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Discussion Starter #1
Can’t seem to locate all safety switches. I’ve tried lifting the kickstand pulling in the clutch and checked the main fuse. What else should I look for? Also it’s an 06 Kawasaki ninja 500r.
 

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sorry do not understand the question. no where near enough info. to even think of some sort of answer.
I will say this though when the bike is in neutral and green light is on. ALL safety switches are disabled.
they are not your problem. whatever it is.
 

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when I create a connection on the solenoid it turns over but when I hit the start button I get nothing. The bike is in neutral. I replaced the fuse and I put a new battery in.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I also tried pulling in the clutch and lifting the kickstand. I know there’s more safety switches than that but I don’t know where to locate them.
 

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how long have you had the bike. you have turned that big red switch to on of course. apart from that
 

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Discussion Starter #7
And I’ve only had the bike for a couple weeks was told it sat for 2 years. Checked all the wiring and it looks good.
 

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have you heard it running. when was the last time it ran, did you get it as a non runner or was it running when you got it. what checks have you done. what work have you done to it. all relevant information you need to disclose if not it like trying to pin a tail on a donkey when you can't see the donkey. IE pure guess work.

edit. I repeat if the bike is in neutral green light on NONE of the safety are relevant as they are ALL disabled when the bike is in neutral they will not stop the bike from starting.
 

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Non running when I got it. I changed the fuse put a new battery in and checked everything to make sure it was all hooked up. I changed the radiator but that has nothing to do with that. I have new spark plugs I have to put in but that’s it. Also going to do an oil change I know that it sat for 2 years without running before I got it.
 

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right that's a start. so you obtained a dead bike that has not run for 2years. you have done a quick scan over the bike to see if everything is connected but nothing happens. ok now about you, are you new to bikes is this your first bike.
in other words a complete newbie. or are you experienced know your way round bikes. understand how they work. and have the tools to do any job that may be required. this could be very important later on.
you have to understand things and this may not be a quick fix. dead bikes with unknown origins are notorious for hidden issues. repairing them is not easy akin to building a wall you start with the materials and the first brick.
 

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I will say this though when the bike is in neutral and green light is on. ALL safety switches are disabled.
they are not your problem. whatever it is.
Putting the bike in neutral wont bypass a faulty switch.
I also tried pulling in the clutch and lifting the kickstand.
Most of the time this wont bypass a faulty switch either. ( I could elaborate on this)
edit. I repeat if the bike is in neutral green light on NONE of the safety are relevant as they are ALL disabled when the bike is in neutral they will not stop the bike from starting.
This is incorrect information
 

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Putting the bike in neutral wont bypass a faulty switch.
Most of the time this wont bypass a faulty switch either. ( I could elaborate on this)
This is incorrect information
please do elaborate I would love to hear this. as the power for the lock out system comes from the neutral light circuit.
 

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^ Maybe later. Elaboration could be redundant. Would at least want to see if the OP responds, and if so, with what.
In the mean time if you want you could run some tests on your bike to see where your info is inaccurate. Giving you a chance to retract or edit for accuracy.
 

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no need to test anything the gen 1 is stock and works as it should. the gen 2 cruiser has no lock out system I took it all off when slim lining the wiring it no longer resembles what Kawasaki built.
 

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The correct way to check your clutch switch.

Check for continuity between the spade connectors. With the switch removed and in this position (not upside down) and the button not pushed in you should have continuity between A and C, and no where else.


Then with this button pushed in you should have continuity between A and B, and no where else.



Also you haven't eliminated the start button it's self as a possible culprit.
 

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sorry @bpe I fail to see where the info is incorrect. the position of the clutch switch is immaterial if the bike is in neutral. nor is the kickstand switch. only when the bike is in gear does this circuit become operational.

think of a circuit for a bulb with two earth leads. if neither earth lead is attached the bulb won't light. if one of them is connected the bulb lights whether or not the other lead is connected.
now put one lead through a two way switch with two outlets (3earth wires) if any of those outlet wires give path to earth the bulb will light.

in principal the lock out system is just like that. it is a (ignition on) permanent feed loop incorporating the starter button and the igniter. it only works if the system has a path to earth to complete the circuit.
it does this in one of three ways a direct path to earth through the neutral switch. if that path is closed (in gear) it tries to find another path. (green/yellow) wire. this is where the clutch switch and side stand switch come in.

the clutch switch it a 2 way switch it has three wires black/yellow (bike earth circuit) a pale green (to the side stand) and a green/yellow (second aux earth as above) from the fuse box.
when the clutch lever is pulled in it diverts the green/yellow wire direct to earth down the black/yellow wire. (poles A&C) when the clutch lever is out it diverts the (green yellow) to the pale green (side stand wire) (poles A&B) that is all it does.
the side stand switch is the final path to earth. when it is up the switch is closed and so earths out the green wire. when it is down there is no path to earth (open). it is the only time the bike wont start or run. because there is no path to earth to work the starter or run the engine via the igniter.

to illustrate this this afternoon A got the gen 1 out of winter slumber (a month early) fitted the battery turned on the ignition. bike in neutral pressed the button it turned over as usual (won't start no fuel in it during lay up) I then pulled the connector out of the clutch switch completely (isolating both the clutch switch and the side stand switch) and pressed the starter again same result it tried to start. as I expected.
the only other possibility of it not trying to start would be if the starter button was faulty and not supplying power to activate the solenoid but that is a different scenario and nothing to do with the lock out system.

I am sorry but I fail to see where any info I gave was incorrect. if the bike is in neutral indicator bulb lit it should start whether or not the clutch is in or out or whether the side stand is up or down.
 

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^ Well first off lets correct the latest bit of misinformation.
the clutch switch it a 2 way switch it has three wires black/yellow (bike earth circuit) a pale green (to the side stand) and a green/yellow (second aux earth as above) from the fuse box.
The color codes for the clutch switch are:
Black
Black/Red
Black/Yellow

Now, with the bike in neutral, key on
20210411_090131_LI.jpg

and the clutch switch disconnected.
Neutral light is on, bike will not start under this scenario .
The neutral light indicates when the bike is in neutral, it can not be used to diagnose the other safety switches.
I do not know how to make it any clearer.


I'm gonna need a pay raise o_O
 

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ok I can see it now. you say potato we say tomato. you call it an EX500/Ninja500 we call it a GPZ500s. all the same bike, obviously not.
info I provided is correct for our version of the bike. and mine did turn over with the clutch switch connector unplugged
so obviously there are major electrical differences between variants apart from light switches running lights and different coloured wires. my mistake I assumed they were all similar in function. perhaps leave it there I think. hot air is best left in the tyres.
 

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^ Fair enough, I'll check the wiring diagrams of the EX and GPZ and see if I can find where the difference is in the lock out system.
 
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