will send to ducatiman. Looking into fork seals. Had progressive springs put in that got almost no use. Seems like that wouldnt be the problem. Will see. Rear shock seems fine.
Sounds like your pilot is too big; either the wrong size or hogged out.

DM is a good bet at this point....
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 · (Edited)
I am having all the classic problems here. Noticed it was getting harder to turn over the bike... Thought it might be a weakening battery. As some of you have guessed it was the starter clutch screws backing out.
Been fishing out a good bit of metal. Luckily i have spare parts. But as I go to mess with this... I am used to seeing a key here that the flywheel goes on... What gives?

*edit- Woodruff key. Got it nm.
 

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yes it is correct, your doing the classic mistake of looking at the inside of the cams not the outside and thinking there out it is far easier to see the marks on the outside join.
count the links from punch mark to punch mark to see how much stretch there is, (this will determine how far out the "C" mark is when bolted up) make sure the CCT is out before fitting the centre chain slider, (it should be removed prior to dismantling) set it all up fit the slider, re set the CCT and fit it then turn the engine over (by hand 2x) clock wise (via the flywheel bolt to reset the CCT.
roll it round until the timing marks are correct and see if the "C" mark is still in line. (almost) once the valves have been reset your good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
yes it is correct, your doing the classic mistake of looking at the inside of the cams not the outside and thinking there out it is far easier to see the marks on the outside join.
count the links from punch mark to punch mark to see how much stretch there is, (this will determine how far out the "C" mark is when bolted up) make sure the CCT is out before fitting the centre chain slider, (it should be removed prior to dismantling) set it all up fit the slider, re set the CCT and fit it then turn the engine over (by hand 2x) clock wise (via the flywheel bolt to reset the CCT.
roll it round until the timing marks are correct and see if the "C" mark is still in line. (almost) once the valves have been reset your good to go.
It was inversed. The first photo you will see there are no punch marks at the top of the cam gear. They were on the other side. The second pic is my correction. I couldnt get a good pic through the frame of the outside. It was reversed though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
I have another question that feels dumb but... Book says fork fluid measures 131mm forks compressed without springs... It just means the main springs... Not the rest of the guts and little springs right?
 

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Yes. But remember that level is a tunable feature. The air above the oil has a compression ratio and ca be adjusted, for reason

Fog
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Yes. But remember that level is a tunable feature. The air above the oil has a compression ratio and ca be adjusted, for reason

Fog
Thanks. The amount of crap you know is astounding. I dont plan on getting a knee down in my advanced age. Ill probably be just fine with factory spec... But ya never know... It's now something I know. You have... Infected me with knowledge.
 

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That does make sense as I just had the valve cover off, but I'm surprised it would leak it's way past the spark plug into the cylinder
yeah but there is nowhere for the leaking coolant (going passed the cooling tube "O" ring) to go only down into the plug well. when it gets there it drains out passed the plug through a hole in the side of the head. (2nd or 3rd fin down) if the hole is block the coolant sits in the plug well and get on the plug when you take it out.
 
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