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Discussion Starter #1
2008 EX500, 15k miles.........sat up in storage for a few years (from what I was told). No knowledge of prior maint, but cosmetics are a solid 10......almost MINT. I performed the usual changing oil (Rotella T6), filter, air filter, brake fluids, etc, etc........Ductaiman1 rebuilt the carbs to like-new status (of course). Bikes starts up good, idles good.

Clutch........good pressure on the lever. But I believe the disc/plates are "froze" together (is that what they call "glazed together"??). I have to coast the bike down the drive (engine running in Neutral), snick it into First.......it starts taking off. I have to hold the clutch lever "in" while "goosing" the throttle up and down while in first, the bike lunging forward each time........after about 5 times, the clutch "let's go" and starts acting normal. It seems the hotter the engine gets, the better the clutch behaves......but there is still a "delay" in clutch action when riding: coasting in gear down a hill, pull in the clutch lever, it takes a second or two to engage, not instantly.
I have to go thru the procedure of the "frozen plates" (stuck plates) each time I attempt to ride it....coast down drive, snick in gear, pull clutch in while revving the throttle, it will pop loose after a few attempts. I've accepted the fact it probably needs new Disc's and Plates.....about $160 without a new cover gasket (another $25). With only 15k miles, i would think the clutch was NOT burned up........so, looking for opinions if I should just new Disc's.........or Disc's + Plates??

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I usually plan to replace the friction discs and the springs, re-use the steel plates,
but you can disassemble and take a look, then decide what to order.
 

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If it were me I'd pull the clutch basket and examine the fibers and the steels. It's an easy job. If you are careful you get lucky and not destroy the gasket. It's a relatively easy job to get at the clutch basket.

I had similar issues on my KDX200 after long periods of non-use. However, I found an oil change worked wonders, and it would also go away quickly after the first change into 1st. Your persistent problems indicate further investigation is necessary.
 

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you probably need to do the front wheel against the wall trick to free the sticking plates and get the oil in there. I have to do this every spring on the gen2 cruiser. it has ZX600 springs that are much stronger and tends to squeeze out the oil between the plates. it's the only way I can free the clutch on first start up after winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys.........good idea Yorkie, but I should have to not do this procedure everytime I want to ride the bike. I have started the bike every week for 3 weeks now, and it always starts out stuck. I guess I could try a different oil (Mobil 1....non energy conserving......no oil war here, ha ha). Not afraid of changing the plates, have done it on a few bikes in the past. I was trying to avoid spending $160 if I did not need to. Guess I'll put the existing clutch parts and see how they look, then order parts if needed........probably a 2 week duration, not bad I guess as nice riding weather is still sporatic here in Bama.
 

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yeah you probably have an issue going on in there. perhaps a warped plate or it's not opening wide enough.
I only have to do it once after a 5month lay up after that it's fine even if it's stood a couple of weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Odds are nothing needs to be replaced on the clutch. These clutches are pretty bullet proof. It's not that uncommon at all to get some good plate sticking on a low mileage engine like yours. Will probably disappear on it's own in another 10-15,000 miles. Or you can do as @yorkie described above.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK, opened up the clutch cover.......and jumped back in "fright". The pics show you what I mean.........a white, gooey substance on the inside ribs of the cover, and I assume all in the clutch itself. I hope....I hope.........it is not burning water at the head somewhere. There is no tell-tale smoke, and the bike runs great. I just drained the oil......no water to be seen, not sure it would show anyway?? Oil color was a tad darker than I expected.......it only has probably 10-15 miles on this oil / filter change (Rotella T6). History on the Bike: not known, except it was put in storage by an older man and stayed there a few years (??), then given to his nephew last year.....who never tried to do anything with it (probably a good thing). I had a suspicion that maybe some gas had drained down into the crankcase, so the first thing I did (when I brought it home), was drain the oil. Then pulled the carbs, Dr.Ducatiman rebuilt them, I re-installed them, filled the engine with a cheaper grade oil to flush any possible remaining gas out, started the bike, ran it for probably 5-10 minutes most. Then drained and put in the good stuff (T6). Temp gauge has always shown "normal". Will pull the disc's and plates next.......probably toss the disc's in the trash, and order some new replacement parts (including the gasket......dammit, it tore.....$25). QUESTION: any harm in filling with oil after I reinstall the cover, and cranking the engine without plates/disc's/hub installed.......again, just to flush any possible "resi-goo" from the inside cases, while I wait on parts to arrive???
[I'll let you know what the disc's + plates look like with pics once I pull them]

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Don’t bother with new clutch. Never saw a bad one. All you have is a little condensation. The oil in the clutch area never get high enough to rinse it off . Put it back together a go back to the game.

FOG
 
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Calls for the old Italian tune up.
 

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Zoom zoom baby!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, here is the first plate to come out (after the first disc)..........it almost appears to be a disc in the pic. I'm thinking it should have a shiney metal finish?? I am scrubbing each disc with oil and a tootbrush to remove any "Goo"......none seen on the first disc. This plate.......OK to use a Scotch Pad and oil on it?? (try and clean it off)

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the fiber discs are fine .clean the metal ones if you must . all that thing needed is to be burt clean. to or there race starts or bump it agains a wall and stall the engine from 6 thou with the clutch.
if it slips then you need ned (better springs)

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #17
the fiber discs are fine .clean the metal ones if you must . all that thing needed is to be burt clean. to or there race starts or bump it agains a wall and stall the engine from 6 thou with the clutch.
if it slips then you need ned (better springs)
FOG
Thanks FOG.........gonna clean the plates some, wipe down everything inside the clutch cavity, re-install, new oil and give her a try.........stay tuned.
mark444
 

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Discussion Starter #18
UPDATE: I scrubbed the dirty plates with a Scotch Brite Pad + motor oil.........took alot of rubbing to get that brown "smegma" off the plates. Put it back together, new oil.........clutch works "good as new" again. Thanks for the help, guys!!!!
 
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Thanks for the update.(y)

All too often OP's come up with the fix to correct what ever problem the thread is about, and then fail to chime in with the final post to tell us what that is.

Nice work.
 
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