Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI, was wondering if anyone else experienced this cracking of the ears off the tail section that uses a pin on the center cowl and tongue/groove on the side cover to secure the side cover of the EX500 gen2. This is the second one that started to crack, I caught it and am in the process of doing a MEK/Legos repair which has worked well for me in the past.

I replaced the original panel that was the equivelent of someone missing their front teeth with a nice colour matched donor side panel. This one lasted years and thousands of miles but is starting to crack, so with a dremel I cleaned up the inside of the damage, cut some re-inforcing lego pieces and am in the process of turning some more legos into a slurry to repair the damage. No pictures sorry.

Back in the day, I remember the vaunted Honda F2 that I was looking at instead of my beloved Interceptor missing the same area on the tail section.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
sigh) Yes, I have that on my 2004. Seems to be a stress point or something is wrong in the alignment of the rest of the long sidecover. I had to rebuild the groove with a piece of aluminum flashing cut out to catch the pin and a bit of jbweld...t'was hard to get the seam between the centre-piece and sidecover looking right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi, yeh, i was particular on the alignement too! there is no wiggle room and the bike was not crashed or abused before. Its the same side too, totally stupid really. Thanks for the reply, this is the stuff we have to put up with riding older bikes whose main mechanical bits are brillant right? Its just a small beauty mark on a beautiful woman no?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,957 Posts
Yeah, of my cracks caused by nothing more than just riding, this stress point is on my bikes list also.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ridervfr

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts
hi, I'm quite interested in this, I believe the issue is caused by poor (well inferior fit) fitted panels. for instance the tail light bracket is not that robust and can be out of line or bent, or where the side panels screw into the frame or how the seat pushes in the top side rails or even the tank rear mount rubber worn or crushed slightly altering the rake of the tank.
all leading to the panels being under stress when fitted.
when I changed the rear plastics of the gen 1 to gen 2 kit. it took a day to get them perfect like the pieces of a jigsaw. on and off until they fit well plus a load of tweaking of brackets enlarged holes and rubber washers,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,832 Posts
On the Gen1s, it is rare indeed to find side panels with all three tabs intact. Mine are, but only because I found the broken tabs still in the rubber donuts. I made up a mix of black ABS cement and fiberglass "milled fibers" and bonded them back on, where they remain. The Gen1's problem is that the screw at the bottom is a hard fixing point, while the tank and tailsection are supposedly floating to some degree. Since tab breakage is so endemic, I suspect that the tail section of the frame itself relaxes/stretches from rider/passenger load and increaes the distance between the mounting points.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I could see it if you had an aftermarket seat on the bike, all I have is a nice seat cover. Its good looking, I start a new job tomorrow, (actually re-hired) otherwise I would snap some pictures. We will see how the repair holds up, not a heavy person either, 170 pounds and use a tail bag with bungees for my lunch box. Its not even a stress crack, just a bad design on that cowl pin to slot on side cover.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts
sorry I thought yours was a gen 2. and that cowl pin I assume is the one on the tail to side panel. and yes those broken tabs on the gen 1 are a bind (one of the reasons I swapped them for gen 2) but it's not because the btm mount is solid (because I changed mine to rubber mounts but they still broke) rather it's because those tabs are so tight they break while attempting to remove them as the panel distorts while being removed.
and yeah (I can see now it's a gen 2) and the cracks but those panels are not aligned correctly whether it's because they are cracked or something else is un clear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
the right side has more of a step than the left side true. nothing crazy though, looking at the two vfrs i have, they are a slight step on one side or the other. The side thats cracked (second time) has less of an alignment issue than the right side. You could take a pair a smooth jawed pliers and start bending the mounting brackets but I dont think your really going to accomplish anything. Just one of those things that you have to live with unfortunately, I thought for sure when I installed the new plastic my trouble (so called) was over.
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Fuel tank Vehicle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,832 Posts
I would pull the crack back together, get some ABS sheet from plastic supply or Amazon, and apply a backing plate to hold it together. Once it is back where it belongs, I would try to find the source of the stress and see what can be done about it. Moving or bending mounts or shimming the mounts to meet the plastic where it is can help eliminate future cracks. I imagine that factory tolerances on frame brackets were pretty loose.
 
  • Like
Reactions: yorkie

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would pull the crack back together, get some ABS sheet from plastic supply or Amazon, and apply a backing plate to hold it together. Once it is back where it belongs, I would try to find the source of the stress and see what can be done about it. Moving or bending mounts or shimming the mounts to meet the plastic where it is can help eliminate future cracks. I imagine that factory tolerances on frame brackets were pretty loose.
Its done, I used MEK and black legos, just like I have been doing to repair stress cracks on my Hondas. I make the slury or glue and use other legos as backing plates, I also prep the inside roughing it up with a small die grinder. To be honest, just looking at corner that has the issue, its just between two plastic fixing tabs, there are no brackets around there. I have to think outside the box, a little finger tuning goes a long way.

It is a goofy way of removing body work, you have to pull from the back. Once you know the trick, well its old hat right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Just like mine, ridervfr... The seam is a little smaller now after working at it but I begin to wonder if heating the fairing wouldn't somehow make it want to be in the right place.
Nice bike, by the way!
Vehicle registration plate Automotive lighting Vehicle Automotive tail & brake light Automotive tire
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts
hi guys . my apologies for copying and butchering your photos it's just for illustration purposes only.
but the areas marked by circles and joined by the lines should be equal and even, there not so one or both adjoining panels are twisted or out of line. probably the reason for the stress cracks.
I would add a shot of mine at the rear to compere with but I can't photo mine it has a rack and big box obscuring it.
Fuel tank Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Tire
Vehicle Hood Automotive lighting Light Motor vehicle

Tire Wheel Fuel tank White Vehicle


yes I know the front is gen 1 but the lines around the tank are the same.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yorkie your right on the upper fairing being cocked on the right side! I am afraid if I finger tune the tab on the petrol tank, I am gona break off the tab then I will be EFFED. The bike was downed by me back in 07 on the left side, the right side was the previous owner. You have a very good eye! It does not affect the alignment of the rear cowl though, right? the front is independent of the rear side covers. Aligning body work on bikes is tedious and its like working with plaster on a wall, you have to know when to walk away from it. (I use 5 minute mud) anyway, I have even gaps on the rear cowl unlike the picture you sent with the rear. I thought I recognized the blue bike, its from across the pond. LOL. I will give a periodic update how the repair holds up. Peace
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts
yes it is and you have a good memory. I did say it took me all day to get it right, lol some of those screws just unscrew themselves if I whistle they have been on and off so many times,,
of course on face value the front cowl is not connected to the rear. so if the front stay is bent this will be out of alignment.

on it's own it only affect the front as you say. But if the front stay is straight and the gap is not right it just could be the tank that is on crooked either the front donuts or the tank rear mount squashed then it's the tank that is out of line.
in that scenario the being out of line affects not only the front but the front of the side panels and the seat fit as these are all connected to the tank. then taking it further if the front of the side panels are out so will the rear of the side panel and in turn the rear section.
you can tweak the brackets a bit or fit self adhesive rubber washers on the inside even drilling the holes 1mm bigger can make a difference.
it just takes an inordinate amount of time to get it right. the benefit is no rattles no squeaks. and no stress cracks.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top