On the left side of the bike, under the carburetor, is a black knob. That's the idle speed adjustment. Turn it a little at a time until the rpm is about 1200.

 

You may have a possible air leak at the intake carb boots, I would check that first. You can idle the bike, and spray a little carb cleaner at the area where the boots connect to the carbs. If the idle goes up, then they are leaking.

Edit: This is if the idle keeps increasing as the engine gets hotter.

 

i adjusted the idle speed and it worked but i heard you would have to jet the carbs or do they come factory like that

 

Mix screws. Factory is set lean and you’ve added more lean to it... IE: you could run risk of overheating and engine damage.
You added a free flow exhaust so you need to richen it.
NO jetting. Don’t EVER jet it. Just use the mix screws and richen.
Go to the Wiki and find TASK 9.1
My instructions for dialing in the mix.

O_E_M

 

ok im new to motorcycle forums are you talking about wikipedia? i checked out fogs air mod which it turns out i also bought k&n air pods but according to fogs thread he drilled a hole and made it run richer cause there wasnt much vacuum so i thought if install pods this would also work correct me if im wrong when i let it run at idle exhaust started turning blue only at motor but when cooled down it was a bronze color i cant eliminate the air box but i can install those air pods in them would this work

 

i want to put on air pods and according to fogs air mod there is vacuum on air box thats why he drilled a hole into so there wouldnt be as much vacuum so if i eliminate the air box that would technically fix my problem but then i run into another which is the valve assembly air switch that is connected in the front of the airbox and connected to the valve cover . on a car i would call this a pcv positive crankcase ventilation im wondering if i can just let it hang in place or if i have to have it at all

 

Hold on a second. It's more complex than you think.
1) The extra hole in the unfiltered side of the airbox is meant to lean the mixture.
2) Removing the airbox in favor of pods does not accomplish the same thing as the FOG mod. They're not even in the same universe, because...
3) The carburetors have vacuum controlled slides that work as a system with the airbox. There is a certain, stable vacuum in the airbox that serves as a reference. It also has an effect on how much fuel gets pushed through the jets. Drilling an extra hole tweaks things a tiny bit, but removing the airbox completely will make the carburetors not function properly.

Now, as to retaining the airbox and putting pods inside it, you can connect one or the other but not both. If it could find a way to mount them, would it work? Maybe, maybe not, but there's no reason whatsoever to do it. I would just put an ex500 Uni filter in there

Now, your last question. What you're referring to is the PAIR valve. It injects air into the exhaust under certain conditions, to ignite unburned fuel. It's an emissions device and can be removed without affecting engine operation. The hole in the air box and the air inlets and the vacuum hose all need to be plugged. There are various ways to do it.

 

ok so then if i cant do that i need to order a filter but i still need to get the carbs to run richer it backfires bad while decelerating i was told and read that its running lean when that happens so is there a cheap way to fix this

 

The backfire is mostly cause by fresh air pumped into the exhaust by the Pair system. the valve on top of the engine remove it and plug all the openings and the back firs will cease. no mixture changes necessary.

FOG

 

ok i attached two png hope they work the pair valve you guys are talking about i think is the wrong thing so maybe i didnt explain it right part #16126 in pic 0ne and shows you what it is in pic 2 according to bike bandit oem website. I use this if i dont know what the part is called and i think i ruined my carb i drilled out pilot mixture i turned out to 21/2 turns on both and the right one is burning red hot within a couple of seconds so i think i should of left the stock exhaust on i didnt have any problems out of it then lol now i cant ride i have air pods on to k&n. the air box is still in just without the front cover on

 

OP

No, I meant the Wiki, here, on this site.

But if you have one header beging to burn red within a few seconds or even minutes (or basically at all) of starting the engine then you are running WAY TOO LEAN!

The PAIR (Passive Air Injection Reburn) system is nothing. Two hoses on valve cover conneceted to a big silver-ish valve then one hose directly to the airbox. With a small vacuum hose from silver-ish valve over the right side carburetor.
Every bit of this can be removed and discarded. Then a vacuum cap installed on the right carb nipple and a plug installed in the hole in the top of the airbox.
This has NO effect on the engine. It’s merely emissions related and not exactly effective. It’s not an EGR either. This bike doesn’t have EGR.

Hopefully you didn’t drill out the carbs and attempt jetting no need on this bike.
Pods filters, nope. They don’t work well here either because these are CV carbs. Constant Velocity. That airbox is needed. Just a simple K&N factory style replacement is sufficiant.

CAN pods and jets and massive exhaust cans be made to work on this bike?
Sure. Is it recommended? Not in the least.
Because it’s usually WAY beyond the scope of the everage rider/owner of these bikes.
This is not meant as an offense to you. It’s just that... just because a company makes a part for a bike does not mean it’s going to make you faster. And in most cases it actually slows you down and reduces horsepower.
It takes a fair amount of tuning and frankly, experience, to jet and have this machine work better than just using minor tweaks to the stock set up.
Basically put, a jet kit on the EX is not a “bolt on go fast goody”.
There aren’t really any of those for this.

The engine was hot rodded from the factory. It’s been stroked and bored.
The EPA required it be detuned a bit to comply and be sold in the US.
That came in the form of a restriction in the airbox and an idle mix set lean.

Factory US settings, at idle the bike is lean. At wide open it was actually a tad rich... because EPA didn’t measure emissions at WOT (wide open throttle).
The airbox mod (FOG was first to document it but when I bought mine new in 2005 it was one of the first things I did, however, this place wasn’t here, I didn’t even have the Internet. It was just what knowing to look for and expect from experience) resolves these issues.
The airbox mod (aka FOG mod) puts a few holes on the back side of the left side airbox cover. One hole 1” in area basically... OR SMALLER holes that total 1” in area. Remember Pie are square?
Pi times Radius squared.
Then you add either a K&N or Uni stock replacement filter.
THEN you’d adjust your mix screws on the carbs.
Those holes lean down the mix at WOT and a mix tuning richenes it at and slightly off idle.

US factory settings were generally at 1.75 turns out and those screws were covered by brass plugs to keep you from mesing with the mix. Thanks again EPA...! US bikes were only ones to have those plugs.
Federal law actually requires you to reinstall them if you ever rebuild the carbs.... BTW, no one ever does.

Most manuals say to bump the mix out to 2 turn for the US. But they assume no mods.
Of course your altitude affects this. Above 5k feet and 2.25 turns according to manual specs but this again doesn’t assume mods to airbox and filter mods.
However, you’re best to go to 2.5 turns out after the airbox mod.
This ensures you are NOT going to be lean from the extra air.

That’ll at least keep you from burning up your engine and making the headers glow red at idle. Tuning the mix will get you the best performance but it does not in any way, shape, or form involve changing jets, drilling slides, or installing pod filters.
There’s more if info you need it... it takes a while to type what I did.

O_E_M

 

Part #16126 is the pair valve.

 

The first time I took off the tank I had that junk laying on the floor in about a minute.
I had just got the Pair Removal kit in the mail. I bet Kawasaki hated this stuff, being forced to add systems to their bikes that degrade the running or durability of the bike. The pipes on these bikes crystallize early because of the white hot flame fed by those tubes and valve.
Yamaha had a similar system on the old Roadstar. I bought two special brass plugs to cork off the passages then pitched the valve, lines, brackets and all. My pipes looked like new for 13 years.

 

The first time I took off the tank I had that junk laying on the floor in about a minute.
I had just got the Pair Removal kit in the mail.
Yamaha had a similar system on the old Roadstar..

Didn’t get it (kit) from me.

Roadstar is “old”..?... let’s go older and talk Virago. Haha

O_E_M

 

sorry so long ok i i found out you cant put individual pods on so i put stock airbox back on and k&n air filter the bike was sputtering around 6 to 7 thousand at quarter throttle so i got a dyno jet kit thinking this would solve the problem it didnt lol so i put jet main jet 126 in still have stock also cleaned carbs it needed it but i still get somewhat of a sputter


what do you think

 

Pods and the CV carbs on this bike along with jet kits don't play well together. As you've found out and there's a reason for it... it's like a broken record but here goes...
The bike from the factory is hot-rodded. Jet kits don't do a thing for it but over fuel the engine which at WOT was already rich. At idle to pass the EPA emmisions crap it was set lean.

Best advice I can give is to retain the stock main and pilot jets, stock jet needles and needle jets.... STOCK.
Keep the stock air box but on the back edge of left side cover drill a 1" hole and use a K&N drop in replacement filter.
This is commonally known as a "FOG mod". He didn't pioneer it but it is associated to him.

Assuming your carbs are synched... and since the Wiki is apparently still down you won't be able to read my mixture dial in so here's a short list on what to do to dial the mix in...
1: Know where to find the mix screws. Bottom of carb body, front edge of fuel bowl. As a baseline they should be at 2.5 turns out (counter clockwise) from a gentle seating. You'll need a small flat head screwdriver short enough to fit between bottom of carb and engine.
2:Engine warmed to operating temp.
3: Turn idle screw up (big black knob between carbs) so engine is to 3k RPM.
4: Start with left side carb. And SLOWLY turn the mix screw in at 1/8 turn intervals until the engine stumbles. Then back it out in 1/8 turn intervals until the engine stumbles. This needs to be done SLOWLY so the engine can react to the changes. Now you need to turn the screw back in and listen for the engine idle to pick up. You want the highest idle between those two stumble points.
5: Move over to the right side carb and repeat step 4.
Again, looking for peak idle.... go back and check left side.
6: If satisfied that it's a peak idle give each screw a 1/8 turn out and call it a day.

It sounds way harder than it is and honestly, if you have your screwdriver ready, know where it needs to go, and you can listen/pick up on the subtle idle speed change... it literally takes longer for the bike to come up to operating temp than it does to dial in the mix.
Remember the bike HAS to be up to normal operating temp BEFORE you go adjusting the mix.

And... remember/know that the power band of this engine kicks in about 7k... it's smooth steady pull up to 7k and BAM.... it zooms pretty quick up to the 11k red. Just how it is.

Make sure the tank is clean, you don't have any vacuum leaks, etc etc.
Ya know... all that standard prelim stuff.

O_E_M

ETA: After you're done with mix adjustment don't forget to turn the black idle knob back down so the engine is at 1150-1250 RPM