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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone I am in need of some help from you all, so I've have a 1994 ex500 I picked up that's leaving me sitting back scratching my head lol.

So it will idle/run for about 3-5 minutes then wight smoke will blow out of the left exhaust (if sitting on the bike) then after 30-45 seconds will get worse untill it dies, and won't want to start.

Things I have tried are changing oil/filter, sparkplugs, cleaning and bench syncing the carbs, and fresh gas.

My thought was a gasket failed somewhere and is eating coolant but the coolant Level isn't dropping, from what I can tell neither is the oil level.

I'm an not sure where to go from here, Thanks for reading, and any input you can give me is appreciated! 馃槉
 

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WHITE smoke usually indicates water burning odds are you have a head gasket leak do a compression check.'you didn't say if it runs above idle or have you ridden it.

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK thank you I will give that a shot thank you, I rode is for a couple of muinets untill it died from this issue.
 

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Can you give more details about the color and smell of the smoke?

In this case, the color and smell of the smoke can give you clues as to what is wrong.

Generally speaking, the most common smoke is:

  • Sweet smelling white smoke: Antifreeze passing into the combustion chamber. Damaged head gasket.
  • Bluish gray smoke with the smell of burnt almonds: Excess oil in cylinders. Damaged piston rings, or scratched cylinder liner. In addition to the smoke, the exhaust is oily.
  • Black smoke and the smell of gasoline: Incorrect combustion. Not all of the fuel entering the piston is being burned. This can be a problem with the carburettors, which do not have the correct nozzles (very fat mixture) or a problem with the spark, which is very weak. It also leaves soot on the tip of the exhausts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK so results of the evening are, I wasn't able to get it to die on idle tonight witch is odd, but running rough and a little wight smoke, the smell was a little sweet at times if I am not just imagining things and the the results of the compression test are 130ish psi in the right cylinder and left side (where the smoke is) bounces from 90psi-100psi depending on the attempt.
So I'm figuring the left cylinder has some a leak in it right? What's your alls take on these numbers?
On a side note I did find a vacum leak in the left carb boot, but that wouldn't cause the compression test to be low right?
 

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Read and do.

鈥淟APPING THE HEAD TO CURE OVERHEATING鈥

Fog
 
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Vacuum leak and low compression 2 separate issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just an update I've got her all apart lapping the cylinder and head now, I did find a bent exhaust valve on the low cylinder, guessing that's my problem right? don't think is was closing all way, ordered a new valve, a few followup questions for yall!
how much do I need to hone this head/cylinder never done it myself before?
with the discovery of this mildly bent valve what else do I need to check to make sure the rest is OK?
Things I have checked The timming was set properly, no dents or marring on the piston, and the valve guid is fine and smooth when trying with other valves.
 

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How old is this thing mileage wise that it is bending valves...are you sure your timing was correct?

Bent valves is not something that should be happening. At a minimum would probably advise inspecting your cam chain and tensioner...And probably look at replacing them. Hopefully this thing wasn't running very much in these conditions.

To answer additional task work. Solely on the new valve topic, it will need at minimum lapped to the existing seats.

For the head, til it's very flat. Use a lapping plate of some sort. You can also use a straight edge across it and feeler gauges to get a feel for where you are flatness wise.

Sounds like you have some work cut out for you here.
 

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here are some pic to show you how lapping is done
Bottom: the plate
next p: partially cleaned note the rings from the compression rings
middle finished head and cylinders
Top: partially cleaned up you can see the warpage and the why it must be done

FOG
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@fog
Do you want me to edit those pics into the How-To thread?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah on the odometer is 34k and a 1994 not sure if that's a ton or not for these bikes, picked her up as an abandoned project from a guy who was over his head fixing it. So I wanted a go, but excited to learn from the work I get to put in, all he kmew/told me was the last owner left it to sit for some reason. (and we're finding out why now I guess lol)

I checked and checked and found no dents or marring on the piston, or anything to indicate the timing was off, the cam chain tensioner looks OK from what I understand, and isn't under full travel to tension the chain, the timing markes on the flywheel and on the cams lined up perfectly when removing. I personally didnt run it much how it sat, and last owner didn't have much luck either. Not sure what the cause is of that bent valve is, it's not massively bent but enough It gets suck in the guide for sure.

Thanks for the examples on the honing prosess, I've been plugging away at them, with valve lapping coumpund and a glass pane.

Things I've done so far to the top end - lap the valves minus the bent one, cleaned out all the built up carbon and junk along with the pistons, am honing the head/cylinder now.

What I am going to do before putting it together, home the cylinder sleeve itself, finish that new valve, and set the valve lash. Anything else you all would advise I should be doing to help be suscessful?
 

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Well, if it were me...When it's together, I'd manually turn it over multiple times and make sure it's all good while rolling over really damn slow.

34k isn't too bad, imo. Depends on it's prior owners. Some die young, some roll pretty far.

When you set the timing, Make sure your at TDC, double check the marks against some pictures from the manual. I dug out an old link below. Make sure intake cam (marked IN) is on intake side (airbox/carb side) and exhaust (marked EX) is on exhaust side ( headers / front of bike side), additionally make sure the pin count (24) is correct when you're dropping the cams in.

More details with pictures on an older FOG post

Again, make sure you do this while the engine is at TDC or you're gonna have a bad time.

When all set-up, manually rotate and double check marks after a few revolutions, set valve lash, put it back together.

Then most importantly, ask the bike for forgiveness against prior transgressions and try to start it.
 

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"Then most importantly, ask the bike for forgiveness against prior transgressions and try to start it."

This kind of personification of a inanament object is half the reason some have difficulty understanding how the machine works. It's just a mechanical device where one part is attached to another and they move together.
There is no brain (except in my SL55AMG which has several) and it doesn't think.
Stop giving it names (except SOB)
and you'll have better sucess

FOG
 
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