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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys,

I bought a 1995 ex500 and it was claimed to be dropped and no longer will start. The engine cranks over and I have new sparkplugs and coils on it. I have grounded out the sparkplug and tested I have spark to both cylinders. Not a strong blue spark, but definitely a spark. I even double checked the gap on the new plugs to be correct. I tried spraying starter fluid in the carbs and it still wont start.

Today I took the carbs off the bike and took them apart. it was caked in crud and bad gas. I soaked these things in carb cleaner and they look super clean now. Installed them back onto the bike and still no luck when shooting in starter fluid.

Am I doing something wrong when shooting in the starter fluid? I noticed the butterfly throttle is on the engine side of these bikes. Or maybe could timing have gotten thrown off when the bike was dropped? Or perhaps its just a case of weak spark? I did get 2 fireballs to shoot out of the exhaust in all my testing and trials. That makes me think spark is fine but just not getting fuel?
 

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Sorry to hear of this. Have you rebuilt carbs before? These are simple carbs, but must be completely disassembled and very thoroughly cleaned. That means popping out the pilot screw covers (if any) and pulling the pilot needles out. Even more, it means removing the pilot jets which are down in a hole in the carb body. It usually takes a screwdriver with the blade ground narrow enough to fit in the bore. Once out, they need to be visually clear, as the orifice in them is only a few thousandths of an inch in diameter.

Done this?
 

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ok so the bike was dropped now won't start this would suggest some sort of damage occurred, but it also depends how long the bike was stood from when it was dropped to you trying to get it going.
suggest you check it all over even down down to things like a snapped woodruff key on the flywheel damage on wiring or battery, if it checks out do a full service and do the carbs properly as soaking in carb cleaner won't do it as @po18guy said they need a complete strip down all the internals cleaned new gaskets and O rings ensuring all the tiny passageways for air and fuel are clear and the float levels are spot on both carbs that there no air leaks and you have good fuel flow.
without all or most of this you will be struggling.
 

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New to you ? clean carbs (including hidden circuits), check valve clearances and cam timing while you're in there.
 

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fireballs? check the key in the flywheel (timing)

FOG
 

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1995 Ninja EX500
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry to hear of this. Have you rebuilt carbs before? These are simple carbs, but must be completely disassembled and very thoroughly cleaned. That means popping out the pilot screw covers (if any) and pulling the pilot needles out. Even more, it means removing the pilot jets which are down in a hole in the carb body. It usually takes a screwdriver with the blade ground narrow enough to fit in the bore. Once out, they need to be visually clear, as the orifice in them is only a few thousandths of an inch in diameter.

Done this?
Yes I've cleaned carbs before. I was trying to just get by for now with a quick spray down though and not fully taking the jets out yet. Sounds like that's what I may have to do though. I thought that the starter fluid would just pass through the carbs and into the cylinder and start the bike for a few seconds. Didn't think the carbs needed to be perfect for starter fluid to work.
 

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1995 Ninja EX500
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok so the bike was dropped now won't start this would suggest some sort of damage occurred, but it also depends how long the bike was stood from when it was dropped to you trying to get it going.
suggest you check it all over even down down to things like a snapped woodruff key on the flywheel damage on wiring or battery, if it checks out do a full service and do the carbs properly as soaking in carb cleaner won't do it as @po18guy said they need a complete strip down all the internals cleaned new gaskets and O rings ensuring all the tiny passageways for air and fuel are clear and the float levels are spot on both carbs that there no air leaks and you have good fuel flow.
without all or most of this you will be struggling.
Yes damage occurred. The left side is messed up. The handlebars got bent, the clutch level and cable torn off and didn't come with the bike, the clutch pedal even needed to be replaced. I agree it needs a full overhaul, but I was trying to see if the motor even ran before dumping in all that work into this bike. Was hoping to even get it started for a few seconds on the starter fluid first. Guess it looks like ill need to do the full strip down that I was trying to avoid. :cry:
 

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well I've never got starter fluid to work on this bike either, I think it's because the carbs are CVK so the only thing opening when you twist the throttle is the butterflies the slides remain closed shutting out the fluid.
perhaps there is a knack to it if someone knows please say, if there is I never found it.
 

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Did you check the flywheel key??

Fog
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well I've never got starter fluid to work on this bike either, I think it's because the carbs are CVK so the only thing opening when you twist the throttle is the butterflies the slides remain closed shutting out the fluid.
perhaps there is a knack to it if someone knows please say, if there is I never found it.
That's what I was thinking. When I turn the engine over I do see the needle pumping, but the starter fluid just doesn't
seem to work. Guess ill just have to rebuild the carbs and soak everything in the cleaner. petcock is stuck too, so ill soak that as well.
 

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Just remove the inspection plug in the left side cover then the flywheel retaing bolt (left hand). You can now see the key way in both the shaft and the flywheel. The two half’s of the key way must be precisely aligned or it will no go

Fog
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just remove the inspection plug in the left side cover then the flywheel retaing bolt (left hand). You can now see the key way in both the shaft and the flywheel. The two half’s of the key way must be precisely aligned or it will no go

Fog
Do you have a picture of what you're talkin about? Just did a quick google search and it seems like i need to remove the entire flywheel in order to see/replace the woodruff key. Would hate to do all that work if its not the problem.
 

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I just told you how to inspect the key without taking it apart
didn’t you read it
 

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Fog means remove the bolt (while the cover is in place) it's a left hand thread, look at the shaft once the bolt is removed you will see two cut outs one on the shaft and one on the flywheel, they must be in line (where the woodruff key fits) if the key is broke these two cut outs will not be in line.

if the bolt will not undo (it should) an alternative is to while the inspection plugs are out remove the sparkplug from the left cylinder insert something (that will not scratch the piston (like a pencil or drinking straw) turn the engine over (clockwise) feeling for the piston to be at TDC when it is look in the top inspection window there should be two marks visible inline with a notch on the case. a F and T if you cannot see any marks when the piston is at TDC the wood ruff key is broken.
 
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