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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I have coolant leaking at the pump. I am pretty sure that where it is leaking is at the mechanical seal that presses against the impeller. My question is: if I am replacing the mechanical seal, should I replace the oil seal with the spring on it too or is it probably good?

Here is a picture of the mechanical seal. I think it is leaking at the back (the side shown) that presses against the metal opposite the impeller on the middle plate...
54190


And the other side (same part),
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You can resurface the seal by polishing the carbon surface on a flat sheet of 400 paper.

fog
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do you mean, sand the side that presses against the back of the impeller? I think that the side of the seal that presses against the metal opposite the impeller looks ditieriorated and pitted. Which side do I sand?
 

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yes the side that faces the impeller, thats where to water seal & leaks take place. the other side in the oil seal , as long as the lip fits securely on the drive shaft it OK. the surface of it does nothing

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was wondering about the other side of the mechanical seal that seats against the middle plate, not the oil seal. I think my oil seal is fine, I was just thinking that the mechanical water seal looked pitted on the backside of it (the side that sits in against the middle plate...)
 

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To avoid the RTV messy nightmare, order the gaskets involved as well. Approx $30 all 2 gaskets and 2 seals.
 

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Fog once said the only place you need gaskets are the cylinder head and jug base gasket. the rest RTV will do. personally I always use the proper gaskets. my choice. a quick job is often very short lived.
your bike your choice.
 

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RTV works fine ,mess is only by the user. Clean both surfaces then a thin coat of RTV wait till it skins over the assemble. Any squeeze out can then be wiped off. No mess
Fog
 

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I'd go with a factory gasket over RTV any time. No chance of error of any kind (missing a spot, overapplication, etc)
 

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The seals are so cheap now just slam new ones in. On this forum, I am a voice of one crying in the wilderness, "Prepare the way for 3M 8008 Gasket Adhesive." Use far less. Excess rolls off with your fingers when set up. It will be the highest tech part on your bike.
 

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"...On this forum, I am a voice of one crying in the wilderness, "Prepare the way for 3M 8008 Gasket Adhesive."
Use far less. Excess rolls off with your fingers when set up. It will be the highest tech part on your bike.
Sorry, I missed earlier threads on use of weatherstrip adhesive;
please explain. Is it a factory approved replacement for engine gaskets?
 

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please no! weather strip adhesive is just what the name implies, glue for gaskets, not gasket replacement.' If you want to eliminate gaskets use RTV . trust me it works and save you almost a $100 per engine rebuild, over factory gaskets.

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It think I was getting my wires crossed a little bit. It thought that the mechanical seal was just the black in the center with the spring. After looking at the part diagrams closer, I saw that it actually includes the metal flange behind it. I was kind of confused that it pulled right out without any force, it looks like I'll need to drive that metal flange out...

Sorry for the confusion 😃

And yes FOG, I decided to try the RTV...
 
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