Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
21 - 37 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Went to do a front pad change and realised that the large piston has siezed! couldnt move it at all in or out, even when pumping the lever. the pistons were in bad shape, corrosion all over them and the seals looked terrible.

Bought a different caliper from ebay, should be here in the next few days, during which time i will doing a full rebuild of the caliper.

Once i have reconditioned the new caliper, i will be wanting to recondition the current caliper. Does anyone have any tips on removing this sieze piston? like i say it wont move at all, even under pressure.

Cheers,

Dale
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,300 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Drill and tap a hole through the bottom of the piston in the center. The use a screw in that hole to push against the bottom of the caliper thus pushing out the piston. You'll need a new one anyway.

FOG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,114 Posts
hey fog, is there a problem for using dot 3 vs 4 vs 5 brake fluid? Whats the difference?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,300 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
3 or 4 are fine do not use 5 as it'd silicon and only for Harley's.

FOG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Hi Fog,

are these the rotors ok for the front EBC Pro-Lite Contour Brake Rotors - Kawasaki EX500??? and can i use these for the front and stock for the back?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,107 Posts
Thanks for posting this Fog!

Just posting my experience changing my front brakes for the first time, as a reference for anyone planning a brake pad replacement who has not done this before.

Despite what the maintenance schedule says my seals were fine and I did not need to replace. BTW just laying a large(thick) screw driver shaft across/in front of both the brake cylinders at once will allow them to come most of the way out, without coming all the way out, and eliminates the need to clamp them while pumping the lever. The brace for the pad holds the shaft against the cylinders.

Used EBC HH (high friction) metallic brake pads and added a stainless steel braided line. The braided line offers an improvement in brake feel and the pads seem to offer more consistent grip and are less grabby than the OEM pads. It looks like the OEM pads were metallic but did not have the copper content of the EBC pads. The brake lever now requires slightly less force and has slightly less travel. Before this I found there was initially less bite when applying the brakes and as I applied pressure there was a more sudden onset of brake grab. Overall general improvement in brake feel - they are easier to modulate.

The brake line I got was made up for me and was ~1/2 the price of buying a brand name line off of EBay, might be something to consider if you can find someone who can do this for you.

Before I did this my main concern was bleeding the brakes. This turned out to be a piece of cake. I used speed bleeders but I think you could just cover the bleeder hole with a thumb and use it as a one way valve - let out air on squeeze of lever, block the bleeder with the lever held down and let it out to draw in fluid from the reservoir. This took about 2 hours but I'm sure I could do it in less than half that now. Bleeding only took ~2min.

To anyone doing their brake pads follow Fog's advice and remove, clean the cylinders. Aerosol brake cleaner works great and lube the sliders. The sliders will most likely start to stick and the cylinders will build up crap before the pads start to wear out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Hate to bring a dead thread back alive but this is what helped me today. Replaced the rear tire and had an issue with rear brake not operating correctly, rear break seemed to be sticking not allowing the tire to rotate freely. I did not remove the caliper because I did not think it would matter for just replacing the rear tire. Anyways, I did remove the rear caliper after reading this thread and figured I need to lube the pins on the caliper. I should have done a complete rebuild of the caliper but going to wait until I get the 2nd manual (Ex-500 specific).

The specific indications were the tire hard to rotate and when depressing the rear brake pedal the rotor would actually move and the pedal would go all the way down, along with the rotor moving when depressing the rear brake lever. Lubing the pins fixed it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Was just going to replace my pads, when I saw how dirty everything I decided to take it all off and really clean everything. No crack, everything is polished, rubbed pistons down with new fluid, but I'm have a real issue getting the dust valve and the piston sleeves back in. One of my screws for getting the top of the MC is stripped, so I'm gonna go get a special bit to get that out today along with a replacement screw. Outside of that, my concern is that the dust valves seen to big for the groove they're supposed to fit in. Also, I can't get them back in, any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

scuba
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,300 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Why do you feel this Sticky thread is the place to post your brake problem. It contributes nothing to the How to Idea of having stickies.

FOG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Might do this so I can paint the Calipers while im at it!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,052 Posts
not looking forward to doing this. But it needs to be done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I already sent FOG an email but I would like other opinions too. Who has done this on the rear caliper, and if so how did you get it off without disconnecting the break line first? The line is right in the way of the lower bolt that holds the caliper on and I even used a short Allen wrench but had no luck going behind it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Soo time to make fun of the newbie...doing this on my rear brakes. I started before reading the wiki and started with disconnecting my brake line..I know. Now im pretty sure there is air in the line because im getting no pressure to the caliper at all. Words?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,300 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
Servicing caliper a MUST!!!!

Go herehttp://www.ex-500.com/37-how-s-fyi/143-complete-front-caliper-service.html

Read and do or pay the price ,you will warp your new disc.

FOG:surprise::nerd:
 
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top