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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm putting this Kawasaki ex 500 engine on a Chinese motorcycle dual sport and I am asking because I can't figure out I'm too stupid I don't know which one needs to be where when what so I'd like to hook it up to the stock harness on the tbr7 so I would assume I needed to address the wires going into the stator and pick up area of the engine with the IC unit which I have and I'm eliminating the fuse block to simplify it so I have basically on the colored schematic direction on where those five wires go that is coming out of the IC unit the other ones are already obvious because they go into the motor which I haven't molested yet or the alternator ones so I'm guessing that the brown one is power supply going into the rectifier regulator the yellow one is power to charge the battery the white and red one changes to White it looks like so I'm assuming that's in a positive wire but it comes off of the relay so I don't know if it's going to be one that has power to certain time and it doesn't and I also noticed that it has the oil pressure sending unit ends up tagging into the brown one eventually so I would just assume that the oil pressure sending unit goes straight to power positive as well but I'm not sure anyways you get what I'm asking anybody can help I've looked on the website and I have come up with I have the book with both of the wiring diagrams and I'm just not bright enough I can do everything else I just need help on this stuff it would really be cool cuz then I wouldn't have to go ask people in my group that is very limited to just pretty much people I'd like to not have to ask because I'd like to show thim that I figured it out and got it for once with help from yall know but cuz I need help anyways. The only discrepancy between the two are the colored schematic says it's a green wire coming out of the IC unit but my bike has a green and white wire coming out I'm assuming it's the same thing considering all the rest of them match up and it runs to the coil so then on the non-colored schematic the one that's running to the clutch switch is green and yellow not whatever color it's saying it is

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It is like apples to rotten oranges I would just strip the Chinese wiring harness and use the Kawasaki one in its place. That way when there is an issue on the performance you can use the diagram and trace it out. All of those non main stream bikes are known for bad horrifical wire quality.
 

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I might also add: using even the master cylinders and brake light switches, key switch also would recommend. Might also add do not use their regulator, or CDI unit. Use the complete wiring harness and as much of the hardware as possible that connects to the wiring. The headlight should be safe, maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Unfortunately I mangled it just a tad have it narrowed down to this so from what I've read the brown is the power wire the yellow is also power wire from the clutch switch I believe right and then the red wires on the coils can get constant power right the red and white on the IC unit is ground but the brown going into the regulator rectifier that has to be the power in right so the power out would be the yellow probably on the left hand side of the alternator the green or green and white one on my case for some reason on the ICU unit is goes to the coil number one and I can also use that as a tax signal correct the brown one from what I understand comes from or goes to I mean the oil pressure switch as well which grounds out and into the engine but it's not necessary to run it correctly I just need to ground the white and red and make sure that the brown w wire assuming it is positive battery needs also hook into the yellow doesn't it and also into the coil side I'm new at this have patience I didn't think I'd get this far
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
And the white wire is the white and red correct which needs to be grounded not going to positive like I haven't shown in the picture there and the only one going to positive power should be the brown one right
 

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Ok like WOW, I think I understand what you are trying to do, by the way it's not because your not smart this sort of thing is the hardest type of of conversion ever. there are people with years of experience who would be pulling their hair out by this point. I will try and explain (thanks @FlipFlop) for a good start.

Japanese electronics and Chinese wiring DO NOT mix. if you think they do good luck. for a start you have the feed wires and ground wires mixed up in the belief that a wire of the same colour does the same thing, WRONG.
the brown is not a power wire it's an aux feed wire the white is not a ground wire but the main power feed wire japanese wiring is wildly different from the BASIC 5 wire Chinese stuff. wire it up like you have it and I gaurantee it blows up.
your first mistake is deleting the fuse box it contains all the relays and connections from one sub circuit to other sub circuits.
the Chinese cut corners and simplify everything the Japanese do not. at this point your best option is obtain a unmolested GEN1 wire harness complete (with fuse box) and start again.
use all the EX wiring and components connected to their proper connectors then graft the bikes lights onto the wires for the EX harness once you have established the correct colour wires to do it. it's really the only way or your going to fail big time. this is advice only of course coming from someone who has been doing this sort of thing for decades.
 

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And the white wire is the white and red correct which needs to be grounded not going to positive like I haven't shown in the picture there and the only one going to positive power should be the brown one right
NO completely wrong, sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay so I'm going to use the stock fuse box so would you like more pictures of the actual parts that I have from the ex 500 so you can see exactly and walk me through this just online so I can do this and be happy then we're just going to wire the engine to run if I have it's a benefit to have the alternator/stator for charging but from what I understand it's an AC system so it's not needed correct to run the motor it can take power from the battery for the ignition right even though it looks like it's supplies power from the stator so it doesn't drop on the battery after it started and what I'm looking at if I see it right so I'll go from step One I'll get you the pictures of what it is and can I get a step two from you in comfort, and I'm aware of the color changing things cuz it is right off the bat goes from red to black🤦🏽
 

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I don't think you fully understand the implications of all this. basically and I mean basic you need the wiring to run exactly as it was on the EX that means ALL the wiring intact, ALL the components intact, in one big circuit.
this means using, not only the fuse box, CDI/igniter, starter solenoid, regulator/rectifier, coils, but also the ignition switch, handlebar switches, clutch switch, kickstand switch, possibly brake light switches.
and then think of how the bikes equipment can be grafted onto this complete circuit for lights, indicators, let alone rev counter, radiator switches, gauges and such like.
you need to think long and hard where the EX wiring ends and the TBR7 wiring starts.

if you only want to get the engine running you still need everything in place or again basically one circuit will not talk to another circuit and it will not run while it's possible to run it without the alternator connect you will still need the ignition circuit, trigger circuit, and engine management circuits all connected.
one further complication is you can only use the components that fit the gen 1 (89 to 93) bike as the later gen 2 (94 on) are completely different and not wired up the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got it least I have spark I just hope it's right so I took the red coil wire ran it to the battery as well as the white wire I ran it to the battery I ran the brown wire to the yellow wire and I ran the red and white wire to ground I think that's it and said the normal Coil black and green red and that gave me spark and I was able to leave the Chinese harness completely separate from the engine harness other than a hooking to the battery post and grounding
 

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ok so you have sparks so it should run, at this point I have no idea how you did it in such an unconventional way (must be smarter than I am) good luck with the rest of the conversion I don't think I could help any further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok so you have sparks so it should run, at this point I have no idea how you did it in such an unconventional way (must be smarter than I am) good luck with the rest of the conversion I don't think I could help any further.
I just looked at it honest and then I eliminated everything and I listened to the people on the site like you so cuz I had to go and look at the stock fuse panel to think of how to eliminate the situation of it again which made it simpler after I read the red and white one needs to be grounded out because that made sense to me when I was looking at the stator and the rectifier regulator because it goes from Red white to White off of the relay at the regulator but in order for it to be red and white on that side it would have to be a negative because it's positive on the other side coming to it and so that I thought the same manner is the black kind of does that in another port and so this system runs off of a complete loop basically of positive power not being interrupted and it's either interrupted by grounding out or it's interrupted by opening the loop and breaking it so I had to figure that out
ok so you have sparks so it should run, at this point I have no idea how you did it in such an unconventional way (must be smarter than I am) good luck with the rest of the conversion I don't think I could help any further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just looked at it honest and then I eliminated everything and I listened to the people on the site like you so cuz I had to go and look at the stock fuse panel to think of how to eliminate the situation of it again which made it simpler after I read the red and white one needs to be grounded out because that made sense to me when I was looking at the stator and the rectifier regulator because it goes from Red white to White off of the relay at the regulator but in order for it to be red and white on that side it would have to be a negative because it's positive on the other side coming to it and so that I thought the same manner is the black kind of does that in another port and so this system runs off of a complete loop basically of positive power not being interrupted and it's either interrupted by grounding out or it's interrupted by opening the loop and breaking it so I had to figure that out
It runs I sprayed some gas and intake runners sounds like a nice runner solid I had to clean it up it took me that long all day just to fix the wiring to make it look nice I'll put pictures up
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It runs I sprayed some gas and intake runners sounds like a nice runner solid I had to clean it up it took me that long all day just to fix the wiring to make it look nice I'll put pictures up

so I just ran the power to ground and it kills it 😌😌 glad it shut it off LoL 😂 I also figured out how to cram the water lines and thermostat housing under the fuel tank.... .. ya can't👀🚫🤥 but had enough room between the tank and the handlebars to mount it above the radiator
 
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