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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Crashed my 2007 500r bike and the coolant leaked out a hole (caused by the crash) on the side of the bike. I believe the coolant reservoir’s hose go down into this part. Do anyone have any idea what I’m looking at concerning having this fixed?
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At the very least you need a new water pump cover.
 

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yeah. you have taken out the water pump outer case. and depending on any further damage possibly the whole pump..
won't know what broken until it is stripped. minimum required outer case possibly the impellor as well.
if you can get away with just the outer cover you will need new gaskets and O rings for the transfer pipe also obtain the mechanical seal for reassembly of the unit daft not to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, and can you restate that last part about the mechanical seal for the reassembly of ???
 

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yeah sure. behind the impellor is a spring loaded seal. ceramic on one side rubber on the other. it stops coolant reaching the inner case. and is a common issue for leaking coolant out of the bottom case weep hole.
normally if it's fine and not leaking there is nothing to worry about. but it can go at any time. so it makes sense to change it if you have to strip the water pump down.
part no #490630002

Head White Human body Jaw Font


OH, and don't forget the impellor is a left hand thread.
 

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And, as far as water pump covers go, any cover from an LTD454, EN 500 (Vulcan) and any year EX500 (1987-2009) or ER-5 will fit. Only the finish is different (polished or black).
 
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He also need a impeller drive shaft as his went with the impellar

FOG
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
yeah sure. behind the impellor is a spring loaded seal. ceramic on one side rubber on the other. it stops coolant reaching the inner case. and is a common issue for leaking coolant out of the bottom case weep hole.
normally if it's fine and not leaking there is nothing to worry about. but it can go at any time. so it makes sense to change it if you have to strip the water pump down.
part no #490630002

View attachment 54974

OH, and don't forget the impellor is a left hand thread.
Hey, so I’m hearing replacing the mechanical seal may require a special tool. Is this true?
 

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Hey, so I’m hearing replacing the mechanical seal may require a special tool. Is this true?
well in the manual it says you do. but I did two of them without any. ok so it has to be pressed into the case but there are dozens of ways to do that TBH it's so long ago I did one I.ve forgot what with but it must have been with ordinary tools because that is all I have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well in the manual it says you do. but I did two of them without any. ok so it has to be pressed into the case but there are dozens of ways to do that TBH it's so long ago I did one I.ve forgot what with but it must have been with ordinary tools because that is all I have.
Yeah I saw where one guy I think used PVC pipe?
 

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@po18guy
May be able to elaborate on using a vice.
 

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Can be tapped in (carefully) with a mallet, supporting the seal housing on wood or similar soft surface. Can also use an appropriate socket in a vise to press the seal into place. IIRC, the socket should not match the outer flange diameter of the seal, but the diameter of the seal's recess in the seal plate. If your socket will just slip into the seal's recess, it is just right. Slightly larger than that will not be a problem, but you do not want to apply force to the flange of the seal as it will bend and the. seal will not fully seat in the recess.

In a vise, you would have 1) wood against one jaw of the vise as a cushion. 2) Seal housing against the wood, outside facing away from the wood. 3) the seal and 4) the socket. Start the seal into place, then adjust the socket so that it is centered on the seal. Then, tighten the vise very slowly, watching the progress. If the seal starts to tilt, stop! Straighten it out or drive it back out carefully and start over. Technically, you could use a large C clamp if you have no vise. Pressure is pressure. Just make certain that the engine side of the housing is cushioned, or you may bugger the oil seal cavity and the gasket sealing surface.

Then, you make a post that says "I replaced the water pumps seal and now it's leaking oil"

That would be not good.
 
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And, as far as water pump covers go, any cover from an LTD454, EN 500 (Vulcan) and any year EX500 (1987-2009) or ER-5 will fit. Only the finish is different (polished or black).
This is nice. Always wanted a polished case somewhere on the motor. Now I know where and which one. Thanks for this.
 

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If you're really desperate, you can use an M8 bolt, nut and two "fender washers." Make sure the bolt has rthreads all the way to the head, as you do not want the nut bottoming out on the shank of the bolt before the seal is fully seated. The bolt and one washer start from the engine side of the housing, through the hole. This supports the back side of the housing and gives the bolt a surface to pull from. Slip the seal (in its proper orientation) over the bolt on the outside of the housing, with the second washer over it and the nut capping everything up. Then two spanners/wrenches will pull it into place. Stop turning when the resistance suddenly increases - that generally means the seal is seated. A quick visual check and you are ready to go.
 
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