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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tried to take my 06 ex500 out for it's first ride and my battery died about 5 miles down the road. I was able to identify the stator being the problem so I hauled it back home. Couple days later I try to jump the starter solenoid and it cranks but no start then when I remove the screwdriver it continues cranking until the battery loses all power again. So I tried to replace the stator and the starter solenoid today and now have no power at. Tried reversing the wires on the solenoid and it just blew a fuse. Battery is probably shot at this point but has enough voltage to power everything.
 

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Moderating: Fair & Just
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No power at all, as in no lights or anything?
Or is it just the starter motor that's not turning over?
 

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Have you checked and replaced all blown fuses?
 

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Moderating: Fair & Just
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Make sure your battery is charged up. All the connections are clean, tight, and right.

I would be surprised if your starter motor wasn't burned out. But not seeing why that would affect the lights.

Other members should chime in later with ideas.
 

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Tried to take my 06 ex500 out for it's first ride and my battery died about 5 miles down the road. I was able to identify the stator being the problem so I hauled it back home. Couple days later I try to jump the starter solenoid and it cranks but no start then when I remove the screwdriver it continues cranking until the battery loses all power again. So I tried to replace the stator and the starter solenoid today and now have no power at. Tried reversing the wires on the solenoid and it just blew a fuse. Battery is probably shot at this point but has enough voltage to power everything.
Hi. first lets get a few things out of the way, the thread title is completely misleading, this scenario is impossible on this bike the electrical system is divided into 3 parts each one only connects to it's own part there is no interconnection between them except at the final end/start point "the battery".
so the stator cannot power the starter motor or even run the engine if the battery is low. never mind keep it running on it's own.
Second, you say you was able to identify the stator as the problem "how" what tests did you do or what evidence brought you to that conclusion. you don't say.
third, the solenoid is nothing more than a high current electromagnetic switch unless it is mechanically broken or wired incorrectly it cannot operate on it's own,

so to the problem one assumes (although one cannot assume anything) is that the bike started and ran fine before you set off, "meaning the issues you have previously were fixed" it ran 5 miles then stopped.
this means the bike was running ONLY on battery power, when the power level dropped to 10.5v and no longer able to provide a spark it stopped running.
after that the rest is just conjecture, you need to start back to point A. with a good 100% reliable battery. charge it up have it drop tested, if it's not 100% buy a new one.
then go back to basics and test each part one at a time. in a methodical order.
1. battery.
2. starter motor.
3. starter solenoid.
4. relays and fuses.
5. wiring (once you have it turning over on the button)
6 charging system. (stator output and RR) can only be done once the bike starts and runs.
7. the rest of the electrical system (lights ignition ECT)

my best guess at this point is you have major electrical issues (not yet sorted) but cannot progress further until each system is working correctly, it takes time and effort to do it properly there are no shortcuts that will work reliably.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I did a continuity test on the stator and found an open. The starter solenoid had a mechanical failure inside causing a short. I also determined the stator to be bad simply from as you said it running on battery power until it died. I've tested your first 4 items a number of times but have absolutely no power
 

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Well I am going to wait and see what @bpe responds to my request in OneFora. I have numerous posts about Kawasaki Versys , series regulator, shunt--
So far the Ninja 650 prior to 2015 , KLR650, X300, V650 all years, have exactly the same method of wiring. I have developed a standard for testing stators, for adapting the Polaris series regulators and compu fire series regulator.
 

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I did a continuity test on the stator and found an open. The starter solenoid had a mechanical failure inside causing a short. I also determined the stator to be bad simply from as you said it running on battery power until it died. I've tested your first 4 items a number of times but have absolutely no power
Well, first thank you for correcting a few things, one you mentioned the starter continuing to run after removing the screwdriver- yes the contacts were fused. What wires did you reverse at the start solenoid?
You went to the trouble of removing the stator-I am familiar with KLR 650, Versys 650, V1000, X300, Ninja 650 up to and including 2014.
A electrical drawing or pdf copy would be handy but not necessary.

So let us start with a couple things that can solve this first time around. I do need to know what wires you witched around at the start solenoid. All the above motorcycles I listed have a start relay and a start solenoid.
First test is I want a fully charged battery, make sure you don't have any blown fuses, if the X500 is like all the other Kawasaki's , there is a connector at the start solenoid, pull it, I don't care about any fuses blown-not needed. I need you to have the battery fully charged, connect a meter measuring volts DC to the battery, short out the start solenoid, and run the starter for 5 seconds, wait a minute do it again, do this three times and post the voltages. If the battery is good it should be around 11.0 VDC
Pst your results and I will get back to you. The next area would be the 3 phase connector and the regulator connector-visual of the connections, if possible post a couple close ups of your failed stor front and back.Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I had an issue with a previous starter solenoid and I switched both the 12v wires one going to the battery and one going to the starter and it solved the same issue before but when I did it on this solenoid it blew the 30 amp fuse instantly
 

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I had an issue with a previous starter solenoid and I switched both the 12v wires one going to the battery and one going to the starter and it solved the same issue before but when I did it on this solenoid it blew the 30 amp fuse instantly
Are you talking the heavy wires or control wires?

You may have a VERY expensive repair now. Have a close look at the start solenoid, the one from the battery has a common connection to the control side of the relay-a jumper-You may have damaged the ECU, relay box, MANY things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Also just performed your test battery had 11.3V after jumping the solenoid for over 5 seconds
 

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I am going to need to look at a drawing and get back to you.
 

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OK your battery is in good shape. I have used a battery tester meant for automotive, I will assume your starter is similar to a KLR, or Versys-they draw approximately 50 to 60 amp, measured using a hall effect amp probe. Many guys have electrical problems related to a bad battery, ost members tell them to take it and get it tested, I got tired of idiots posting electrical help when they were unqualified. You have a perfectly good tester built right in-the starter motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
OK your battery is in good shape. I have used a battery tester meant for automotive, I will assume your starter is similar to a KLR, or Versys-they draw approximately 50 to 60 amp, measured using a hall effect amp probe. Many guys have electrical problems related to a bad battery, ost members tell them to take it and get it tested, I got tired of idiots posting electrical help when they were unqualified. You have a perfectly good tester built right in-the starter motor.
I'm glad that's the case but still isn't solving my problem of no power past the solenoid
 

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Does your relay look like this
Passive circuit component Circuit component Electronic component Computer hardware Hardware programmer
 
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