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This is a follow-up to a list of posts that I used to perform both the removal of Evaporative Emission Control System and subsequently the removal of the PAIR system.
(I did this in the reverse order which in hindsight I should not have done as I will explain later)

For California model EX500's this hardware is significantly cumbersome and by doing these modifications I guarantee nothing other than the ability to clean up the space for future maintenance and possibly avoid the failure of at least one of these semi redundant systems.
(My opinion as well as some other fellow members)

For this job you'll need :

- Familiarity with the EX500 or the desire and ability to delve this forum by using the search function and reading in full relevant threads - fairing removal, gas tank removal, airbox, etc
------------ Consider this the price you pay for the time spent by experienced users who contribute to this forum! That is why I am making this post : Pay-It-Forward

- Some basic tools (IMO the kawi-toolbag does not count) but will suffice, a drill, and a vice
- Hardware : This requires toddlamp's PAIR removal kit w/optional kawi gaskets which I used http://www.ex-500.com/index.php/topic,35066.0.html Store http://shopping.lamponedesigns.com/
------------ This thread has a helpful documentation by ex500husband http://www.ex-500.com/index.php/topic,35455.0.html
- Some additional hardware including : A tapered rubber cork stopper (or a blanking grommet, unsure of size) for the airbox, an additional rubber nipple like the one supplied in the PAIR kit for the gas tank vent, and
------------ 18g wire, electrical tape (these are optional, you may have an alternative) for venting the gas tank - like replacing your tank or just the gas cap for venting the gas fumes $$$

- Also of help was this thread http://www.ex-500.com/index.php/topic,831.0.html Which outlined some of the emissions removal and gas tank mod for venting

To Be Continued
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Thanks for being patient!

So again, the point of all this is to take your bike from: Image 1

By removing all of: Image 2

And making it look like: Image 3

I could of, at this point, very easily done the PAIR mod and in the future I can access the top end of the motor by only removing a few side fairing screws and the gas tank. Everything is much more accessible!

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Image 4 depicts the PAIR resting in place after removal. If you choose to do the PAIR removal only then that blue vacuum line in the image goes into the right side carb vacuum line. This then omits the nipple that toddlamp includes in his PAIR removal kit.
 

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In my documentation I have left out the PAIR removal as it is nearly the same between models. By doing this mod and the PAIR removal at the same time you can access the reed valves MUCH more easily... x1000 as you can see in the images below

Image 5 in the upper right in a red mask you can see that the gas tank support has an additional bracket tack welded below it which will need to be drilled out or cut off. I chose to drill it out which I later thought was a bad idea as I probably weakening it a bit. ::)
 

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In Image 7 Is the red hose[/color] and where it enters the airbox on the lower right side. This can be pried out of the airbox easily.

As I did not have a blanking grommet handy but I had some tapered rubber corks I used one to plug the 90' grommet that the hose connects to. Therefor terminating my first connection and plugging up a leaky airbox.

Image 8 shows the 90' grommet that you will remove from the hose.

Image 9 - 10 attempt to show the grommet plugged and after re-installation.
 

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In order to remove the remainder of the vapor system you will need to remove the front gas tank dampener support.

Image 11 start by removing the two bolts that mount the vapor canister, it will be easier to disassemble this while the tank dampener support is still mounted to the frame.

Image 12 shows the two bolts, 7mm I believe, that mount the dampener support to the frame. Save these bolts as you will have to reinstall this part once it has been modified.

Image 13 show the four tack welds that I drilled out. Alternatively I believe it would have been a better idea to cut the metal just above those tacks and file down the bracket. 12 or a dozen?
 

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Finally! The last few steps!

Image 14 Here there was a ziptie that secured the charcoal canister to its mount. Both should be removed. I could not document the bolt location but it is easy to find. You'll have to disconnect the Pink[/color] and Green[/color] hoses at this point, which will then allow you to remove the entire system. All you'll have left to do is plug the right side carb with the nipple that toddlamp supplied, remove the rest of the mounting brackets to clean up the space, and mod the gas tank for vapor removal. I also took this time to ziptie some of the electrical wires together to tidy up in there.

Image 15 The charcoal canister out of its bracket. The blue hose which was removed from the right side carb which will not get capped.

Image 16 In the center-left there is another 7mm bolt, by removing the bolt you can remove these two pipes that ran between the charcoal canister and the gas tank.

Image 17 Here is the underside of the gas tank. With the 18g wire I wrapped a few loops about an inch from the bottom and then continued to wrap that in much wider loops, much like a spring, until I reached the end of the tube. I then wrapped this in electrical tape and was able to bend it any shape I desired, which gave me the ability to place the end of the hose over the top of the gas tank. It's barely noticeable but other users have made other mods which you could look up.
 

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After doing all this work I then proceeded to do both the FOG mod as well as the recommended carb sync and probably should have done a valve adjustment as well.

All of these things are well documented on this site and clearly this is a good opportunity to get your hands dirty... filthy fucking dirty 8)

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to my growth!
 

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I, too, live in California with a likewise emissions equipped EX (now all removed).
For the sake of making sure people know what the two tubes that come out of the gas tank actually do, the one you are capping off vents positive pressure from the tank, and the other one that you are leaving open vents negative pressure (vacuum). However, in my experience, you do not need to route the vent hose above the top of the tank. I have mine vented right next to the steerer tube, and after 6,000 miles, I have had no issues with fuel escaping. I have it routed where it is to protect it primarily from dirt and rain. It was also recommended to me by FOG to stuff an airstone in the end, that kind that would go in a fish tank.
One more thing I would recommend doing with everything out while you are down there is routing the main wiring harness in a way that allows easier removal of the valve cover (I had to replace my entire harness, so I figured why not).
 

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Thanks Saabnut! Glad to see comments in here!

I'm also not completed happy with the way I resolved the gas tank, and you made a good point about rain... I might as well have put a funnel out there!
I think I'll try and replace the gas cap in the future...
 

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Getting a 49 state gas cap would certainly help. Currently, the way my setup is working, I'm having no problems with the negative pressure hose doing its job. As for positive pressure venting, on particularly warm days, after I have come to a stop and turned off the engine, I will notice fuel weeping from the key hole on the gas cap. Not enough to drip down the tank, just enough to make the cap a tad damp. When this is the case, I usually just open the cap then close it, releasing the small amount of built up pressure.
I do plan on swapping everything over to a 49 state setup this summer, so I'll check back in with my progress then.
 

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Easy to see the difference in gas tanks, Cal tanks have two extra hose connections, right front, easy to see, no problem.
But what's the visual difference in gas caps? Anyone have pictures showing the difference?

Thanks!
 
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