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Discussion Starter #1
So earlier this week i layed the bike down practicing emergency stops. I was completely stopped got to far forward on the bike and lost my balance. It didn't go down hard but it did go down. some gas came out from around the tank cap.

I picked it up. everything seemed OK. just a bent rear brake pedal.

On the ride home today i stop to pick up some food and when i get back on my bike it didn't want to start. When it finally did kick over the idle is really low. But it didn't sound like it was running on just one cylinder. On top of that the bike stalled 3 times on the way home (about a block).

I don't know whats wrong. I think it might have something to do with the CA emissions (i think its a CA bike because it has the 2 hoses that exit the front of the tank). I've heard that getting to much fuel in the vapor canister can cause a vacuum in the tank.

I didn't think to open the gas cap on the way home. i may try it tomorrow.

Am i way of base here? also if it is the evap canister how do i fix it?

its a 2001 with 6k miles on it. The carbs where just cleaned by the dealer a few weeks ago.
Thanks
 

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I don't know about the cannisters but it may only be that laying it down got the float stuck, starving the engine from it's precious gas. Try to tap on the carbs with a screwdriver, it may fix it :)
 

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^ that sounds like a very likely possibility. Open the tank too, as the vacuum could have been lost(wording on that could be better). I think I read that somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update:

So the bike was still running crappy this morning. It is defiantly only firing on one cylinder. i checked the float heights by hooking a clear tube to the drains. One side was good. The other side started out good for about 30 seconds then (coinsiding with the engine starting to run rough) the float height started to climb.

I am also getting a steady leak from the clear tube on the bottom of the bike. It looks like it attaches to the carbs but i cant tell until i them off again.

So... is the problem that the float valve is sticking open? If so how do i fix it. I can take the carbs out and clean the valve and the hole that it slides in but this is becoming a recurring problem. Any hints on what i should look for when i have the carbs out.

Also i did try hitting it with a screwdriver. that didn't help.

Thanks
 

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Drain the float bowl to check for water or other impurities. The float level is the first thing
that needs to be checked when tuning your carb. If the level is too high, it can cause a rich
condition, too low and it can cause a lean condition. If it's not set correctly, any other
adjustments you make may have to be redone.
Kawasaki would love to sell you their gauge to check the height. But get a clear hose and
attach it to the carb drain valve at the bottom and tape it up to the side of your carb. Put the
bike on the center stand or otherwise make it level. Use an auxiliary gas can above the carb
so it will continue to dump fuel. Or use the vacuum line and suck on it to open the petcock
valve. Open the carb drain valve. Get a gauge or ruler and measure right where the carb
body meets the float bowl to the level in the hose. Don't move the hose after you open the
drain, or it could cause the reading to be high.
Hopefully you'll see 0.5mm above the base of the carb body, +/-1mm, (only about .08"
variance).If it needs to be adjusted, and the carb is already off the bike, the method in the
factory manual is the easiest way to set the float height. It can also be done without
removing it from the bike.
After disconnecting the gas and draining the fuel out, you'll need to rotate the carb and take
the four screws off the bottom of the float bowl and remove it. Then push the pin out of the
float boss and gently remove the float and float valve. The float valve will be hanging
loosely on the float by a very thin wire that slips over a metal tang on the float. Bending this
tang on the float (not the wire on the float valve), will raise or lower your float level. Just a small bend makes a big difference in the level, so it's best to make minute movements here.
Before bending anything, visually inspect the rubber tip on the float valve and spray some
carb cleaner and compressed air in the valve seat, to make sure nothing is blocking it open.
Also see that the plastic float isn't leaking and filling with gas. Then check the level again
and rebend if needed.
 

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fourflush said:
Update:

So the bike was still running crappy this morning. It is defiantly only firing on one cylinder. i checked the float heights by hooking a clear tube to the drains. One side was good. The other side started out good for about 30 seconds then (coinsiding with the engine starting to run rough) the float height started to climb.

I am also getting a steady leak from the clear tube on the bottom of the bike. It looks like it attaches to the carbs but i cant tell until i them off again.

So... is the problem that the float valve is sticking open? If so how do i fix it. I can take the carbs out and clean the valve and the hole that it slides in but this is becoming a recurring problem. Any hints on what i should look for when i have the carbs out.

Also i did try hitting it with a screwdriver. that didn't help.

Thanks
You problem is not the float setting , but debries blocking the float valve in that carb open. You'll need to remove the carbs and back flush the line to the tank. Be sure to fit an inline filter while your at it.

Care to wager Four flusher? Back flush the line over a clean piece of paper and I'll bet you a small slice of rubber comes out. The petcock nipple is as sharp as a scalpel and cuts off slices of rubber from the insides of the hose. Thats what you will find.

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well i backfushed the line and didnt see anything on the paper. But that doesnt mean there wasnt anything in there cause i had been cleaning the carbs before i read your post FOG.

And when i put it all back together it seemed to run fine so I guess that chalks another one up in the win column for FOG.

No i have a different problem. I took the bike out for a test drive and rode all over the surface streets no problem. Then i took it up for a little stretch on the highway. after a short (maybe 1 min) of riding at 80mph. the bike lost power. Hard to tell but it seemed like i lost a cylinder again. When i pulled off the highway it idled rough for a few seconds then came back.

I tired to reproduce the problem at a lower speed. i kept the bike and 7k rpms and sure enough it starts to die after a little bit of riding.

I dont know, maybe i got the float levels wrong. I didnt check them (via the clear tube method) when i got back because the bike was to hot and i'm tired.

The float level on one of the carbs is hard to set. When i have the carb off the bike and upside down. i try to rest the float on top of the valve to take my measurement. One of the floats doesnt bounce back if its compressed. Ie. if i press down on the float at all it just stays in the new position. the other carb it rebounds back to a neutral position.

Thanks for everybodies help so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Another wrap up post.

The problem i was having with the bike not wanting to hold over 7k rpms was caused by me not tightining the clamp on the hose between the carb and the cylinder head (there are two clamps i never lossened the one on the engine side but you have to loses the carb side to take them off).

I had not been tightening them cause I was pulling the carb on and off all day as i worked on it and just forgot on final assembly.

Tightened the clamps down took her out on the free way and she ran fine.
 

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my bike does the same thing, before it stalled after about 1-2 miles out, but it has done it about 5-10 miles out a couple times aswell. i layed it down last year. *wishes he was a mechanic/had knowledge of carbs/bikes*
 
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