not fuel but electrical, IMHO. Don't be messin' with the carbs.

Possibilities? Battery or solenoid loose connection, loose terminals? Corroded contacts in starter switch? Clutch switch? Sidestand switch? Intermittent electrical can be tricky to isolate. I'm sure others will offer input, too.

In the meantime, search the forum electrical section for further info.

 

The sidestand switch has nothing to do with the starter circuit.

The clutch and neutral safety switches, along with the kill switch, will disconnect the starter button's circuit, making it completely dead. If you get absolutely nothing whatsoever when pushing the starter button, those switches and the contacts for the button itself are where I would start looking. Either having the clutch pulled or the bike in neutral will allow the starter circuit to operate. If you haven't already, make sure you're doing both of those things to see if that helps. For the starter circuit, the neutral switch runs through the clutch switch, so a disconnection there can break the circuit to both safety switches (if you unplug the left control from the harness, the starter button will be dead like you have the kill switch turned off).

If there were a problem with the solenoid ("starter relay") circuit, you should still get the starter circuit relay in the junction box clicking (though you may not hear it in average conditions). If the battery is low, you'll often get the relay activating then quickly deactivating, repeatedly, causing a sort of buzzing sound from the fast clicking on and off.

 

^+1 on checking the switches first. I would start with the clutch switch, it is probably the one that will wear out first, at least it was on my bike. Since it is constantly being operated while riding. You could take it off and take it apart, look for signs of excessive wear. If it has a lot of wear it is pretty cheap to replace from the dealer. If it doesn't look like a lot of wear, you could try cleaning the inside of it and see if that helps. If that doesn't work, just move on the to other safety switches, and the starter button its self. You can check your switches by hooking an ohm meter to the wires, and see if it has continuity when the switch is closed.

 

No offense.... what’s your routine for starting the machine?

If it started, just fine, cold, slight enricher, no clutch pull, and trans in neutral, with sidestand up, then good. Other switches work.

Neutral, side stand up, no clutch pull. Start button. It fires. Good
In gear, side stand up, clutch pulled, no start. Clutch switch.
That simple.

O_E_M

 

The thing about a switch displaying intermittent problems, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.