i looked into them b4 i got my tires mounted i asked about them at the local bike shop and they looked at me like i was from outer space....lol

one thing i did notice is i got a price for them off the net and they were not very cheep but if they work as good as u say they do then i guess it is worth the money

 

I don't know about those beads. I heard of them, too. Just find it a little hard to believe as they claim.

But the main reason is you don't really need more than a couple of jackstands or equivelent and a 1/2" to 3/4" CF straight rod to balance your own. Rod through the center and the wheel will roll to the heavy spot. Trial and error with some stick-on weights and you've got it.

And no, you don't even need a cone to center the wheel on the rod. The wheel hanging on the bearings is its own center, even with the rod not centered because it is not attached but rolling freely around the center that is the bearing. This is often not easily understood but if you study it or just play with one you'll see it.

The purpose built stands with bearings for free rod rotation are nice but some careful trial and error on jack stands around the heavy spot will work OK. Never had a balance problem at any speed with this method. Also, the deadweight method is the most common used at the race track. The stands with bearings but not necessarily with centering tapered cones, just the rod loosely through the bearing. In fact, Dunlop's factory mounting trailer at the AMA races uses this method.

 

i have never thought of using them in bike tires...i have used them in off road tires plenty of times...and they work in those big things really well....semi's use them too...

might just have to try them out.

 

Statisc and dynamic baloancing only works for part of your tire life. I checked my tak offs from my FJR before I removed them (statically like the above described method). They were way off. These were factory balanced when I got the bike. Tread wear was patchy and uneven. These beads continoulsyl rebalance your time. Nothing but rave reviews yet. Will get them in this weekend. Tires of getting funny vibes half way thru a tires life, Not talking about tread wear vibes, I am talking about the tire being unbalanced after is has some highway use.

 

I can balance my tires new and used and they come out right each time. I use the Bridgestone BT45's on my bike. They have balance marks on the tires that indicate the "lightest" part of the tire. I align the "lighest" part of the tire with the "heaviest" part of the wheel. Doing this helps with the finaly balancing of the tire and also vibration. I generally have to use 1/2 of a 1/4 ounce weight to get the proper balance.

 

I use the dots alos. But even the dynamic scales only get you donw to .25 ounces. These beads seem to be the ticket. i will post more on them later.

 

Who's using DynaBeads? - www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=330675[/color]

 

So I read this thread and decided, "why not."
My tires had over 6,000 miles on them and they were probably due for a balance.

Today, about a week after placing the order, UPS delivered the package of Dynabeads, so I immediately installed them - timing, weather, etc. was perfect.

First I took the bike out for a short ride to get a baseline feeling.
I then came back home and removed the lead balance weights.
I took the bike out for the same three mile loop ride consisting of half surface street and half freeway.
I thought it curious that I didn't feel any discernible difference with the weights removed.
I then installed the Dynabeads.

It's a very easy procedure - about 15 minutes per tire for deflation, installation, inflation.

1) Deflate tire.
2) Remove valve core.
3) Pour packet of beads into supplied plastic bottle, (One ounce for front tire, two ounces for rear. They even give you separate one and two ounce baggies), cut tapered nozzle/cap, screw plastic tube onto valve, connect bottle to plastic tube . . . slowly pour.

Pouring beads a little too fast. Man, there are thousands of those little suckers!

I purposefully caused a clog by pouring too fast, even though the instructions gave warning. Tap the valve stem with your finger and the clog disappears.

I then took the bike for a third loop ride. I was pleasantly surprised, the ride was noticeably much smoother than the first two rides.

THIS PRODUCT ACTUALLY WORKS AS ADVERTISED!!!!! Hey Mikey!

Too bad the stuff doesn't work in car tires.

 

It does work in car tires??? Goes for trucks, cars.

I have been using these for awhile now. Cnat feel any difference at low speeds. But at high speeds its glass smooth. I love em.

 

I'm using them in the front and rear of my EX500 and the front of my T595 Daytona. I've been very happy with them on the Daytona. However, the EX still doesn't feel 100%, but it could be the fact that I have Metzeler's on the Daytona and Kenda's on the EX.

 

It does work in car tires??? Goes for trucks, cars.

I stand corrected . . . I think.

From their website:

Why don't you have a chart for regular passenger cars?

We don't market to cars and SUV's due to the high performance style of those tires, which are low and wide. These types of tires commonly exhibit varying degrees of lateral imbalance due primarily to the width. This type of inbalance can only be corrected with carefully placed wheel weights. So that means that while Dyna Beads should not be used as the sole balancing method for these tire types, they can be used as a supplemental method designed to smooth out the ride and provide little or no future rebalancing.

http://www.innovativebalancing.com/news.htm

So it looks like it can work in car tires, but they don't guarantee it.

 

This is the first I've heard of these, are these meant to completely do away with regular weights to balance tires? I'm very intrigued.

What is the difference before and after? I feel like my bike rides pretty smooth...no wobble or bumpiness. Or is it something else it corrects?

 

No more wheel weight required, Tires constantly rebalance themselves to true balance. Tire wear seems way less even so far. Might actually break 10K miles on a set of tires. No negatives to these. I am very pleased with mine, Got them from innovative balancing.

 

This is the first I've heard of these, are these meant to completely do away with regular weights to balance tires? I'm very intrigued.

What is the difference before and after? I feel like my bike rides pretty smooth...no wobble or bumpiness. Or is it something else it corrects?

On motorcycles they instruct you to remove the weights.

As I stated in the above post; I rode the bike with the weights, then with the weights removed, and a third time after installing the Dynabeads. The third ride was definitely the smoothest.

They cost me $20.80 delivered.
http://www.innovativebalancing.com/

P.S. Ooh, and I had to go to an auto parts store to purchase a valve stem remover. Less than $2.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eq263AYgyYg&feature=related

 

Thats an awesome demonstration. It sounds like these are worth the 20 bucks.

 

better than the $40 bucks or so the local stealership overcharges you to balance them, And we all know you only get half hearted work from them and it usually isnt right anyhow. Get a no mar bar and make a cheap bead breaker ( out of 2x4s) and you no longer have to pay the stealership for mounting and balancing your tires.

 

I think I will give these a try. I'm putting on a next set of Pilot Powers now (got 8300mi out of the last rear, not bad for a soft compound tire). They don't mark a light spot on the Michelin's because apparently the tire is balanced. Didn't need any weights on the front but the rear wheel consistently comes up as the valve stem is the heavy spot. Since that is a wheel issue and won't change with wear (last tire was the same) I'm thinking of leaving the balance weight on to counter balance the valve stem and adding the dynabeads when I get them. I know that is not per dynabeads instructions, but is there a downside to doing it this way?

 

Dont understand why you would use weights to counter act weights? Remove the balance weights and add the beads. Just that simple, Dont try to overthink this.

 

Understood, but why leave your wheel unbalanced when it's so easy to correct? Then the beads are freed up to be balancing the tire as it wears. Can it hurt anything?

 

Dont see the point in it. When we balance a rotor head of an iarcrat, We only use so much weight, If we exceed that , we pull them off and start over. We dont use weights on all 4 points becasue then thats counter productive. As add wheel weights and dyna beads.

 

Understood, but why leave your wheel unbalanced when it's so easy to correct? Then the beads are freed up to be balancing the tire as it wears. Can it hurt anything?

I don't know the answer, but do they NOT take into account the weight of the valve when manufacturing wheels? Seems it would be a no-brainer to manufacture wheels to be balanced when a valve is installed.

 

I've been using the beads for nearly two years now. They do work on an unbalanced tire to a point but thats only if the amount of bead wieght equals or excedes the amout of off balance. The closer the balance BEFORE the beads go in, the better they work.

 

my rear tire requires 2 ounces, If the tire needs more then that to correct it balance, Its goin in the trash. Buy a tire from a good manufacturer and you will be surprised how close they are. My friend rides 35K a year, been rinning only dynabeads for the last couple years. No negatives with then to report. LD riders use them so they can mount and balance their own tires on the road. They dont use weights at all. Just the beads.

 

I've been using the beads for nearly two years now. They do work on an unbalanced tire to a point but thats only if the amount of bead wieght equals or excedes the amout of off balance. The closer the balance BEFORE the beads go in, the better they work.

This is what makes me think, let the weights on to get the balance close, and use the beads for fine tuning.