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I did a post and something I absolutely hate is parts changing suggestions, only to find after listening to suggestions I bought $$$$ the part suggested, and found it was not the issue after purchasing.
I did a post, what I am asking is anyone with a meter and a fully charged new battery, do a simple post with my test below. That would enable anyone in the world to save not only $$$$ but time spent looking for a problem that happens to be easily proven as a bad battery or not a bad battery.


I am going to throw something out there. You state multiple batteries, fully charged, 10 seconds.
I don't care how you do it. You need a accurate digital meter.
A fully charged battery is roughly 6 hours using a proper charger.
#1 disconnect the charger and wait 10 minutes
#2 get your meter and measure the VDC of the battery
#3 NO KEY ON -I don't care how you do it, connect your meter to the battery, jump the starter for 5 seconds, measuring VDC wait 3 minutes
#4 same, no key on, jump starter for 5 seconds reading VDC during cranking wait 3 minutes
#5 same as #4 ---
Post your readings.
One further test, before trying this wait 5 minutes, post the VDC before trying this--key on, meter on battery, 3 seconds of cranking measure VDC while cranking.
Post your results
I agree with some of the above posts as possibly something else is wrong, however I have seen two identical new batteries fail.

If you post and wish further input by me you need to send a PM-rarely on this forum anymore.

One Additional test before removing the battery tender, measure the VDC with the tender connected and post that as well-it may explain the state of the battery under test.


The above was my post in the other thread. The reason for no key on and just the starter motor, I have found that depending on the issue, possibly the ignition isn't working, therefore the current is less, or possibly a headlight is on causing a increase of current. One thing I know is it is rare for a starter motor to fail, it draws one of the highest currents and is similar to a battery tester once you connect a DC meter across the battery.
By using a on time -5 seconds we have standardized all these test by each individual . Using just the starter.
On my 2015 Versys 650 I measured 50 amp at 11.3 to 11.7 VDC, however I was using 10 second run times, I have since revised my test to 5 seconds and doing it 3 times. Recording the VDC measured while cranking and before you do the next test .


I am hoping others will chime in here with you model year and model along with your test. The before volts DC establishes several things, one is the accuracy of your meter,
this could be a really quick answer to someone seeking help when their bike won't start . Just copy the link.

At one time I was in the same position,took my battery to a auto parts store, the guy said it was questionable, guess what, a new battery didn't fix the problem. What a waste of time!

Thanks to all that post
 
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