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Discussion Starter #1
well, i finally got my acewell speedo installed... freddyb sent me a wiring harness (much thanks!) and i finally got everything hooked up.

i took pics but i dont have em right now cuz im at work. for some reason my home internet has been on the fritz latley, but ill try to get some ASAP.

some notes:

- get zip ties. lots of them lol.

- the acewell needs a wire thats hot all the time, even with the key off, to keep the power on the clock. i ran a wire from the battery positive lead, along the inside of the frame, up to the front of the bike. tied it to the frame with zip ties.

- i tried to mount it where the handlebar riser screws onto the triple tree. once i did this, i found that it was basically unreadable. for some reason whatever, you cant see it very well if its mounted at more than a 45 degree angle :-\ i mounted it so its basically almost level with the triple tree, and again, used some zip ties to hold it on... i tried to bend the bracket, but i couldnt do it. it wouldnt be hard to make one, and thats probably what i'll end up doing... but for now, the zip ties work alright...

- the magnetic nut they give you to run the speedo isnt very good. it wouldnt mount on the rotor very well. the way its designed, is that the head of the nut has a magnet in it, then its smooth for about 1/2 an inch, then the threads start... well the problem is that even if you screw the nut all the way to the top, the rotor isnt that wide, and it can just slide up and down. the last thing i want, is for it to slide up and get jammed in my caliper...

so i put a washer on, and that helped the problem. but then i tried to tighten it... not even very hard at all, and the head of the nut snapped off ::) . so i ended up just sticking the magnet to the rotor. as i thought, that only worked for about 5 miles lol. im going to buy a small strong magnet, and get some of that gorilla glue or some **** and just glue it on there.

- the instructions are written in engrish (www.engrish.com) with some sort of chinese markings lol. not that hard to follow though.

- the tach bounces up and down. in the instructions it says something about if this happens, you need to install the included 1Mohm resistor. it was not included :(.
 

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I'm eager to see the picts.

Sorry to hear it's not as good as advertised :'(
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I'm not saying it isn't good, but it definetly has some kinks that need to be worked out... :)

Once I get it all sorted out I feel it should be gravy
 

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Can you take a pict of how you ended up mounting the magnetic pickup and the magnet ?

Do you know how thick is the head of the original bolt, I have a hard time figuring how it could be installed without hitting the caliper bracket.. ??? :-\

How did you fix the tach 'bounciness' ?

Anything else I should worry about if I end up going down that alley ?

Thanks
 

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great. another thing I have to get now. how much did that set you back?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
IIRC it is around 100 bucks for the unit plus shipping...

Frog said:
Can you take a pict of how you ended up mounting the magnetic pickup and the magnet ?
i will when i get home. ill try to describe it to you though.

i mounted the sensor on the front left fork, tied it on with zip ties.

the magnet, i put in one of the slots on the brake rotor, at the very bottom. i put some locktite on there so it doesnt come undone... thats probably one of my biggest fears right now, and i just try to not think about it at all... i dunno what would happen if it slid upwards when i was doing 65 on the highway, if the bolt would just break, or if it would totally lock the front wheel...

Do you know how thick is the head of the original bolt, I have a hard time figuring how it could be installed without hitting the caliper bracket.. ??? :-\
if you mount it at the very bottom of one of the slots, it wont hit. it takes a bit of work to get it in there though, and the nut is kinda tricky too. what i did was put it in higher, tighten the nut on a bit, and then moved it all the way down. i also had to use a washer on there, because the way the nut is designed, there is maybe a quarter inch of smooth metal between the head of the nut and the threads. problem is that the brake rotor isnt that thick, so even with the nut on, it didnt tighten against anything. once i got that washer on it was fine.

as for the thickness of the head of the nut, they give you two. one is a bit thicker than the other. the thinner one broke, and thats the one i lost.


How did you fix the tach 'bounciness' ?
i followed their instructions, and wrapped the tach wire around the plug wire. too bouncy. then i put in the suggested 1Mohm resistor. didnt help.

then i decided to just connect the tach wire on the gauge to the tach wire on the bike. VOILA! works like a charm. didnt need the resistor anymore either. if its still a bit bouncy, you could put the resistor back in.

i got the resistors at radio shack, 99 cents for 5 of them.

Anything else I should worry about if I end up going down that alley ?

Thanks
not that i can think of off the top of my head.

when i get home in a bit, ill take some pix and post them up.
 

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dragknee said:
then i decided to just connect the tach wire on the gauge to the tach wire on the bike. VOILA! works like a charm.
Thought about doing that but I was worried it could blow the electronics in there. Good to know it works ;D

Do you know how to acquire a replacement magnetic nut ?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
it came with two, so i just used the second one...

other than that, i googled rare earth magnets, and i think the first site is rare-earth-magnet.com or osmething like that

i was just going to order a small round one from them and stick it on the rotor with some gorilla glue or something like that
 

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Discussion Starter #11
here are some pix:

this is the nut, you can see where i put it in the rotor.


you need a clearance between the magnet and sensor of less than 9mm.


here is the sensor, held on by zip ties :)




oh yeah, one more problem i did remember, the LCD isnt visible if you have it at more than a 45 degree angle... the mounting bracket made it too high on my bike, i tried to bend it but i think that its made of adamantium, as i couldnt get a bend on it at all lol... so i stuck it on underneath the triple, and ran some zip ties through it to hold it.

from the top


underneath:


that one is kind of blurry... the round spot in the middle is the hole on the bracket... the two things going up or down out of the hole are zip ties...

if you cant see it, lmk, and ill draw it on there whats what :)
 

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Is it backlit or are you screwed if you try to ride at night?

BTW, you can easily get a 1 MOhm resistor at radio shack, fry's or the like. It'll probably cost you a quarter.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
they are 5 for 99 cents, i got mine at radio shack.

it is backlit when its turned on. its a nice blue color

 

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dragknee said:
here are some pix:

from the top


underneath:


that one is kind of blurry... the round spot in the middle is the hole on the bracket... the two things going up or down out of the hole are zip ties...
Looks nice, much nicer than the POS I'm using right now.

Just a quick bit of completely unrelated advice, should it help: If you're taking up-close pictures and your camera has a portrait mode (most often marked with a little flower symbol - the mountain symbol is for landscape (far away)) you can help the focus. Just throwing that out there in case that's why your pics are coming out blurry. If not, then sorry to bother :).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thanks for the advice. ill have to look into it. usually i just point and click and hope that it comes out ok :)
 

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Nice info you got there, thanks much :)
 

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Got another question for everyone here..

I'm worried about the magnetic bolt sliding out of place and jamming in the caliper assembly too so I'm wondering if it would be feasible to drill a hole in the wheel to put it in.

Here's what I mean, check the red dot :



=> So the plan would be to drill a hole there, stick the magnetic bolt in with the magnet sticking out on the other side of the wheel. Hold the bolt in place with 2 nuts (one on each side of the wheel) so we could get the magnet the closest to the sensor that would be mounted on the other fork.

Would this be a better plan ? Is drilling a small hole in the wheel doable ? Is it an even worst idea than having the bolt stuck in a slot where it can slide and jam the front wheel.. ???

I'm looking for your inputs here :)

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I can't see ur pic, I'm posting from my phone... ill look when I get home.

The bolt should go in the rotor imo, as it needs a clearance of less than 9mm from the sensor. I am concerned about it slipping too, but try not to think about it lol.

Also, I used a lock washer and some blue locktite and it hasn't budged so far.

You could get some jbweld or something like that and put it around the top of the bolt after you install it to basically make it part of the rotor.

Another idea is to ditch the magnetic bolts altogether and get a small rare earth magnet from that site (or ebay) and use some good glue to stick it to the rotor. Then worst case scenario, if it comes off it just falls to the street and gets stuck to the underside of some cage. I think those magnets come in packs of 5 or 10 and they aren't too expensive. Maybe a buck or two a piece.
 

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On one hand I don't think you'd have any problems if you drilled a small hole and went that route. On the other hand, metal breaks at it's weakest point, so with the ever present but excessively minimal chance that your wheel were to form stress cracks or the like, they'd start at that hole. It'd probably never happen in reality, but I'd try the other methods first. I like the idea of gluing on the rare earth magnet, myself.

There's also the idea of drilling and adding a bolt could mess with the balance of the wheel, but it shouldn't be so much that it couldn't be corrected.
 

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My penny's worth...

Glue seems better than the hole.

A hole between the thicker "web pattern" lines might be better that through them.
Don't leave any sharp edges on the hole... round them nice & smooth.

Obviously, I'm no engineer... so. Get out a grain of salt...
 
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