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Discussion Starter #161 (Edited)
Apex_4 said:
isnt this the same filter found in the tank reserve "straws"?
smart idea:)
no, not the same but the media material is identical, possibly a finer mesh, dunno, never compared them together.
 

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Just a heads up, you can get the fuel filter # 49019-1085 on partzilla.com for $4.71. That includes shipping.
Ronayers is $11, bike bandit is $12, so I went with partzilla.
 

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Discussion Starter #163
nearly tripled in price in 3 years. LOL , still worth every penny.
 

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ducatiman said:
nearly tripled in price in 3 years. LOL , still worth every penny.
I bought 2 the first time I heard U and Florida talking about them! Great buy!!
 

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When duc first came up with this idea you couldnt even get them. There was a 2 month wait. Thats why when i could get them again i bought 4 of them, still have two in a pack unused here. Theyre like gold. Lol
 

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FloridaEX500 said:
When duc first came up with this idea you couldnt even get them. There was a 2 month wait. Thats why when i could get them again i bought 4 of them, still have two in a pack unused here. Theyre like gold. Lol
I should have increased my purchase to 4 but the first one I put in is still in great shape, slightly discolored but works great!
 

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FloridaEX500 said:
Mine too. Slightly discolored, slightly warped But doing its job like day 1.
LOL. There's a joke in there somewhere.

They are not that hard to get up here for some reason. It is money well spent. It's still inconceivable that Kawi just didn't install theses in the first place.


Sent from Motorcycle.com App[/color]
 

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So quick question.
I see posts of photos from what looks like the carbs still being in the bike. But my problem is that the tubing that goes on the plastic T is well... stuck on.
Can I just take the boots off of the carbs and tilt the carbs or do I have to remove the cables?
 

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PickledCommando said:
So quick question.
I see posts of photos from what looks like the carbs still being in the bike. But my problem is that the tubing that goes on the plastic T is well... stuck on.
Can I just take the boots off of the carbs and tilt the carbs or do I have to remove the cables?
No. Just remove the carbs from the boots and tilt them up. Remove the battery to give you more play with the carb boots.
 

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Carefully Cut the fuel line off the long way with an exacto knife or equivalent. Thatll get it off without damaging the t tube. Then replace it. If its that hard its no good anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #174 (Edited)
This discolored rail filter is the factory OEM from my 1995 Ducati

18 years and its still in there doing its job. I have yet to find debris (though i cheated, my tank has been treated with POR 15)

Buying multiples is unnecessary, FWIW. The material will not degrade. Ya only need one.
 

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I had a severely rusted tank and it is now newly coated with POR-15 (96 hour curing time is finished in 6 hours). I still have reservations regarding the coating having reached 100% surface area inside the tank.

I plan to install a secondary fuel filter this afternoon and am undecided on which type would best suit my application (true in-line or this mesh pouch into the rail).

Being prudent, and assuming some sort of debris will find its way free and somehow make it past the mesh in the petcock, is it true that the in-line type filters filter more efficiently?

If the mesh pouch in the rail install is comparable to the petcock mesh, what advantage does it offer (other than picking up rubber shards from the ID of the fuel line)?

Wouldn't installing the in-line filter as close to the carb rail as possible be a legitimate option?

Is it 100% unnecessary to install both filters? (3 including the petcock mesh)
  • 1st filter (petcock): first line of defense, catches big particles and/or tears
  • 2nd filter (in-line, double nipple): second defense, eliminates nearly all contaminants, even very small
  • 3rd filter (stock, mesh pouch into rail): final defense, catching any rubber shards from hose behind in-line filter

Thanks in advance
 

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No one has e er reported any problems whatsoever using the alternative method.

Isn't that a good enough reason right there to use it? Any more or different filters are just not necessary. Why bother?
 

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Yes, I realize it's a very viable option and has seen overwhelming success.

However, I rightfully assume that the majority of users have a tank in better condition than mine. I'm just playing devil's advocate, not trying to discount the alternative filtering method.

That being said:
Do you have any input regarding the pure filtering performance of the two types?
Or any warnings to using both filters back-to-back? Though it is likely unnecessary.
 

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Two filters in a row is simply too restrictive. The canister filter is restrictive within itself and there's a good chance the fuel line will end up with undesirable routing that will further restrict.

If your tank inside is ugly then there are steps you can take to correct that. But I really don't think there is any need for two filters, no. My advice would be to stick with what already has been proven.
 

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FloridaEX500 said:
Two filters in a row is simply too restrictive. The canister filter is restrictive within itself and there's a good chance the fuel line will end up with undesirable routing that will further restrict.

If your tank inside is ugly then there are steps you can take to correct that. But I really don't think there is any need for two filters, no. My advice would be to stick with what already has been proven.
Agreed. I originally had a K&N filter and had brutal fuel starvation problems. The carb rail filter is the end all and be all option for our EX's.
 

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Discussion Starter #180
tee_higg said:
I had a severely rusted tank and it is now newly coated with POR-15 (96 hour curing time is finished in 6 hours). I still have reservations regarding the coating having reached 100% surface area inside the tank.
Did you follow the directions for each step of the POR process? You chemically cleaned and removed the rust with Marine Clean in Step 1. You chemically etched the tank in Step 2 with Metal Ready. You took great pain to completely dry the tank (did you use a blow dryer?) before applying product. You "rolled" the tank with product to cover the inside adequately then drained excess product from tank in Step 3....you allowed 96 hour cure time....in other words IF you precisely followed the directions...you have no worries.

And the 1 rail filter will do.

As we say in NY....doanworryboudit.
 
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