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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i got on the highway and everything,was good. About a mile down the road I could feel,it starting to bog. Another 1/4 and it was done. I had to jump it off before I left. And rode about 15 min. Well there was absolutly no charge on the battary when it died. So i got it to a gas station and put fuel in it(thought thats why it died) and got someone to jump it off for me. Well I hooked the cables up wrong.... It blew the fuse thats on the start solenoid. So i replaced thsy and put a good battary in it. It cranked right up but when i gave it throttle it would sputter and bog then it djed and completly drained the battary. Im guessing the stator has gone out on it but my buddy says a ground wire is off somewhere. He also said the bike will,not run if the staror is bad even of the battary has charge to it. I dont think he is correct bur can anyone clear this up and give me a little direction which way to,go. Thanks guys!
 

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Ok so, you have a 91 which is a gen 1 bike, gen 1's suffer from exploding magnet syndrome, where the exposed magnets drop off the flywheel and get mangled in the stator, suggest you remove the flywheel case and inspect this first.
if the battery is running flat sure sign it's not charging. could be alternator (as above) or the RR has packed in.

your friend is not correct these bikes will run on battery power alone for as long as it takes to drain the battery (note I once rode 30miles with no RR connected) on a full battery, of course we have the ability to turn off the lights and save power a great deal, doubt if your US models could do this for more than a 15mins or so.

on a secondary note, you have posted 3 previous questions with zero feedback or comments as to whether each of the other issue were fixed, this is important as the forum will have no idea if any continued issues are different or the same unresolved fault that is causing your problems. don't forget although the bike is low mileage it is very old so will not be as good as it once was due to being stored for long periods during it's life. a complete check over of all maintenance items should be done ASAP.
 
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07 Ducati SS800 '95 Ducati 900SS/SP '19 Honda CBR650R
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Both Gen 1 and general EX issues have long been documented here on EX, facts proven by repeated experience coupled with logic and knowledge. All are fully open to investigation using forum resources.

A bit late now, but I'll contend forum could have been better "tuned" to Gen 1 vs Gen 2 issues via dedicated, pointed, specific forum sections to each Gen.
 
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84' Goldwing Aspencade, 91' EX500, 98' Ninja 250/17' 300 engine, 07' EX500
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I have a 91, and I was lucky enough to catch it time. I went with a Gen 2 flywheel, and modified it per Fog's write-up.

It's a cheap one to do, providing you can find a Gen 2 flywheel cheap.

Otherwise you can order the one from overseas that a bolt on part, no modifications needed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok guys im pretty confused. It's got power now but the tach is jumping all over the place and its sputtering all over the place. Its good at idol but anytbing after that is sputtering and all over. Could this be from me hooking the battary up backwards?
 

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Ok guys im pretty confused. It's got power now but the tach is jumping all over the place and its sputtering all over the place. Its good at idol but anytbing after that is sputtering and all over. Could this be from me hooking the battary up backwards?
I tried finding a drawing of the [email protected] . This is my take on the matter, you took out the 30 amp fuse, depending on the regulator, threr is a good chance you took out one or more diodes, also some other areas could be damaged. Trying to diagnose running is a waste of time. With a proper drawing I could guide you. You have multiple problems , a charging issue before boosting in reverse polarity, accepting the key was on , that 30 amp fuse did damage some where.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok so you
I have a 91, and I was lucky enough to catch it time. I went with a Gen 2 flywheel, and modified it per Fog's write-up.

It's a cheap one to do, providing you can find a Gen 2 flywheel cheap.

Otherwise you can order the one from overseas that a bolt on part, no modifications needed.
Yup that was definatly my issue!! The magnets have come ungleued. And broken in a couple spots. Could have been alot worse! Ill send pictures
 

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I tried finding a drawing of the [email protected] . This is my take on the matter, you took out the 30 amp fuse, depending on the regulator, threr is a good chance you took out one or more diodes, also some other areas could be damaged. Trying to diagnose running is a waste of time. With a proper drawing I could guide you. You have multiple problems , a charging issue before boosting in reverse polarity, accepting the key was on , that 30 amp fuse did damage some where.
it's a possibility anything is possible at the moment though it's all guessing games if I was any good at those I would have won the lottery a few times over. there are set down tests and procedures to follow starting at no1.
Ok so you
Yup that was definatly my issue!! The magnets have come unglued. And broken in a couple spots. Could have been alot worse! Ill send picture
ok that's no 1 out of the way you need a new flywheel some have re-glued them using JB weld as a temporary measure but I wouldn't recommend it, you could do a fix if it's not too bad just to test out the systems while you obtain a new flywheel. pictures would help.
Broke 2 magnets off. Whats the best fix?
there is only one permanent fix replace the flywheel with one that has enclosed magnets I'm afraid, either a gen 2 one (modified) or one of those after market built for the gen 1 types.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I tried finding a drawing of the [email protected] . This is my take on the matter, you took out the 30 amp fuse, depending on the regulator, threr is a good chance you took out one or more diodes, also some other areas could be damaged. Trying to diagnose running is a waste of time. With a proper drawing I could guide you. You have multiple problems , a charging issue before boosting in reverse polarity, accepting the key was on , that 30 amp fuse did damage some where.
I think im ok. I hade to replace that 30 amp fuse. So it did its job and i believe it saved everything else. Ive got power and it startes. The flywheel magnets being broke off is whats causing my other issues
 

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buy it/ mod it/install it. End of flywheel issues. Order a flywheel puller as well, needed for removal.
 

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84' Goldwing Aspencade, 91' EX500, 98' Ninja 250/17' 300 engine, 07' EX500
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I have a 91, and I was lucky enough to catch it time. I went with a Gen 2 flywheel, and modified it per Fog's write-up.

It's a cheap one to do, providing you can find a Gen 2 flywheel cheap.

Otherwise you can order the one from overseas that a bolt on part, no modifications needed.

I found it in eBay, item# 203526190880
 

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84' Goldwing Aspencade, 91' EX500, 98' Ninja 250/17' 300 engine, 07' EX500
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So I glued the magnets back on flywheel for the time being
Looks like I'm buying a flywheel. Thanks fellas
M2¢
Not for nothing, I wouldn't do that, there just gonna come off again, and maybe this time it will cause engine damage.

Don't ride it, get the flywheel and be done with it. At least you'll have piece of mind knowing that it's not going to cause more problems, getting stuck, etc....
 

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M2¢
Not for nothing, I wouldn't do that, there just gonna come off again, and maybe this time it will cause engine damage.

Don't ride it, get the flywheel and be done with it. At least you'll have piece of mind knowing that it's not going to cause more problems, getting stuck, etc....
totally agree don't ride it like that. I only suggested gluing them back on as a stop gap measure so the engine could be started while troubleshooting any other issues in charging department. (that you need the engine running for) even if the ones re-glued are now sound it wouldn't stop any of the other ones dropping of at any time. a new flywheel of the enclosed type is your only option.
ok that's no 1 out of the way you need a new flywheel some have re-glued them using JB weld as a temporary measure but I wouldn't recommend it, you could do a fix if it's not too bad just to test out the systems while you obtain a new flywheel. pictures would help.
 
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So i got on the highway and everything,was good. About a mile down the road I could feel,it starting to bog. Another 1/4 and it was done. I had to jump it off before I left. And rode about 15 min. Well there was absolutly no charge on the battary when it died. So i got it to a gas station and put fuel in it(thought thats why it died) and got someone to jump it off for me. Well I hooked the cables up wrong.... It blew the fuse thats on the start solenoid. So i replaced thsy and put a good battary in it. It cranked right up but when i gave it throttle it would sputter and bog then it djed and completly drained the battary. Im guessing the stator has gone out on it but my buddy says a ground wire is off somewhere. He also said the bike will,not run if the staror is bad even of the battary has charge to it. I dont think he is correct bur can anyone clear this up and give me a little direction which way to,go. Thanks guys!
The sputtering is probably dirt in your jets. As for the battery. How old is it? Do you keep the bike outside in the winter with the battery hooked up? Don't buy a cheap battery. Go to batteries plus and get a good one. The starter solenoid getting replaced probably needed it anyway. You shouldn't really jump start a battery from a car. It's really easy to burn a cell. Take the carbs off one at a time and clean them with Gunk carb cleaner. Go to Walmart and buy a 20 dollar battery tender. That's how you should charge your battery
 

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The sputtering is probably dirt in your jets. As for the battery. How old is it? Do you keep the bike outside in the winter with the battery hooked up? Don't buy a cheap battery. Go to batteries plus and get a good one. The starter solenoid getting replaced probably needed it anyway. You shouldn't really jump start a battery from a car. It's really easy to burn a cell. Take the carbs off one at a time and clean them with Gunk carb cleaner. Go to Walmart and buy a 20 dollar battery tender. That's how you should charge your battery
hi guys, sorry about this I read the last post and was going to just let it go and move on But it contains some information that is not factual or is practically useless. so I have to interject on it.

1. you cannot take the carbs off one at a time. anyone with an EX knows that. they are joined on a rail and fastened together as one unit. you can only split them on the bench while doing a thorough carb cleaning job.

2. blowing carb cleaner through them is a waste of time, and effort it does nothing only make them look pretty, there is only one way to clean carbs, "Properly" full strip down clean and blow through all the small passageways ensuring all parts are spotless followed by precise test procedures to test they are working correctly.

3. just because the bike splutters doesn't mean it has to be "the carbs" in the OP's case this is important as he knows what issue he has (and so do we) "to elaborate" he lost some magnets off the rotor so the alternator doesn't push enough AC current output from the alternator this prevents the RR from converting enough of it to DC voltage to charge the battery, so in turn the bike is running on battery power virtually alone,
when the voltage in the battery drops through usage (running engine and running lights) to the threshold of 11v it can no long function and starts to misfire and splutter. once it drops below 10.5v (a few mins) it stops firing the plugs because the CDI shuts down and of course will not start.
the time taken to figure out what the hell is going on and do some checks. gives the battery time to recover some of it's residual power so it will now push start and run for a while until the residual power is used up. by now the battery is dead, and so is the bike.

4. all the wrong leads and blowing fuses is just a preventable red herring. the bike is dead. even if he had done everything right and got the bike to start using another power source it would only have lasted a few mins until the battery was flat again.

5. the fix is well known and documented, fix the flywheel (with a gen 2) then check the Alternator AC output if that's ok check the RR DC output if it's now charging, renew the battery (it's dead now anyway). check all fuses and connections see if it starts and runs well. it should but if not then and only then would it be required to check and clean the carbs.
 
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