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Yes pretty much, Except some systems behave better than others. and four piston setups don't have the sliding pins to foul up. The best new Radial mounted four(or more) piston ones are the best.
Prolly the one thing that is common is pushing dirty pistons back into the caliper. Depending what type of dust seals are used, this can or not be a problem.

FOG
 

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Interesting way of bleeding the front brakes, I might try it sometime. I prefer never to mess with disconnecting the brake line if they aren't broke or imminently breaking. One thing that should be noted for anyone new to brake work, is that brake fluid is a very corrosive substance and will take the paint off of near anything given enough time.
 

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Alright, I messed this up despite your instructions.

I had one of the pistons clamped and was pumping the brake lever to push out the other piston. However I went too far and the second piston was pushed out all the way, when this happened all the brake fluid inside came out (over my jeans). So I put the piston back and crammed it in (without pouring in more brake fluid in the, which I'm guessing was a mistake) and pumped the break lever to try again. Now neither will move, I'm guessing its because the chamber behind them is now empty. Is there a faster way of filling up the caliper then squeezing that damn brake lever for 80 freakin hours?

*edit
Alright, managed to get them both out, guess all it takes is time.
 

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forgive possibly the most newbie question, but, I am assuming that the rear caliper would be done in the same fashion? (still waiting for my clymer book to get here)

Great breakdown FOG, thanks!
 

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yttfdyvt said:
Alright, I messed this up despite your instructions.

I had one of the pistons clamped and was pumping the brake lever to push out the other piston. However I went too far and the second piston was pushed out all the way, when this happened all the brake fluid inside came out (over my jeans). So I put the piston back and crammed it in (without pouring in more brake fluid in the, which I'm guessing was a mistake) and pumped the break lever to try again. Now neither will move, I'm guessing its because the chamber behind them is now empty. Is there a faster way of filling up the caliper then squeezing that damn brake lever for 80 freakin hours?

*edit
Alright, managed to get them both out, guess all it takes is time.
Yeah, About the same time it take to write a "help!" to the forum.

FOG
 

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did you bench bleed the brake MC? Also I put teflon tape on the bleeder threads as they tend to leak air while bleeding.
 

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If you were Bleeding properly there would always be positive internal pressure on the bleeder nipple and thus the only thing it should leak is the internal air or fluid.

FOG
 

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FOG, thanks for the cookbook instructions. I'm a newb to working on brakes and there are a few details that aren't clear to me, if you'd be so kind as to enlighten me.

"Remove caliper disassemble and clean it."
"Clean and re grease the sliding pins."
...what do you use to clean the caliper and pins? I'm guessing "brake parts cleaner", but since it's not in the list of items in your posting, I thought I would check. What kind of grease do you use on the pins?

What do you use to polish the pistons? Is that what the steel wool is for? Use any chemicals along with that?

Thanks again. I'm gonna give this a try in the next weekend or two.
 

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yakfish said:
FOG, thanks for the cookbook instructions. I'm a newb to working on brakes and there are a few details that aren't clear to me, if you'd be so kind as to enlighten me.

"Remove caliper disassemble and clean it."
"Clean and re grease the sliding pins."
...what do you use to clean the caliper and pins? I'm guessing "brake parts cleaner", but since it's not in the list of items in your posting, I thought I would check. What kind of grease do you use on the pins?

Ans: any sort of cleaner will work fine I like those super one Like Greqased lightning or the castrol purple stuff, nasty but effective. Any sort of grease will do , this is just a mechanical set of pins.

What do you use to polish the pistons? Is that what the steel wool is for? Use any chemicals along with that?

Yes you can use the steel wool if you need it. Caution here only brake fluid for the pistons and all the rubber parts.


Thanks again. I'm gonna give this a try in the next weekend or two.
 

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Here's a rookie question.

I think my brakes work great, but I noticed that on the front brake, the rubber cap is off the nozzle, and on the rear brake it is on the nozzle. Does it matter if it is on or off? Should it just go on to keep dirt out?
 

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it's a good idea to keep the bleeder nozzle covered, so dirt doesn't collect in the hole.
 

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I think I am in deep now. My front brakes lever not pushing anything the brake fluid to the front caliper. I tried filling the caliper with some fluid, but that doesnt help. Help FOG!!
 

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It's because you have air in the MC piston. Try loosening the banjo fitting on the MC and pump it . FLuid should flow in a few pumps then tighten the fitting and bleed the caliper . Never let the MC fluid level go too low or it will happen again.

FOG
 

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Has anybody done his procedure with pictures ?

It sounds straight forward but the fact is i do not know what most of the parts mentioned are so just reading it still leaves me a little puzzled. I had a pad swap coming up soon and would like to do this. Does anyone know of an exploded view image of the caliper so I can learn? Also what do you use to re-oil stuff? Particular brand or type i should look for ?
 

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Thanks zeroaffiliation!

I used your procedures but only needed to bleed the rear brakes. I finally found the AMPRO one-man bleeder kit which really simplified things.

Vv-[/color]
 

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Went to do a front pad change and realised that the large piston has siezed! couldnt move it at all in or out, even when pumping the lever. the pistons were in bad shape, corrosion all over them and the seals looked terrible.

Bought a different caliper from ebay, should be here in the next few days, during which time i will doing a full rebuild of the caliper.

Once i have reconditioned the new caliper, i will be wanting to recondition the current caliper. Does anyone have any tips on removing this sieze piston? like i say it wont move at all, even under pressure.

Cheers,

Dale
 
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