[mikedrz1]

Hello all. I've been working at restoring my ninja that's been sitting for years. I took the carbs off and cleaned every nook and cranny and put in all new seals. I bench synced the throttle plates and got the carb back on the bike. It fires up and stays running, but I'm looking to fine tune the idle mix and sync carbs.

I'm doing this with the tank off, and just pouring fuel down the line. There is one vacuum hose that's supposed to go to the fuel tank. What do I do with that whilst not in use? If I cover it with my finger, the idle goes up. Should it be plugged like the one that's on the other carb?

Also should the bike stay running even if I turn the main idle setting all the way down? Should it be able to run on the idle mixture circuit a lone?

I'll also be syncing the carbs using a home made mano...whatever it's called meter.

Thanks in advance for any tips you folks may be able to give me. It's very exciting to hear this bike fire up again after soooo many years

 

[bpe]

Yes, that vacuum line should be plugged while not in use.

 

[ducatiman]

Yes, during any running/tuning attempt, the vacuum ports (both) must be plugged. Reset the idle to compensate. If left open, of course the resultant vac leak affects tuning, actually making accurate tuning impossible.

Using some sort of temporary fuel tank for testing purposes is advised. As I'm not a fan of homemade manometers....I'll withhold comment on that aspect, other than to suggest this (see pic) is your ultimate goal in synching. An older mercury type manometer pictured. Results precise.

AFA pilot screw settings....1 at a time, find best running, highest idle. May affect/need a resynch thereafter. Play with it to achieve best idle/off idle response.

Did you "wet test" the float system using clear tube method? Also v important doing carb work.

Consider examining the petcock innards as well.....they clog in similar manner as carbs.

 

[mikedrz1]

Yes, during any running/tuning attempt, the vacuum ports (both) must be plugged. Reset the idle to compensate. If left open, of course the resultant vac leak affects tuning, actually making accurate tuning impossible.

Using some sort of temporary fuel tank for testing purposes is advised. As I'm not a fan of homemade manometers....I'll withhold comment on that aspect, other than to suggest this (see pic) is your ultimate goal in synching. An older mercury type manometer pictured. Results precise.

AFA pilot screw settings....1 at a time, find best running, highest idle. May affect/need a resynch thereafter. Play with it to achieve best idle/off idle response.

Did you "wet test" the float system using clear tube method? Also v important doing carb work.

Consider examining the petcock innards as well.....they clog in similar manner as carbs.

View attachment 56443

Thank for the really good info! Yes, i changed the fuel petcock seals and rebuilt it a few years ago. The air filter also disintegrated and foam dust got all over the airbox. Took the whole thing apart and cleaned it out and replaced the filter. Also put in new plugs, oiled and checked all the cables.

I just made sure the float height was set to 17mm as per the manuel. Floats all seem to be behaving. I split the carbs and also changed the fuel inlet and overflow orings. Only issue i have now is with a cheap new fuel filter that leaks.

 

[ducatiman]

suggest the proven, alternative filter .... easy fuel filter ALTERNATIVE....YES!

uses stock length/routed fuel supply hose.

 

[mikedrz1]

suggest the proven, alternative filter .... easy fuel filter ALTERNATIVE....YES!

uses stock length/routed fuel supply hose.

Thanks ducatiman, I've heard of these rail filters. Was contemplating these. I went with the ezgo filters cuz theyre easier to access. I current have the big yellow paper filters. They are huge and bulky, and turned iut to be cheap and almost useless.