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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
The headlight relay is working I have my low and high beams turn signals work everything seems to be good except for the solenoid. I really appreciate the help.
 

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I have a question. I still don't know what year this is. But the drawing I looked at shows the stator wire going to the junction box, normally the lights come on only after the bike is running. Secondly , pushing the start button turns the lights off.
I need to resolve this first.

Has it been possible to have the headlights on right from when you got the bike, not running, just keying on.
 

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^ The bike is an '06.
 

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I have a question. I still don't know what year this is. But the drawing I looked at shows the stator wire going to the junction box, normally the lights come on only after the bike is running. Secondly , pushing the start button turns the lights off.
I need to resolve this first.
all EX500 (north american) "D" models (94 on) have the same wiring. the bike is a 06 the stator wire (AC) goes to the junction box and then through a set of diodes to turn it into DC this powers the headlight relay to turn the headlights on,
so when the engine is stood there is no power to switch on the headlight.
 

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all EX500 (north american) "D" models (94 on) have the same wiring. the bike is a 06 the stator wire (AC) goes to the junction box and then through a set of diodes to turn it into DC this powers the headlight relay to turn the headlights on,
so when the engine is stood there is no power to switch on the headlight.
Yes , almost all Kawasaki are wired this way. I am waiting for a reply from this guy- the headlight relay should not energize with a key on, which is what he said. I suspect several diode failures that, or the headlight relay is fused, which does happen. I have a cheap $5 40 amp relay work around for this problem on the versys, and imagine it would work here.
 

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here goes-I asked to unplug the connector at the start solenoid-key on and tell me if the headlights work-if they do the headlight relay is toast-or you have some screwed up wiring. When you ask why it won't start-I work backwards-since I can't be there, I need to prove circuits. Like the start solenoid cannot turn over by itself unless it is shorted, the same goes for the headlight relay, they don't just come on. Also I wonder if he disconnected the 3 phase plug and regulator plug before trying this.
Font Rectangle Material property Schematic Parallel


Font Rectangle Parallel Pattern Diagram
 

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Already saw it, I wear trifocals, not much good. Same as the KLR, I need a blow up as what is referred to as the Junction Box This is what a Versys and X300 look like View attachment 55584
Junction Box Circuit

Font Material property Parallel Schematic Engineering

A. Accessory Fuse 10A
B. Fan Fuse 10A
C. Turn Signal Fuse 10A
D. Horn Fuse 10A
E. Ignition Fuse 10A
F. Headlight Fuse 10A
G. Headlight Relay
H. Headlight Diodes
I. Starter Diode
J. Starter Circuit Relay
K. Interlock Diodes
L. Taillight Fuse 10A


One of my favorite aspects about the EX is, it doesn't have a lot of frills like on board computers or fuel pumps.
But then it seems like something always does
 

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So I assume that the headlight relay is a problem--moving on
Recap here; The only way pushing the start button and no starter turning over the motor= KILL Switch was operated; neutral switch isn't making even though it is in neutral; side stand is down and with a bad neutral switch it is being inhibited to start. We know there was a problem with the start solenoid. The reason for the headlight relay/light energized, was with the light on, pushing the start button would turn the light off, if in fact the light went off, but no starter motor turning, we would prove the problem was in fact the start solenoid. A quick test before we go further, sit on the bike, kick stand up, key on, pull in the clutch and hit the start button--NOTHING ?? Next operate the kill switch several times, try again -still nothing?

Well it is that time of day. First I would find the connector from the right side switches/key switch, prior to 2015, Kawasaki wasn't that anal for making their non waterproof connectors safe from the elements. It is possible to have corroded a few connections. Someone is going to need to dig up the testing key switch electrical drawing. Some guys take the kill switch apart, why do that when a ohm meter or continuity tester can accomplish the same thing. FYI some guys use the kill switch every time they stop the bike, not a good idea, oxide can build up on the contacts, it takes in excess of 3 amp to blow away oxide. The key switch is what should be used.
So we are going to prove that we have continuity when pushing the start button and also the same for the kill switch. Next we need that drawing and will key on and make sure we have battery voltage coming to the kill switch-still possible to have an issue at the junction box.
When you are done, post the results.
 

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Junction Box Circuit

View attachment 55590
A. Accessory Fuse 10A
B. Fan Fuse 10A
C. Turn Signal Fuse 10A
D. Horn Fuse 10A
E. Ignition Fuse 10A
F. Headlight Fuse 10A
G. Headlight Relay
H. Headlight Diodes
I. Starter Diode
J. Starter Circuit Relay
K. Interlock Diodes
L. Taillight Fuse 10A


One of my favorite aspects about the EX is, it doesn't have a lot of frills like on board computers or fuel pumps.
But then it seems like something always does
I will come back later and post how to test the relay box using diode test, forward and reverse bias.

Diode it is a device that passes DC current in one direction but blocks current in reverse. FYI I have a series regulator installed and use my brake light to trigger the headlight relay-I no longer recommend this unless you have auxiliary lights that are keyed on all the time, which I have ( Denali Trioptic 2.0)

So electron flow is cathode to anode. An example I use in my brake light trigger circuit, I connect a diode across the start solenoid coil circuit. I have the cathode on the positive side and the anode on the negative side, using a diode that way is called freewheeling or noise suppression. What happens in DC, when you disconnect power from a magnetic coil, you get a collapsing field, which happens to be in reverse polarity, it took me 3 hours of tracing to figure out the headlight relay was pulling in from the collapsing field DC spike of the start solenoid.
So a practical use of a diode, using the drawing below, A is the headlight relay. #2 is from the 3 phase AC, when it is positive going, we get conduction from ground pin 11 through the coil , through to diodes to the positive-going voltage. The next instant in time the contact of A closes, pin #3 is the positive source , electrons now pass from pin 11 ground through the A coil, through the first diode, then left branch through the second diode to pin #1 and the closed side of the contact, which is what we call a latch circuit. At this point you can stall the motor, no AC to pin #2 and the headlight will still be on. [and for some is used to trigger the headlight after installing the Polaris regulator] And we know the instant the start is energized the relay will unlatch.

Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern Diagram

Font Parallel Rectangle Symmetry Slope





OK , several things. We are going to test using diode test, many meters you need to select this function. Your meter should have a common, and volt / ohms socket. Generally the common is black and represents negative, the volt / ohms should be red.

A diode is roughly 0.6 ohms, typically diode test gives a voltage drop across the device, so it may show 0.76 for this diode , the display will show V.

Some readings just won't be, simply because most meters don't have the voltage or capability to measure 2 diodes and a coil in series.

REL--some better meters have this symbol- this is used for measuring ohms, where you have manually selected the lowest range possible, once the low range has been selected, touch your leads together, while together press REL- what this does is like Tare on a weigh scale, it subtracts the value of resistance of your leads, once REL has been pressed, you can then measure , the contact for instance.

Infinity- in diode test or ohms, this is a value like when you have your meter set to ohms and you leads are not in contact with anything , as in open circuit. Some meters will say out of range or may display a symbol , possibly 1

Forward bias is, your black negative lead on the cathode and your red positive lead on the anode

Reverse bias is, your black negative lead on the anode and your red positive lead on the cathode.

When looking at a diode, typically there is a black bar near one end, that end is the cathode. For electron flow I always fixed this in my mind that it was from negative to positive, electron flow is towards the arrow. - to +.


First Forward Bias
neg pin #13 to red pin # 8 =
neg pin #13 to red pin # 9 =
neg pin #12 to red pin # 11 =
neg pin #12 to red pin # 14 = These last 3 should give a distinct 0.56 to 0.76 reading
neg pin #16 to red pin # 14 =
neg pin #15 to red pin # 14 =

Reverse Bias

pos pin #13 to black pin # 8 = All should be infinity
pos pin #13 to black pin # 9 =
pos pin #12 to black pin # 11 =
pos pin #12 to black pin # 14 =
pos pin #16 to black pin # 14 =
pos pin #15 to black pin # 14 =

Last we will tackle the headlight relay using ohms. pin #7 to pin # 8 = should be infinity, post your results!
 

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A good ignition switch will show continuity in the "on" position between
BR-W-GY
+
BL-R
+
W/BK-W/G

In the "park" position will have continuity between
W-R
+
W/BK-W/G
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
i replaced the fuse in the starter solenoid and now the bike runs i don't understand why you think the headlights coming on with the key isn't supposed to happen.
 

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i replaced the fuse in the starter solenoid and now the bike runs i don't understand why you think the headlights coming on with the key isn't supposed to happen.
It's not supposed to happen.
Is it in fact happening?
The headlight doesn't come on until the bike has started.
 

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A brief reply. The starter drops the headlight during starting. If the headlight comes on keying on, something is wrong. Try purposely stalling the bike, hit the start button, does the light go out? It is suppose to.

OOPs forgot a defect in Kawasaki wiring on all 650, KLR, X300, Versys 650-and now the EX-500
 

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unless you have a light switch like ours do. then all bets are off. View attachment 55593
Check my edited post above.
Could you explain the purpose of the headlight relay in regard to the drawing. One phase from the stator goes to the junction box and is rectified and pulls the headlight relay in once the alternator is outputing power, stalling the bike, a quick hit of the start button should knock the headlight off permanently as long as the key switch is on and the engine isn't running. Also there is a flaw in the circuit, the original purpose of this was to alert the rider that something was wrong with the charging circuit. It is possible to have the relay come on from a collapsing magnetic field happening when keying on. I have a fix for that, a free wheeling diode across the start solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
But yes the headlight comes on with the key then shuts off when I start the bike. After starting the headlight works
 

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  • This in reference to the headlight relay and function. My whole career it was important to pay attention to detail. That drawing says US Canada and Australia. I know that the UK has many restrictions when it cones to lighting.
  • I have helped people in Italy, Russia, Portugal, England.
  • So that drawing may not be the correct drawing, however I would expect @bpe wouldn't make a mistake like that. I don't have the key switch drawing , or headlight electrical drawing, but again , that circuit has been on numerous Kawasaki bikes. I had a 07 Versys, now a 2015.
  • So like I said. That circuit was meant to automatically turn the headlight on and also to turn it off if a stall occured while the starter is engaged.
  • If like I said, that is the correct drawing, AND the headlight comes on the instant the key switch turns on, I am not doubting that is what is happening, what I am saying, if the bike is wired exactly to that drawing, electrically that is impossible to happen.
  • Post the drawings and I can go through it, it won't be the first time mistakes were made.
 

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Check my edited post above.
Could you explain the purpose of the headlight relay in regard to the drawing.
yeah quite simple there is no headlight relay in the junction box (only the starter relay) and no wire from the alternator is fitted. the light switch is duel fed from both a permanent live feed (for the side lights) and an ignition feed (for the headlight), side light can be on when ignition is off (depending on switch position) headlight on when ignition is on whether the engine is running or not. (depending on switch position) because it is not a legal requirement to have the headlight on while riding,
you will find if you look there is not just one diagram for the EX but about 6 covering different regions and generations.

from the conversation above I deducted the OP's bike has a faulty headlight relay that is fused on possibly could have happened at the same time his solenoid fused shut by wrongly connected wires, as long as his headlight works when the engine is running and is off when the ignition is off I can't see any immediate issues, it isn't like he is likely to leave the bike with the ignition on and engine stood. long enough to drain the battery. we manage quite well with that system.
 
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