This will probably be all real obvious for the veterans but thought this may be useful for 500 newbies.
Got the blue '05 last November on a salvage title... damage to front right:
1) fairing chunk missing... to be ordered
2) Fairing frame a bit out of whack... used a vise & added some whack
3) brake grip bent... replaced
4) brake light always on
After work, snow melting fast, I decided to look at the front brake electrical switch presuming it was damaged from the crash into the truck in St Louis (previous owner story).
I removed the 2 allen head cap screws from the brake-clamp, then unscrewed the lock-washered phillips screw attaching the switch underneath the brake reservoir.
I unplugged the switch- Brake light stayed full on! ??
Tested the continuity (ohm meter from a 1970's Heathkit!). Worked fine... full open (infinite ohms = off, brake handle released position) & full closed (zero ohms = on, brake hadle pulled).
Put it all back together... brake light still stuck on. Hmmm... ???
All the damage had been to the front right.
Well... figured the rear brake had to have a switch too. (I know... obvious!)
So stepped on the footbrake a couple of times but the brake light stayed stuck on.
Reached down by hand yanking the pedal up-down-left-right... the brake light went off briefly then back on. Ohhh... aha!
Short version result... there's a 3" long, maybe 3/4" thick black plastic threaded switch, behind the frame just below where the right ankle would be. It has a little plunger tilting mostly down but a little forward. A hooked spring attaches the plunger to the brake pedal. The upper end of the switch has a plastic sheath covering where the wiring attaches, not far under the rear brake reservoir.
Near the plunger there a 1"x1" little metal tab welded to the frame. The tab has a [U] cutout where the switch fits in. The switch has a hex-shaped plastic bit that can be turned by hand to
1) lower the switch body... relaxing the pull on the plunger, which means that the brake light won't come on until you press the pedal down farther.
2) raise the switch body, tightening the pull on the plunger so the light comes on sooner.
My brake light was "stuck" on because the switch was too high, so the spring pulled the plunger enough to keep the brake light (almost) always on. YIPPEE... a no $$ adjustment fixed the problem.
Got the blue '05 last November on a salvage title... damage to front right:
1) fairing chunk missing... to be ordered
2) Fairing frame a bit out of whack... used a vise & added some whack
3) brake grip bent... replaced
4) brake light always on
After work, snow melting fast, I decided to look at the front brake electrical switch presuming it was damaged from the crash into the truck in St Louis (previous owner story).
I removed the 2 allen head cap screws from the brake-clamp, then unscrewed the lock-washered phillips screw attaching the switch underneath the brake reservoir.
I unplugged the switch- Brake light stayed full on! ??
Tested the continuity (ohm meter from a 1970's Heathkit!). Worked fine... full open (infinite ohms = off, brake handle released position) & full closed (zero ohms = on, brake hadle pulled).
Put it all back together... brake light still stuck on. Hmmm... ???
All the damage had been to the front right.
Well... figured the rear brake had to have a switch too. (I know... obvious!)
So stepped on the footbrake a couple of times but the brake light stayed stuck on.
Reached down by hand yanking the pedal up-down-left-right... the brake light went off briefly then back on. Ohhh... aha!
Short version result... there's a 3" long, maybe 3/4" thick black plastic threaded switch, behind the frame just below where the right ankle would be. It has a little plunger tilting mostly down but a little forward. A hooked spring attaches the plunger to the brake pedal. The upper end of the switch has a plastic sheath covering where the wiring attaches, not far under the rear brake reservoir.
Near the plunger there a 1"x1" little metal tab welded to the frame. The tab has a [U] cutout where the switch fits in. The switch has a hex-shaped plastic bit that can be turned by hand to
1) lower the switch body... relaxing the pull on the plunger, which means that the brake light won't come on until you press the pedal down farther.
2) raise the switch body, tightening the pull on the plunger so the light comes on sooner.
My brake light was "stuck" on because the switch was too high, so the spring pulled the plunger enough to keep the brake light (almost) always on. YIPPEE... a no $$ adjustment fixed the problem.